jonnyc21

Looking them up they sure seem like they are their own thing with no connection to S3 directly and the design isn't the same, though a lot like them. Looks like they only have one type that works on trials bikes though. "Trials AS3 Racing Foot Pegs" Hope someone can chime in with some experience with them and a real review for you soon.

I guess I missed the part about your lanyard being on the bike for along time already. Side thought, a fellow rider I know had a lanyard kill switch fail internally 8 weeks after he installed it, so still might be worth a check/test. As for the cap, I noticed it wasn't stock so agreed with lineaway that they can cause issues so again worth a check. If you already know it doesn't have any kind of check valve and the whole is currently clear then you should be fine. As for the hour/tach there should have been a set of instructions that tell you how to deal with RPM's being double what they should be. (I think I remember it was a HardLine unit you got? If so this is a link to their current instructions: https://www.hardlineproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/8067-2download.pdf) RPM Section: Changing Spark/Pulse Input: While in Tach mode, press and hold button until until “1P:1r” appears on the display. Release button if this is the desired mode. Hold button to view more selections. “1P:1r” indicates that the meter is set for 1 Pulse per 1 revolution. “1P:2r” indicates that the meter is set for 1 Pulse per 2 revolution. “2P:1r” indicates that the meter is set for 2 Pulse per 1 revolution. If your RPM reading is double what it should be at idle you need to select “2P:1r” Refer to your owners manual for correct idle RPM. Hope this helps.

I agree with lineaway to remove the no spill cap and see how things go. The two times I have tried one for any of my bikes I have had some kind of issue and ended up deciding not to do it again, no issues sense. And always worth a look at any changes that recently happened such as jummyl's suggestion on going back to a kill button to test.

First and foremost, the OP isn't asking about a getting another Montesa so not sure how your cover issue is relevant to the current discussion. However seeing that your brining it up... It is true that the cover will cost a lot if you brake it, however there is a guard for the cover that can make a big difference (though not a 100% affective) but a leaky fuel tank to me is a much bigger deal as not only can this cause a DNF but to me is a much bigger deal as fuel all over me, the bike, the ground, etc. is much worse in a lot of ways in my opinion. And where I know not everyone has had the same level of trouble with the leaky tank but some are having really big issues with it and any issue that is that wide spread is a lot bigger deal that a few people that hit the cover (much less often an issue that the leaky tank). I will also say that this doesn't make the Shecro's or Scorpa's a bad bike, they are great and other than the fuel tank issue I have nothing bad to say about them. As long as people are aware they might have a big issue with the tank and are willing to deal with it if it happens then they will have a fantastic bike. I just wouldn't be willing to spend $ on one tell that is sorted... This is my experience and 2 cents... Side note: I have been on Montesa's for over 10 years now and never hit that cover in a way to cause an issue even if I didn't have the guard on it, maybe I am just lucky? (shrug)

Have one guy in our group with a Vertigo and hia seems to be doing well over all for reliability and performance. We have a few TRS guys with good luck, and a good bunch of Betas doing very well. not a big fan of the Sherco’s at the moment with the fuel leaks. So if I was going 2T I would probably go TRS or Vertigo... rather fond of EFI so would likely go that route at the moment but who’s to say I wouldn’t change my mind by the time I am ready to actually buy another bike. Very happy with my 17 Montesa 300 RR at the moment so no rush. good luck!

I don't know, a few small belt buckle or shoelace type grommets in the boot could really make a big difference in heat. Maybe place a couple on each side with about a 3 cm (1 inc) space between them down low, mid, and high. It could possibly lower discomfort a lot and help with fatigue. Worth testing out as long as you have an older pair of boots to play with and are willing to take on the risk it might compromise the boot. Heck, I might give it a try with my old AlpineStars. hmmmm...

I have had good luck with Dunlop's and Michelin's in the mud myself. But seem to recall people saying that IRC's are good in the mud, though I have never tried them. I personally think the Michelin's are best over all so run them as my first choice, but with them being hard to get here in the US as of late I have been running Dunlops a lot as of late. My mind is that just a new tire is the best for helping in muddy conditions myself as it has a sharper edge profile but I admit I only ride middle of the pack skill wise so take this all with a grain of sand. Good luck.

Unless someone chimes in on something I haven't seen yet at this point between what my family and I have tried Gaerne and ApineStars or the others my buddies have used (Wolf, Forma, and Hebo) non of them are any better than the others. Not sure about Stylmartin, Sidi or Mots but based on how they look I am going to guess not much better if at all. On that note I would think putting a few grommet holes a pair might be a good way to get a bit of heat and moisture out of a pair and worth a try.

I wouldn't say they get hot often but I have seen them get very hot when doing a long loop or a trial with a lot of hills so it defiantly can happen.

I would expect most rattle can paint to not deal with brake fluid well. If I was going to do a caliper I would See about that home power coating stuff.

I like this one and the instrument style mount. (no affiliation just like the product) https://www.hardlineproducts.com/product/hourtach-meter/ https://www.hardlineproducts.com/product/hour-meter-instrument-style-mount/ Might be able to find it for less on Amazon?

Well, if you just had a larger radiator put in recently (at least that is what it sounded like in your second post) you might just have a bit of air in the system from that and topping it back up might sort it out? You could also double check temp Sensor?

The tickover was low when I first got my 300 RR new and it was factory set. I adjusted it strait away to eliminate the common issues that creates and haven't had an issue with it sense. So, based on you thinking idle is low, I would expect that this will likely will correct the problem, though I can't promise that. This is critical before attempting to troubleshoot anything else. Good luck.

