sherpa

has anyone experienced a problem with rocker arm fractures on the 3.2? I have had this happen twice on my 2009 on the intake side.

I have a 3.2 2009, starts fine using the above (Climber) push down slow technique. If the bike has been stalled "hot", the first two rotations should be with the throttle wide open, then closed one kick and she's running. One other thing, my 3.2 does not like to start when pointing down hill. Seems like alot of work to get started, but just like my wife, what a great ride when shes running.

Baldilocks: Do you know what the proper float height should be?

Have a 2012 2.9 in which fuel drips from the over flow vent tube while it is running. I am told this is normal provided it stops dripping when the engine is not running. Has anyone else had this problem? any suggestions to fix, the carb is new and clean.

Sounds like the pilot jet is clogged.

I have a 1980 montesa 349 that needs a new gear shift shaft and a kickstart spring. Anyone know of a parts supplier in the USA that might have these items?

As usual dabster you are correct!

Just an update, after the bike was retrieved I had to rebuild the engine due to being run without oil in the gas. Following completion the test run was still not good. I went back to the original Bing carb and reinspected all the jets and found that the pilot jet although not plugged was restricted. After cleaning out the jet with an equal sized drill bit the bike now runs perfectly. The mikuni did help the problem but it still never ran like I remembered it should, now it does. moral of the story, just because fuel passes through a jet does not mean it is clean, make sure it is the proper opening.

decided to use the top end off another 340 that I've been restoring in order to save a little money putting my stolen bike back in service. I notice that the piston on this bike has no holes drilled in the sides as my other 340 has. Both jugs are identical. Will this make a big difference in performance? What is the purpose of the holes if the motor will run without them?

Placing a 30 mm mikuni round slide on mine seems to have helped, but as the bike was stolen, I never got to try it out in a trial. I now have the bike back (great job Schenectady Police dept) the top end is off and the piston is severely scored as a result of the thieves running the bike on raw gas. When I put it back together I guess I will be at step 1 again. I have a spare exhaust system, so I was thinking of trying that as the bike is apart already. If she runs smooth like a baby I will go back to the original carb to see if the problem comes back.

Dan: Didn't think I needed the contact info, as I have been contacted in the past through TC email. The good news is..... I got it back!! The fine work of Schenectady's finest located it within 24 hrs. Unfortunately the thieves had it long enough to run out of fuel and ran it on raw gas for about a half of a tank. The top end is shot, still checking the bottom, may need a complete overhaul. The bike also suffered some cosmetic damage, fenders (from riding double), the left foot peg (i guess they couldn

Last night someone broke in to my shop and stole my 199B and an 82 XR 500 Honda. I suspect it was a person or persons who know little of trials as there was also a sherco in the shop which was left behind. Must have been the lack of seat. l live in up state NY and I would appreciate it every one would keep a look out for some one try to sell the bike. thank you all very much Pete

Replaced stator, mag seals, no change at all. Replaced carb with a mikuni I had laying around and it made a huge difference, much better but not perfect. Can't seem to find anything wrong with the old carb except that it has always been pron to overflow. Even after replacement of float and needle and seat. Thinking maybe its time for a new carb. Any suggestions for MFG and model would be appreciated. Preferrably something available in the sates. Thanks

Mag seals looked ok, I replaced the stator (I did notice a nick in the windings and a slight blue tint as opposed to the normal copper color). My manual recommends .016 breaker gap and .110-.118 btc on the timing, it does not specify the 340 sherpa only the 350. Are there any other numbers that would work better? Thanks for the help

Martin: It has been suggested that I look at the mag side crank seals. I will have to remove the stator in order to do that, so if I see no evidence of a leak I will replace the stator while I have it appart. Thus far the bike has not had any starting problems associated with the loss of power. Thanks for the info, I will keep you posted.

Gas cap is clean and venting properly, tank is full and petcock is also clean. I was starting to think about ignition and that the problem is temp related. I heard about some people relocating the condenser away from the engine like on the frame next to the secondary coil. Thoughts?

My 199b runs great when first started but as time goes on performance degrades substantially. By the 3rd loop she is knocking and chattering as if running out of fuel. Let the bike sit for a while and the bike gets better. Carb is original rebuilt and is clean, new points and condenser last year. Any suggestions?

In warm weather she takes 2 kicks for the 1st start of the day, then one kick there after. In cold weather about six. I always allow about 5 mins warm up before riding. On the negative side; the motor does tend to flood easier than a two stroke. If the motor has been stalled while pointing down hill, the bike must be turned so that it is level to restart. I have not been able to restart my bike while pointing down hill after a stall. Turning the bike off does not cause an issue for restarting in any condition. I have been told that I can correct this issue with a float adjustment but just have not gotten around to trying it yet, it just doesn

I have an 09 3.2 and I love it! 3.2 offers endless bottom end power, it will climb anything. Tony 27 is correct; the power does come on quickly so you have to learn throttle control. Also you will have to learn how it likes to be started. The handling is the same as the 2.9. The top end is a bit noisy if not properly shimmed and float level is critical. I enjoyed my two strokes but I don

Thanks acodi, thats the bike. I thought I might have dreamed it for a minute.

Sorry guys, you misunderstand me. This was an actual sherpa t scheme that was applied to a 2001 sherco. I saw limited photos when the bikes were made on the cover of a Spanish magazine. The article came to me in an issue of the sherco mail news (I think). I have been unable to find that newsletter as anything to do with the bultaco name seems to have been removed from all past sherco newsletters. I am aware of the 1999 models you speak of; I have one of the 150 limited addition SSDT (not the blue bike) replicas that were produced after Graham Jarvis won the SSDT. The bikes I saw actually had the round sherpa t logo with checkered back ground. Was I just imagining this?

In 2001 Sherco produced a limited amount of 2001 bikes with a Sherpa T graphic marking the end of the use of the thumbs up logo. The bikes were not sold on the open market as far as I am aware. Does anyone know of any photos of these bikes or where one might be able get a decal set with the Sherpa T scheme?

I've been busy riding so I haven

I disassembled everything and measured clearance at the intake side to be .007" and .009" at the exhaust. Looking in the sherco parts catalogue it looks like the dimensions given are not representative of the actual thickness of the shim. The sherco 4.5 i has a standard 2mm deduction to determine actual shim thickness, is there a similar formula for the 3.2.? I don't have a caliper with a small enough tip to fit into the shims recess to check this myself. Or am I reading something wrong? Thanks for the help

Getting ready to adjust the valves on the new bike. Has anyone out there done this yet? Any suggestions, pointers, etc? Is there any particular sized shim that seems to be the norm, or should I wait until after I disassemble and measure the gap before ordering the shims.