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jonnyc21

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Everything posted by jonnyc21
 
 
  1. I agree with linaway start by going 3/4 to 1 turn out (counter clockwise) from where it was when it stopped working first. If that dose not fix it I would start by checking if you have spark, if not double check the throttle has a bit of play in it as a pinched cable might not return everything back to 0 and the ECU might be preventing starting, then check ground connections, consider checking if the valve adjustment is correct, however it if went from running fine to not starting that isn't usually the issue, they will be hard start first if that is the problem in most cases. Good luck.
  2. I agree with lineaway, I have seen and fixed more than one buddies brakes because of contaminated pads over the years and most often its an oil based product, including but not limited to WD40, that got on the pads. Comments are always something like, but its just a little over spray (of what ever the product was), and no matter how much cleaning, heating, or other attempts I have tried to get it working again in the end only proper cleaning of the disk, new pads, and a good heat cycle and water quench has been the fix. My exp and 2 cents for what its worth.
  3. Okay, with that I am now guessing tire not rim/wheel. Maybe you could mark the tire and rim where the leak is currently and then rotate the tire leak point to a spot you know there is no leak on the wheel now and check again, if the leak follow the tire its not the rim/wheel, if not then its the wheel? Good luck.
  4. With more than one tire and re-seating it I would sure think the rim has an issue. Last time I had that issue (08 Gas Gas) myself it was a combination of rim and tire, cleaned up the rim a bit better and change to a new tire and it stopped. Still had some rim-band issues so had to clean it up even more before it was really good but no rim leak after it was all sorted. Good luck.
  5. I know my 4RT exhaust gets hot a lot faster than all of the 2t bikes I have owned but I don't think I have ever checked how quick so can't say if its seconds after startup or not. Other than a very hot day I don't think the fan starts up as fast as your indicating yours is doing. Have you checked the coolant level to be sure you are not running a bit low? Also make sure the engine oil level is good as low oil can also contribute to running a bit hot. I have a busy week so will not be running the bike tell Saturday but I will try and remember to check the thread to see if you have a better answer before I ride as well as try and remember to keep an eye on how soon and how hot it seems to get for comparison. Here is to the hope someone else can chime in and confirm with a better response before then.
  6. The mud was a big thing for me when I first got my 07 Montesa 250 as I was in western WA in the US and most of the time it was wet because of rain trees and included all kinds of wet leaves and stuff on the ground I had to ride in. I had two riding buddies at the time and both on 2T Gas Gas's and I didn't have any trouble riding with them. It was different and I started my trials on the Montesa as my first bike so that might have helped but never had any trouble with traction and keeping up with them and progressing. Move to Idaho a number of years ago now so had to re-learn how to ride on dry sticky rocks... was quite the adjustment. What ever way you go, good luck making the call!
  7. I have an 07 250 4RT and a 17 300RR Montesa and spend some good time on a 18 Beta 300 4T. For the most part they are very close however the Montesa has more pull at the low end with the Beta being softer on the low end. The Montesa has just a bit smother throttle through the full range with the top end of both being so close I couldn't tell the difference. The Montesa when swapped for a quick throttle tube (they come stock with a slow/black one) is a lot more aggressive than the Beta even my 250 is more lively with a quick throttle than the Beta however not as much pull as the 300 Beta above the half way point to the top but rev's quicker for sure. The Montesa seemed to carry the weight a bit lower and feels more planted than the Beta did, I found the Beta to be more lively for the suspension and even though the Montesa where adjustable can be nearly the same it still feels a bit less so I think because of how it carries the weight. On the traction side of things I find the Montesa to be much better in the wet than any of the 2T bikes I have been on (Gas Gas 125/250 2T, Beta 250/300 2T) however different and if your used to a 2T it will take some time to adjust to the difference. Between the two I side to the Montesa for the EFI over all considering the only adjustment I have ever had to do is idle/tick-over at very high elevation. Hope that helps a bit with at least one persons experience between a Beta and Montesa 4T. PS, Maintenance on the Montesa is more complex with the way they do the oil filter so that might be worth note.
  8. jonnyc21

