wayneniner

not sure this warrants a new topic..but here goes: Do I need to run race gas in 14,15,16 Evo 2T (250 or 300)? In my 07 Rev 3, I need to run at least 1:1 race gas(110)/premium(91) or I will get the knocking after the motor gets hot...lately I've been running 2 parts race gas to 1 part premium-no problems. (70:1 oil FYI) I am thinking of upgrading to a newer Evo(14,15,16) and wondering if the newer bikes still need race gas? I would like to use premium only..race gas around here costs around $12/gallon. Bonus Questions: also, out of the 14,15,16 years of the Evo 2T 300(or 250), is there a year I should avoid or go for? Do the Evos(14,15,16) still have the magnesium side case that corrodes? I am guessing the stator issues that I've read about the Rev3 having has been fixed with the newer Evos?

I ended up getting an air bubble underneath the band on accident...I think this helped plenty(went into the groove nicely..with a little work from a blunt wide tipped flat head to help seat it in groove). It was impossible to get rid of the air under the band so I left it as is and installed the tire.... I'll take your word for it that it disappears. (it's holding air so even if bubble is still present, not a big deal)

just a quick thanks for the tips/advice and words of encouragement. I cleaned the rim(wire brush and simple green), lubed the spokes, tightened the spokes...installed the tire. I ended up using a new rim band with the built in valve. Genius. Never done a tubeless tire before but the built in valve had to make my life easier. Installing the rim band was the hardest part of the whole process. I used "Slime" for lubing up the band and that also sealed any leaks under the band/spokes, and the sides that sit in the channel. (this was recommended by lewisport) I went with a Dunlop due to price... it went on pretty easily with soap water. Maybe I am getting better at installing tires but this went on very easily. The tire beader tool helped...not sure how I would of got the tire inflated without this helpful tool. Damn...that POP is scary. Glad I didn't have my finger in the wrong spot...wear goggles. I didn't(goggle) and got some residual slime shot into my eye when bead "locked". After all is said and done--easy job. No need to seal rim with "Sikaflex"/etc. Just a new rim band, some slime and patience while installing everything. After being hit with $1 wire brush, simple green and about 15 minutes: After a few rides:

Not sure how well these photos will help ...but here they are: The old "milky" oil: Fresh ATF:

anybody have a pic of how ATF and coolant mixed together look like? (after it's been mixed up in crank case)...does it mix together well? or will it seperate after drained? I checked my oil today and it looked different.... kind of creamy compared to the clear dark red of fresh ATF. I am not sure how coolant and ATF look like when mixed together in a gear box. Does it make the gear oil look like it has a bunch of tiny whitish bubbles?(frothy? "emulified"?) I was trail riding my bike...(4th,5th 6th gear) for about 40 miles within 2 days. I did forget to turn off my gas for about 3 days. Last time I forgot the gas, I had fuel/gunk coming out the exhaust for a few minutes after I finally got it started. Is it possible for gas to fill cylinder, make it past piston rings into the crankcase(and create odd looking oil)? or classic case of coolant in oil? (I checked my coolant and it was pretty much all the way to the top...added less than 1/2oz to top it off) does it just take a very tiny amount of coolant in ATF to create a milky condition?

you might want to drain the system to make sure there is the correct amount of coolant in bike. if ti's clean, you can re use it. my used beta barely had any coolant in system and had a busted stock impeller. good thing I went thru the basics before riding it....although I've heard these motors can take some abuse.

you can lay the bike on side and check the impeller w/o losing any/much coolant. probably need to burp the cooling system after to make sure air is out.

Should I coat the spoke nipples with oil/grease of some kind? (after I clean them up a bit?)

I am near Houston TX

thanks for the info... the weld makes sense. I was puzzled at what I was looking at. ordered parts.. I will update with outcome.

any chance of holding air?

Overall state of the rim: Little inward protrusion: (outside of rim looks straight...not sure how this would happen) Another angle of protrusion:

so, I got the tire/tube off the wheel... before I ordered the needed parts, I wanted to make sure the wheel is in good enough condition to work with a tubeless system. rim band was in good condition except around the valve area..pretty damn tight and I think there was some adhesive under it or it could of just been dirt mixed with some sticky rubber residue. (will have a better look later in sunlight) all the spoke nipples/screws inside the rim are rusty...still ok? I did spot(visually) and feel (by hand) a couple spots of the rim that were not ideal for a perfect seal of the tire bead.... I will post some pics later. Does the bead area have to be completely flawless or some minor flaws OK? (no cracks or any major damage...just a ham fisted "mechanic" with no patience) I'll post pics a little later when I get a chance. Planning on taking a wire brush to the rim to clean it up a bit.... (edit to add: I am not the ham fisted mechanic....I meant one of the POs)

oh...and anyone want to talk me out of a Dunlop D803 TL? hard to mount? leaky? It's basically $100 for the D803 vs. about $220 for the Michelin(Lite?) or about $200 for the Michelin X11. (these prices include shipping)

from what I've read(including your posts, Nigel)..I will try to do it 'right way' with just patience(cleaning surfaces/etc..a lot of soap) and a new rim strip w/ the built in valve. (ie: no silicone/sealant) If I can't get it right, I will go the silicone route after a few attempts trying to seat strip and tire correctly. yes, I recently picked up a spoke torque wrench...I used to go by ears(that is when motivated enough to mess with spoke maintenance), but I had some frequent buyer points and a coupon code so I picked up this spoke torque wrench: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/731/32034/Tusk-Spoke-Torque-Wrench-Kit?term=spoke+torque+wrench seems pretty quality..not sure it's needed but don't want to overtorque spokes + I have 2 other bikes (honda xrs) that need wheel attention.