Not that I know of.. when I had my Montesa I fitted dimpled clutch plates… they did make it a bit less switch like which is the opposite of what I’m looking for…!
My 2013 clutch has always felt a bit too soft.... there's no positive 'spring' at the bite point....we've got a 2014 4T as well and that's totally different.... almost too 'switch' like...not quite as bad as some Montesa 4RT but not far off... I've fitted new clutch springs, slave & master cylinder piston kits. The clutch pack is well within the limit. Its almost like it needs slightly stiffer springs... cant find any though...
If I put a thin washer under the head of the bolts on the clutch pack would this make the clutch a bit stiffer and a bit more positive?
ive drilled out the original pin and made a new one to better suit the dimensions on the gear change shaft....all fitted and seems to index the gears better. time will tell!
I’ve got two flats on the guide pin… I’m assuming this is wear?… there’s quite a bit of free play in the gear change shaft linkage which appears to limit the movement for selecting 1st and 4th. Neutral to 2nd and into 3rd seems ok… think I might turn up a new pin with a closer fit.
I’m not sure if there is. ‘Fail safe in the box … a weld wouldn’t be good for that… anyway mines all welded now, I’ll try and get some gaskets tomorrow and hopefully I’ll be good to go!
thanks guys!... I'll take a look later in the week....any tips for holding the clutch basket while I undo the nut without the correct holding tool??... I remember breaking a clutch basket pillar on a Montesa a few years ago trying to loosen the nut...not cheap so would prefer to avoid that again!
Hi guys, hoping someone can advise.....2013 4t, gear lever shaft has lost its normal 'stops' both up & down the gears. I can still select gears but the lever & shaft continue to move in both directions. It doesnt stop in its usual 'detent' positions and wont return to its 'neutral' position after changing gear...Its internal so its an engine out job but can I get to the gear selector mechanism or the gearbox itself without dismantling the engine first?...any thoughts as to the problem?
As totty79 said check the visible items that he’s listed above but also unless he has receipts, then also factor in brakes pads front and rear, Caliper piston sets front and rear, rear brake master cylinder and clutch and front brake master cylinder.... I haven't a bike yet that I haven’t that I had to change them in the first year
I did try all the swapping all the above parts when mine played up, fuel tank, injector, ecu, loom, temp sensor and a few times over but chasing an intermittent fault is tricky...
I think you need to try and borrow one first.. it’s a lot to pay out for if it’s not the issue. If the bike came from a dealer have a chat with them and see if they can help?
Mine was a 2006/7 bike but I have heard of newer bikes with ecu faults .. I think a new ecu is around £400... I think I paid about £250 for the one that was fitted on mine to test. The ecu is part of the throttle body. It’s all a bit tight but it does come out.
Just for your info , mine used to cough every now and again .. eventually it stopped and no amount of kicking would get it to start. It would start if I disconnected the fuel line to the injector and manually fed the injector but it would run very rich as if ‘choke’ was on.. hence why I later replaced the temp sensor.
i got the ecu ‘read’ and it said there was a temp fault... so despite already fitting a new temp sender I fitted another from a good bike... still wouldn’t start or if it did it took 20-30 kicks and wouldn’t keep running. A loom was fitted from a donor bike and we thought that had fixed it but 24 hrs later the bike once again refused to start... ecu was swapped again (this had already been done a few times previously) and that sorted it.. I bought the 2nd ecu that was fitted and the donor bike had a programmable ecu fitted at a later date.
If it’s ‘coughing’ at the same time as when the fan kicks in then I’d be checking the fan.
Run the bike up to get it warm, disconnect the fan and run it again, if it doesn’t cough or cut out with the fan disconnected then try a new fan motor or just borrow one from another bike to double check. 4rt fans come on pretty quick so don’t leave it running too long without a fan connected.
The ‘cheapest’ check would be checking for corrosion in all the connectors and check for good clean earth points..I’d then be looking for corrosion ( and therefore high resistance) in the loom earth wires.
Under the tank, there was on earlier bikes, a yellow connection block with a bundle of earth wires coming to one point so check this. You can prise open the block to get inside to see the earth rail and connectors.
From experience I would also be checking from the capacitor back into the loom for black wire corrosion.. you’ll have to remove the loom and unwrap it to be sure. It looks like a nightmare getting it out but once the tank and Throttle body/ecu is off it doesn’t take too long.
From the capacitor the earth wire extends back into the loom by about 12” then it joins into a ‘crimp’ connector with other loom earths from the rear part of the loom.. These earths then go forward to the yellow block under the tank where earths from the forward part of the loom all come together. You’ll need to get to this lower crimp to be sure that any ‘black wire corrosion’ from the capacitor hasn’t got past this point. Cut back the insulation on the capacitor earth until you find good clean copper, cut off and replace any that’s gone black. If it’s gone past the crimp point then just keep cutting until you get good copper and replace as necessary. Personally I’d solder new wire in rather than add anymore connection blocks. Don’t forget to heat shrink over the joints. If you do have black wire corrosion then I would probably replace the capacitor... from memory the genuine ones aren't that expensive (£40 ish I think) or I expect someone on here will know the values and you could buy from a electrical component supplier.
There is also a temp sender in the radiator. You could try replacing this...Again I think they are about £25...On non ECU bikes the radiator Temp sender acts like a switch when the rad gets to temp to switch the fan on, however, on the 4rt it sends a signal to the ecu that then switches the fan on via the relay so the relay could be giving a high load?.. again try and borrow a relay to try or just buy one?
After this, if it still coughs and dies I’d be trying to borrow an ECU to try.
I spent a weekend re-polishing a 4rt engine case’s and tank after a ‘mate’ did me a favour and sprayed neat TRF while we waited for our turn at the bike wash!
I just use hot soapy water and various sized kitchen pan brushes and a tooth brush to clean...Luckily we can hose wash off the lumps at the practice woods so I can avoid power washing at home..
I suppose it could be the fan motor drawing excessive current ?
You could either borrow another fan or just park a bike next to yours and wire the slave fan into your loom and see if your bike still dies with the slave fan... obviously your fan won’t be working so don’t run the bike for too long!
beta 4T clutch adjustment
in Beta
Posted
Not that I know of.. when I had my Montesa I fitted dimpled clutch plates… they did make it a bit less switch like which is the opposite of what I’m looking for…!