    Boots

    I would have to give the alpinestars the nod for stiff when considering ankle issues. My wife's garnier are much softer in almost every way. Good luck.
  9. It should self prime with a couple kicks after adding fuel. After that you may need to give it full throttle and a single kick to reset the ECU for it to start but that would be about it unless as indicated by lemur the pump failed.
  10. Montesa's don't come with a seat by default in most places, however they can be found if you want one and are willing to look around for them. The catch is depending on your location it maybe hard to get one though.
  11. If your leaning to E-Start then I would lean to a TRS 250 as most people really don't need 300's. Gas Gas's are known for being harder to start in general. Even my daughters 125 Gas Gas was harder for me to start when cold than my Montesa 300 RR (not harder to kick over but to get started, especially when cold). I know its opinion and having my bias to Montesa's would get another in a snap if I was after an upgrade as I find them great on a trail and at the club events myself. They do have there disadvantages however so are not for everyone. Good luck deciding what to get.
  12. Not sure myself on if it can be converted but I would expect at the latest you can get a low compression head/insert. hopefully someone else knows the exact answer.
  13. I am glad to learn this as well, thank you!
  14. Makes sense, I admit I am quite interested in hearing what others think as well. Though if I still had a 2T bike I would be willing to give it a try. Only have a couple of Montesa 4T's at this time so not really in the cards for me.
  15. The concept sounds good, I have to wonder how long it would last, how it would sound, if it would capture oil more, and such. If you ever end up giving it a try I would be interested in the outcome.
  16. I knot it isn't a steep hill video but it a good uphill splat shot of Bou.
  17. My 2017 300 RR Montesa came in at 164-165 and my 2007 4RT was 166-167 fully fueled and ready to ride if I am remembering correctly. Hope that helps.
  18. Yes and no part numbers are different but one is black and the other is silver. everything else looks the same to me between both my bikes so I would expect someone could interchange them without issue. 11350-NN4-000 - for my 2007 250 and a 2022 260 11350-NN4-L60 - for my 2017 300 and a 2022 301
  19. I only suggest the cam chain tensioner because I have heard of a few of them having issues where they would bind up and not keep the needed pressure and so get some chain slap. Where not a common issue one of the ones I know about was on a newer 260 (couple years old) so figured considering how easy it is to check that part it was worth a look. The one I indicated here was replaced by a manual tensioner and the sound went away and the owner likes it better, however if swapped with a manual version it would need to have the tension checked from time to time. What ever the case I hope it turns out something simple to fix it like changing fuel, the tensioner, or spark plug etc.
  20. Before going all in on that I would double check the timing chain tensioner. I know that you can get a noise that sounds a bit like piston slap from the chain. Would be the least invasive check and if the issue would be one of the lower cost options. Well worth a look in my opinion. Also, unless you put piles of hours on your bike or are not doing oil changes it is more likely something simple like the tensioner than a piston issue considering the year of even the oldest 301's in comparison to how long most Montesa's last in my opinion. good luck.
  21. Bit longer and not as much riding as I would like so going back to older threads seems to be a side-affect. LOL
  22. Both my 2007 4RT and my 2017 300 RR is behind the bars as well... good luck. PS. On Page 34-35 or section 2-11 and 2-12 under service data of the manual linaway posted is the hose and cable routing information.
  23. I know this is a very old thread however I think it really depends on what kind of speeds your going and if road or trail riding. On a decently open trail where I was able to hold a lot of 4th gear and some 5th mid RPM and almost never going below 3rd on my Montesa I was able to get just over 23 miles on the 2 Liter tank of fuel. (Bike was a 2007 Montesa 4RT 250). When I ride a lot of slower more technical trails or higher RPM's the fuel drops and I don't get that much. I had to carry extra fuel to be sure I could make the loop I was riding, ended up only needing 1 of the 3.5 extra I had with me.
  24. I have to agree on feeling that most would not be secure enough, part of why I was looking at ones online that I felt might be better. As for comfort, I can only hope one I try is close enough that with a thin sleeve it might be decent but even then I think that will be the part that is the most difficult. I also had the thought of using some fishing line to connect the ends together as I could then figure out how many strands of what test was needed to match the breakaway of a current tether. would solve the comfort issue that way as well.
  25. Ya I have a back burner thought on picking up several breakaway buckles and testing the brake point of an old tether strap and doing the same with the buckles and comparing the results to see if I can find something that would work well enough I would be willing to use. (Comfort would be a consideration as well) Some examples of what I was thinking about testing... My two favorites: 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QYY82XD/?coliid=I14TRKD5T1DIJG&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BQV6QXKG/?coliid=IXJ1F5LZMCJJR&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it I also found some others I was thinking to test as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DL1OI3K/?coliid=I9F82BXNUOCFO&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NZ9SBNH/?coliid=I3OC3XIHVYJGV8&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P1D14GH/?coliid=I1DZW4HLW2WE2J&colid=1KW23DGE2MLZ7&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it PS. If anyone beats me to this I am happy to give them the credit as it isn't really something I care to try and make into a product. I will likely share the results here for everyone just not planning on making any for others.
 
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