At one point I got something stuck in my fan and it messed up both the fan blades and the fan motor. As a result my bike did exactly the same thing you are talking about when it got warm and the fan tried to kick on. The only fix was to replace both in the end. I am sure the engine running issues (splutter) was caused by the issues in the fan motor but of course as I had broken blades so had to swap both. Once I relpaced the fan motor the bike has had zero issues (no splutter) ever sense. Oh and I had to get the bike back to the car and the longer I ran it and the more the fan attempted to come on the worse it got tell it was fixed. PS. If you haven't checked your idle is set to the correct 1800 RPM's I would do that first just in case. Good luck!

The rear shock of a standard is the primary bit I am not fond of so, you could spend a bit less on a standard and replace the rear with a TPR and it would make it a lot closer in comparison. Then again that is another $600 US so... Also, having been on a 2017 standard, an 2014 Repsol and my 2017 300RR, I personally think that with the TPR comparison the Showa suspension is worth the $1K upgrade over the standard unless you want to ride the standard for a year or two before upgrading/changing anything. As for the S3 pipe, I wouldn't bother with that unless your going to go all the way to the point of a programmable throttle body, but I have heard that it can still improve the feel of the bike without the ECU upgrade. But this isn't experience talking...

If you want a bit more throttle response then I agree go with the Montesa, in my opinion my 300 RR has quite a bit more instant response than my buddies Beta 300 I got a chance to ride. I will say you might also want to swap from the black throttle tube to the white on what ever Montesa you get if you want it to feel more responsive. I did the white tube swap on my 300 RR and it was well worth it in my opinion.

If doing this from new might be running lean on the low end? Maybe adjust the air/fuel setting and check what jets are in it and?

Maybe, I am 195 and my daughter rides a 125... based on riding hers quite a bit I would say that it would depend on a few things before I would recommend a 125 for anyone around the 200 mark. How much past bike experience you have? If a lot you might want to consider a 200-250. Your altitude, if your 5k feet or more I would go bigger. If your going to ride a lot of big hills (consider 200-250) If your already into to big enduro bikes (300 2T and 450-5004T bikes) you would want to consider bigger This is a few things that would make me consider a bigger bike than a 125... On the other side of the fence I love playing on her 125, there isn't a lot of things I can do on my bigger bike that can't do on her bike. As we are at around 3k feet altitude it seems to have decent power even for chucking me up some decent size stuff (but I do have to wind it out a bit to do so). It feels so light, so it provides a lot of great fun... Hope that helps.

unless your riding at very high altitude or are a large person there isn't any need to go bigger than a 250 and many like the Beta 200's even over a 250. Based on your experience with enduro going to a 300 will likely not be a problem at all and if you like the lower end grunt a 300 might feel better. I like the feel and ride of my Montesa 300 better than my older Montesa 250 but I don't think I do any better on it than the 250. Because I like the feel of the engine and the suspension better on the 300 I prefer it but really don't need that much bike. A note: In my 10+ years riding modern trials bikes; I know several riders, some much more experienced than myself, who have gone down to 250's and find they do better in competition on the 250's v's the 300's... I know this is just my 2 cents but hope it helps...

Yes there was some 2014's that had bearing issues. Unless your already a 4T guy I would say most people prefer the 2T bikes when compared back to back so where Montesa's are very reliable and great bikes being an EFI 4T you might find you like a Beta, Sherco, Scorpa, TRRS (TRS), Vertigo, or Gas Gas 2T better as far as the engine feel is concerned. I like the 4T's and really like the Beta and Montesa 4T's myself (Have a Montesa 300RR) but that is preference. If the only bikes in the aria was a 2014 Gas Gas and it was me I would likely work with a dealer to find a good used bike and have it shipped if there wasn't one close. And I think I would go Beta or TRRS, but that is me and very much opinion.

jrsunt is correct, it will not start without it connected. Once when I cleaned my tank filter on my 07 4RT I didn't connect the fuel pump back up by mistake, took me a few min to figure out why it wouldn't give me spark. As for 12v on the pump you should be able to hear it kick on and off as long as you don't have to much background noise. They are fairly quiet so be sure there isn't much to distract when testing.

Sounds like it isn't the bank sensor... There is a long list of things to check and I admit I don't remember them all off the top of my head, however here is some of the more common ones I can think of. Check there is a small bit of play in the throttle cable Check that the throttle body isn't going negative by putting a thin shim under the throttle stop (you can sometimes supper glue a really small washer for checking this) Check all the ground connections are clean and connected Make sure you don't have a bad component causing an issue (a bad fan or fuel pump) can check them with a 12v battery. Bank angle sensor (you have already checked this) If I think of anything else I will let you know... After that I would see if I can find someone else willing to swap ECU's to test with?

I tested my 07 with a bypassing/jumper to see if the bike would start and found that to be my problem. All I did was to use a bit of stranded wire as a jumper between the two outside pins to test and the bike started fine (could even use a small bit of paper clip or the like). After that I cut the wires on my bad bank sensor with as much length as possible left on the plug. Then I capped off the center one filled it with a bit of silicone to stop water ingress. Finally I spliced the two outside wires together and plugged it back in tell the new part came in.

If you have a buddy with relatively new tires on their bike you could compare them... If they seem a lot harder then maybe change them.

As I understand it the new bikes still are standard plates and dimpled are aftermarket only. Edit: The part number on my 07 match with the part number for the 2018 260, so ya... not dimpled. 22321-MG3-000