wayneniner

not sure this warrants a new topic..but here goes: Do I need to run race gas in 14,15,16 Evo 2T (250 or 300)? In my 07 Rev 3, I need to run at least 1:1 race gas(110)/premium(91) or I will get the knocking after the motor gets hot...lately I've been running 2 parts race gas to 1 part premium-no problems. (70:1 oil FYI) I am thinking of upgrading to a newer Evo(14,15,16) and wondering if the newer bikes still need race gas? I would like to use premium only..race gas around here costs around $12/gallon. Bonus Questions: also, out of the 14,15,16 years of the Evo 2T 300(or 250), is there a year I should avoid or go for? Do the Evos(14,15,16) still have the magnesium side case that corrodes? I am guessing the stator issues that I've read about the Rev3 having has been fixed with the newer Evos?

I ended up getting an air bubble underneath the band on accident...I think this helped plenty(went into the groove nicely..with a little work from a blunt wide tipped flat head to help seat it in groove). It was impossible to get rid of the air under the band so I left it as is and installed the tire.... I'll take your word for it that it disappears. (it's holding air so even if bubble is still present, not a big deal)

just a quick thanks for the tips/advice and words of encouragement. I cleaned the rim(wire brush and simple green), lubed the spokes, tightened the spokes...installed the tire. I ended up using a new rim band with the built in valve. Genius. Never done a tubeless tire before but the built in valve had to make my life easier. Installing the rim band was the hardest part of the whole process. I used "Slime" for lubing up the band and that also sealed any leaks under the band/spokes, and the sides that sit in the channel. (this was recommended by lewisport) I went with a Dunlop due to price... it went on pretty easily with soap water. Maybe I am getting better at installing tires but this went on very easily. The tire beader tool helped...not sure how I would of got the tire inflated without this helpful tool. Damn...that POP is scary. Glad I didn't have my finger in the wrong spot...wear goggles. I didn't(goggle) and got some residual slime shot into my eye when bead "locked". After all is said and done--easy job. No need to seal rim with "Sikaflex"/etc. Just a new rim band, some slime and patience while installing everything. After being hit with $1 wire brush, simple green and about 15 minutes: After a few rides:

Not sure how well these photos will help ...but here they are: The old "milky" oil: Fresh ATF:

anybody have a pic of how ATF and coolant mixed together look like? (after it's been mixed up in crank case)...does it mix together well? or will it seperate after drained? I checked my oil today and it looked different.... kind of creamy compared to the clear dark red of fresh ATF. I am not sure how coolant and ATF look like when mixed together in a gear box. Does it make the gear oil look like it has a bunch of tiny whitish bubbles?(frothy? "emulified"?) I was trail riding my bike...(4th,5th 6th gear) for about 40 miles within 2 days. I did forget to turn off my gas for about 3 days. Last time I forgot the gas, I had fuel/gunk coming out the exhaust for a few minutes after I finally got it started. Is it possible for gas to fill cylinder, make it past piston rings into the crankcase(and create odd looking oil)? or classic case of coolant in oil? (I checked my coolant and it was pretty much all the way to the top...added less than 1/2oz to top it off) does it just take a very tiny amount of coolant in ATF to create a milky condition?

you might want to drain the system to make sure there is the correct amount of coolant in bike. if ti's clean, you can re use it. my used beta barely had any coolant in system and had a busted stock impeller. good thing I went thru the basics before riding it....although I've heard these motors can take some abuse.

you can lay the bike on side and check the impeller w/o losing any/much coolant. probably need to burp the cooling system after to make sure air is out.

Should I coat the spoke nipples with oil/grease of some kind? (after I clean them up a bit?)

I am near Houston TX

thanks for the info... the weld makes sense. I was puzzled at what I was looking at. ordered parts.. I will update with outcome.

any chance of holding air?

Overall state of the rim: Little inward protrusion: (outside of rim looks straight...not sure how this would happen) Another angle of protrusion:

so, I got the tire/tube off the wheel... before I ordered the needed parts, I wanted to make sure the wheel is in good enough condition to work with a tubeless system. rim band was in good condition except around the valve area..pretty damn tight and I think there was some adhesive under it or it could of just been dirt mixed with some sticky rubber residue. (will have a better look later in sunlight) all the spoke nipples/screws inside the rim are rusty...still ok? I did spot(visually) and feel (by hand) a couple spots of the rim that were not ideal for a perfect seal of the tire bead.... I will post some pics later. Does the bead area have to be completely flawless or some minor flaws OK? (no cracks or any major damage...just a ham fisted "mechanic" with no patience) I'll post pics a little later when I get a chance. Planning on taking a wire brush to the rim to clean it up a bit.... (edit to add: I am not the ham fisted mechanic....I meant one of the POs)

oh...and anyone want to talk me out of a Dunlop D803 TL? hard to mount? leaky? It's basically $100 for the D803 vs. about $220 for the Michelin(Lite?) or about $200 for the Michelin X11. (these prices include shipping)

