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2k will buy you a bike around the 2008/2010 model year; but unless you're lucky and find something that has not been used or has been sorted by the previous owner then you may need to spend up to £500 or so on it to get it up to standard and that's with you doing the work. You need to get clued up on what to look for when buying a second hand trials bike then get on Ebuy and trawl through until you find something .....expect to travel miles to get a good bike or pay more at a localish dealer if you do not do effort. Bikes seem to be selling at a reasonable price now the Brexit feeling is really 'coming home' ...lucky you its a good time to buy, leave it a while longer and you may get one given to you.

The handling was just fine when the last owner tried it. https://youtu.be/gTVoFCP1BLg?t=1m6s

Make sure you oil the filter properly with a water resisting filter oil such as Rock oil or Putoline etc and make sure water can drain out of the bottom of the air box. Use strips of duct tape on the join of the airbox lid to seal it and use reticulated foam in front of the airbox inlet slot to fend off splashing water. Check airbox for splits at back.

When you run it in you would be better off with a semi synthetic oil[there is no need for more oil than 50:1 when doing so] also the throttle slide is normally set open a little so that the bike will idle fast enough and not stall[it is set by the idle screw on the side of the carb. It is common knowledge that you must open the throttle regularly to lubricate the cylinder and piston on a 2 stroke engine if using the motor as a brake.

Clic on this. https://youtu.be/QT7XK4123hI Your carb has fuel flow problems ...probably the pilot jet is blocked or restricted or you have other fuel flow to the carb float bowl problems . There is no balancing pipe if you have a pipe running from 1 breather on the slide tower to the other and they are not vented then that is your problem. Your bike should be running with a 2t oil mix of 80:1 or 12.5 cc of fully synthetic oil to 1 litre of petrol this is not up for question its a don't tell your grandma's[plural]how to suck eggs thing.

Buy fire retarding reticulated foam and cut the foam in a shape that does not touch the muffler and if you are still worrying then use some heat shield in between the foam and the muffler.....basically just use common sense really.

Wire the fan to run all the time ...not much else you can do without custom building a bigger radiator etc and adding cooling fins to the clutch cover

No its hard to find sponsors for Trials competitions in the UK Yes TrialGP is free to spectate in France an EU member as stated by the OP No Greece is not big on trialing No They have money problems similar to the UK's Perhaps this sheds some light on why UK TrialGP is not free to spectate.... an outsiders view https://youtu.be/AlKJPf8btKE

If there is any extra money kicking around the last place it is going is on the NHS,Police and the roads...sorry I got to go with faussy on that.....if it does my hat is going to taste bad.

You are taking life far too seriously. In Europe they have the FIM and can find it a lot easier to get sponsorship because they draw large crowds and get some TV coverage sometimes...this covers the cost of running the events ....because Britain is Great it cannot manage this so the spectators help foot the bill.

He is talking about a TRRS nigel .....GasGas do not sell a 17 Raga rep. All three bikes are TRS's

Its because the UK pays for everything in Europe; according to the majority of Brits .....but do not worry when you leave the EU everything in the UK will be free as there will be so much money in the coffers that the British government will pay to put on the British trialGP and entry will be free ...only a year to wait.

Seems like someone at the NILS factory made a boo boo and loaded the gear oil stickers on the Dot 4 filling lane or other incorrect fluid was labelled gear oil.

You will ....when you use a digital thermometer to find out.

Setting the points can be done with little effort using a 12v battery and a bulb....the moment that the light dims is when the points are set to optimum. Hopefully some one else will be along to reiterate this in a while.

it will be fabulous!..... hope that helps.

www.apriliagenuineparts.co.uk/components-climber-280-1990-1994 try using a search engine like google and put this as a title 'Aprilia climber spare parts' or 'ricambi Aprilia climber' or 'Recambio Aprilia climber' or 'partie Aprilia climber' .......the internet is a library full of everything and the search engine search box is the librarian at the front desk... put in anything you want to ask in the search box eg 'Why do people not use search engines to find information' and then search through the numerous responses you will receive in order to get what you want. A flywheel cover looks cheap @ £217.00

That is how they are unfortunately all you can do is make sure the clutch lever is adjusted correctly to make sure the plates separate enough and put ATF DEXRON III in the gearbox to help..... also make sure the adjustment is correct as in the Jim Snell video on youtube as follows https://youtu.be/G55FU27Z9bU CLIC this

As no one else can be bothered I will answer you If you do not think you will be keeping the bike then find some part used on Ebuy....For the rear tyre Michelin X11.... Dunlop 803 or 803GP and the IRC winner is good in muddy conditions .......the best all rounder is the Michelin and they are more common for sale used On the front the best tyre is a Michelin Any other makes are not proper trials compound tyres for modern competition use but a cheap new tyre is the Pirelli MT43 but grip levels on rocks and stone is not as good as one of the tyres recommended above that is in a worn condition so its not the best choice.

trialspartsusa account by Jim Snell on you tube has video tutorials for certain GasGas stuff and the parts manuals are available at gasgas.es with exploded images to give an idea of what parts are involved ..but there are no Haynes type manuals available.

it is not an odd set up at all ,its designed to be as easy as possible to remove and replace the front wheel........it could not be more simple........if the spindle is threaded and screws into the fork leg then there is a chance of damaged threads while rushing the job spoiling the party and it is slower to get back together ...not what you want hallway through the Scott or SSDT trial. Yes obviously tighten the pinch bolts on the right fork leg [kick start side]to stop the spindle/axle from turning but have the left side pinch bolts loose then remove the end cap by turning it anti clockwise[ normal threads]that is there to stop the spindle from falling out if the pinch bolts were left loose or snapped .

Clic on forums at the top left of the page then scroll down until you get to Beta in the bike specific forums. ....clic on Beta then at the top of that page the Clutch fix should be pinned ...clic on that to open the thread.

Any 75W trials motorcycle gearbox oil. there are plenty of manufacturers around that are well known Putoline ,Silkolene, Rockoil, GRO, ipone,NILS Motul .....if you want something super dooper then you could try Putoline Nano trans GP ....It uses Nanny McPhee technology to increase its retail price. if you want to find out what a top british rider used in your year of bike call up Splatshop [Sherco Specialists]and ask what they use in the gearbox....... they sell and ride Sherco's so any info is from the organ grinder.

The BakRak adapter is tested to 650kg british and 300kg TUV German so it appears that the weak link is the tow bar nose weight not the BakRak adapter.

No but I do know from experience that if a piece of metal keeps being rocked back and forth that usually something is going to give and a failure occur. Buy a set of plastic bobbins with tie down straps attached at Halfords from the bicycle rack accessories section then trap them under the tail gate and attach the straps to your bike as high up as possible [with it on the rack obviously] tighten up a little pulling the bike toward the back of the car and now when you drive over dips and bumps in the road you bike will not look like it is trying to escape the rack and also your swan neck will have a much better chance of not snapping off or buckling.