sherpa

Charlie, As you know I love the bul's, I

I use a ketchup/mustard container. The kind with the pointed spout. You can by a large one at your local retail store in the barbecue accessory area. stick it in the hole a squeeeeeeze, 450cc in two seconds, its a beautiful thing.

Got a sherpa 340 199b. the crome brake linnings are chipping off. Ive been living with it for quite a few years, but I think I would like to do something about it now. Does anyone know of someone state side that can fix this and possibly improve the design to give better preformance.

Does this clunck sound/feel like it is coming from the top end or the bottom, front or rear of the engine? Have you had anything disassembled lately. Check everything for tightness, before drawing any conclusions.

needed parts for a TL125 2 years ago and the local honda dealer had everything I needed.

Here are two examples. The scupted trophies I think are nice because thay actually have somthing to do with the sport. I made larger ones for 1st place that also serve as paper clip, thumb tack holders etc.

Alot of the organizers in our club (3D) like to make there own trophies. We have one organizer who drills a hole to fit a spark plug in a nice block of wood and makes a nice placard on his home computer. Another organizer made modern art sculptures out of old motorcycle parts. Last year I sculpted little scale model trials sections complete with obsticles and tire tracks for my trials. Different sizes for each class. My trophies although they took several hours to make cost less than $10.00 for the whole event, 20 trophies. They were very well accepted by all. I think I will do it again this year, only improve on the design. Ive seen others that burn placard info onto sticks with poly coating and others that engrave info on small rocks. its all in good spirit and I would much rather have any one of the above than a "real" trophy with a 1970's vintage motocross bike on it. Oh yea... And we also give HO,HO'S out to everyone who rides.

Last year was a particularly wet year in the North East US. We road many gooey trials. One time my wheel did the same thing, turned out I had sucked up a twig that got caught up and made like a dam so the rest of the mud couldn

Haven

I have done both front and rear upgrades on the sherco using both galfer and AJP. Both just bolt on the front using same hardware and master cylinder. The rear can be tricky depending on the type of swing arm you have. Get with your dealer to ensure you get the correct mount bracket.

I have seen and repaired this problem also. The problem "was" that the tank is made of a very flexible material and the adhesive used to bond the mounting boss into a recess in the tank was hard and brittle. When you turned the fuel on and off or applied a load against the valve (falling banging, hitting with your leg, etc) the valve would move causing the tank to flex. When this happened, the adhesive would crack and start to leak. Easily repaired by carefully removing the oval shaped boss from the tank, cleaning, and resealing it using a flexible fuel tank adhesive. On 03 and newer sherco's the valve is now in a different spot on the tank, thus eliminating the possibility of damage. I don't know if Sherco changed the adhesive.

Not a weak tank, but if I sold you the bike, I would not hesitate to make it right for you. I would hope your dealer feels the same. Why not give him a call.

The picture is classic symptom of what Alan has described. Follow his instructions and you will solve your problem.

Perhaps this would be a good topic for further discussion: Aluminum versus steel, different types of corrosion. Fretting, surface, galvanic, exfoliation and others. Everyone likes aluminum because of its lightness. What we fail to realize, are the many, many drawbacks of aluminum. Besides its brittleness, it is also extremely prone to corrosion. We must remember that aluminum parts are usually held together by steal parts. As long as the protective coatings are in place, we're ok. Once the coating is gone, is when the trouble begins. The two dissimilar metals will act as anodes and cathodes, like in a battery. When an electrolyte is introduced, i.e.: water, oil, etc. we get an electrolytic reaction that if left unattended can be catastrophic. Example: Aluminum axle, steel bearing, water ingress = corrosion. The same thing happens when you screw a steel screw into an aluminum frame. Once the anodized coating is worn off the screw, corrosion will occure. Any comments??

I'm in the process of replacing the lower leg on a 99 at this time due to a crack in the same spot. Take my word for it; even if you have to bring it to a machine shop to have it done properly, it will be worth it in the long run. And remember, they

Our club owns 270+ Acres of property. The way we do it, only members are allowed to ride on the property (except during events, which are sanctioned) as all members are considered owners, a lawsuit would be difficult, as in effect, you would be suing yourself. Sanctioned events are covered using AMA recommended insurance companies. We are presently considering guest passes, but have yet to agree on a safe method. If anyone has any ideas, I would love to hear them.

Wayne, not a problem. I'll have to take the pic's first. As far as the zip ties go. I carry spares along with an Allen wrench under the handlebar crash pad. I've drilled the front hole in the fender large enough to accommodate a tight fitting grommet. This way, if I get over my head, or do something stupid, the zip ties will break allowing the fender to pop loose. This doesn

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Without a doubt, the most maintenance free, easyest bike to work on, least amount to operate and last but not least .. the most reliable, is the Sherco. You can try to deny it, but just look around the pits at who is riding and who is tuning and mixing special fuel to make their bikes run better. not prejudice just a mechanic.

Charlie, you nailed it!! I have a Paioli manual and it describes the bracket and even goes so far as to say that there is an o-ring seal that sometimes requires replacement. However, Paioli give no authorization or process to do the job. Further, they give no part info. Paioli recommends that the fork be sent to an "authorized" service center, of wich there are none that I know of in the US. Wayne, I have tried to send you emails three times with no reply. I thought perhaps I was having problems with my email provider, or maybe you were with yours. I will try again, Thanks :santawink:

BIG JOHN: Thanks for the reply. Welding will most likely be the solution. I was hoping to find some one out there who had done the job before, or knew of a Paioli service center in the US. At this point, I don't even know where to go to get the part. Merry Christmas :santa1:

If it is like a sherco, and it most likely is.. there should be no play, that is to say zero. This is with new dog bone bearings and shock bearings. The swing arm bearings, if properly lubed, should last the life of the bike.

If your son's bike is not a sherco "accadamy" bike, it won't have the upgarades. This is the impression I get from the press releases.

Have tried contacting Sherco with this question many times with no reply. I may have a problem with my email. Anyway, I have a 99 bike with a crack in the right fork leg axle bracket, just along where the pinch bolts are. The paioli manual I have gives no instructions as to the repalcement/removal of this item, or wether one is even available. (I know the bracket is removeable, but I dont want to cause more damage, without knowing the correct methods) The whole leg assy is very expensive. Any ideas/suggestions.