from what I've read(including your posts, Nigel)..I will try to do it 'right way' with just patience(cleaning surfaces/etc..a lot of soap) and a new rim strip w/ the built in valve. (ie: no silicone/sealant) If I can't get it right, I will go the silicone route after a few attempts trying to seat strip and tire correctly. yes, I recently picked up a spoke torque wrench...I used to go by ears(that is when motivated enough to mess with spoke maintenance), but I had some frequent buyer points and a coupon code so I picked up this spoke torque wrench: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/731/32034/Tusk-Spoke-Torque-Wrench-Kit?term=spoke+torque+wrench seems pretty quality..not sure it's needed but don't want to overtorque spokes + I have 2 other bikes (honda xrs) that need wheel attention.

Anybody know the torque spec for the spokes? couldn't find them in the owners manual...

thanks lineaway...new strap/strip/flap will be ordered. so, losing a little air with tubeless tires is normal? how long should it hold for? (what's a slow leak? losing 1 psi/month? what's a fast leak? down 0psi in 3 days?) I have no problem checking pressure before every ride...I do this anyway. (just gauging what's considered fast/slow leak) Should I get one of those bead mounting tubes? (aka "tire beader"...the $40 "tool") http://lewisportusa-com.3dcartstores.com/TIRE-BEEDER_p_1017.html Lastly, I saw this valve stem for $1....it's a Myers TR-412 Rubber Valve Stem.... anybody know if this will work on stock Rev 3 wheel/rim? https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/726/19762/Myers-TR-412-Rubber-Valve-Stems?term=tubeless+valve+stem

The bike I bought has now been thru 2 tubes....didn't know that trials bikes are supposed to come with a tubeless rear, derp. (the PO(or one of the 3 before me) sold me the bike with a tube installed....how should I know? I am just a 32 yo kid The valve is being pulled off the tube(if you didn't already know what this thread was about) So, I want to go back to a tubeless setup. I know that I will need: a tubeless tire an air valve for tubeless tire Tire irons tubeless beader.... Do I need a new "flap"/rim strip? does the rim strip actually help hold air? (in a tube setup, rimstrip is there strictly to protect tube from spoke "nipples" AFAIK) In other words, should I order a new rim strip? Any tips regarding doing this or extra tools/supplies I will need? My main concern is that the last Tubeless Tire that was installed couldn't hold air...meaning the rim was leaking. (thru spokes or elsewhere) AND that is why a tube was installed. the rim looks good, no dents. Lets say there are leaks from the spokes/nipples.... is the cause just old age(2007 rev3)? are the nipples enlarging the holes in the rim? is it the rim strip isn't sealing? (assuming the rim strip is supposed to seal at all) thanks

The white/black wire in the top left corner is the kill switch "positive" in the original connector/harness.... Do I want to take it out of the connector(cut it), splice proper length of wire(if needed), add bullet connector and then attach to the new kill switch positive lead? tap into the wire without removing from original connector? (multimeter probe is pointing to the kill switch ground...kill switch positive is top left corner white/black) Speaking of the original black ground wire in the connector(where probe is pointing to)....do i want to leave that in there? or take out and heat shrink to prevent contact? I do plan on keeping the original connector plugged into the light switch and using the lights/horn.

Ordered a new kill switch: Will I just wire up a new ground wire directly to the ignition coil ground? Is it ok if the new kill switch ground is touching the brown wire's connector/round thing? (blue connector piece simulates where new kill switch ground will be attached to)

I just wanted to confirm with others who have done this "mod" or are familiar with the procedure...I read the Dan Williams document but without pictures I am not %100 confident I understand correctly. Do I want to cut off this round thing, splice proper length of wire, connect another round thing...and then(see below): Mount the new round thing here? (under regulator mounting nut, closest to frame)

what's that black gunk in the water pump area(see pic)? (do you think one of the previous owners painted/coated to prevent corrosion?....is that the stock coating getting worn away?.. other?)

looks to be the hydro clutch cable... looks routed safely. Is that not the stock routing? (07 rev3 270)

any reason not to go with the "metal" impeller? (jitsie kit) I doubt the impeller would break/corrode like the plastic ones...cant think of any negatives except breaking point might now be a expensive or hard to get to part.

it's possible.. most likely both I am hoping this is the case...hoping it is not some kind of sealing type product. *seller said he put engine ice in it...I am sure he did, just not sure where it went. my thoughts exactly..I've never seen a thick coolant. Ordering impeller today... already flushed/rinsed out the cooling a system a few times. Will do it a few more times after I receive the impeller. Oil already changed...kept level "low" 425cc to be able to look for milk/foam etc thru the window. I'll report back after I fix and let it cycle numerous times. thanks again for all advice. more questions to come as I dig into fan issues/electrical