jonnyc21

I think you may want to double check because I would expect it to be inch lbs not ft lbs on spokes? Or are you talking some other part bing tightened? Edit: I just checked my Montesa manual and the rear is saying 3 N.m (26.5 inch-lbs)... interesting I don't see a spec for the front though...

I like this video on how to do it. I would loosen it all up and then start this process.

If you really want to torque you would want to first loosen everything and re-true and tighten again to not twist the wheel. Other wise just tape the spokes and tighten tell they all have a nice ping sound... as b40rt pointed out you don't want a dull thud sound when tapping them as that would be way to loose.

I have seen pictures of one on a Gas Gas and one on a Beta so they can be setup for other bikes, however it seems it is not common. As I don't know anything more about it other than it can be done and only ever used Showa suspension on my two Montesa's (07 4RT & 2017 300RR) I can't speak to the difference over the other bikes. And for clarification: The Montesa Repsol has Showa front and Rear, 300RR and 301RR have Formula Tech front and Showa Rear...

Based on your indication of possible gas gas I am going to say it sounds like your most interested in 2t (2 stroke), if so I would say 250. If you end up considering a 4t (4 stroke) the Beta 300 would be fine or a Montesa 260 would be good as well. Even after riding lots of differnt bikes over the years I was very glad that I started on a 250 for my first trials bike and would most likely be on a Montesa 260 if I had been able to get a Repsol when I upgraded but they only sold the standard or the 300 in the US at the time and I wanted the upgraded suspension. Even at 89 kilos (196 lbs) I really don't need the 300 and would probably ride better on a 250. Oh, and I would echo the comments on getting something other than a Gas Gas based on the current state of the company. If the Gas Gas seems like a good bike I would say you might like the TRS (TRRS?) as they ride more like a Gas Gas than the Beta's I have been on and it is not a company that is currently in question for the future. My top choices for 2T bikes are TRS, Beta, and Sherco/scorpa all great bikes and your very likely to be able to get support for a long time with any of them. Hope that helps.

It can be tricky for sure. Tell I got a kit I was not able to get a good seal and bleed it correctly in reverse. Even when I revers bleed a system I double check everything with a forward bleed and have even had to use a suction setup on an old BMW I used to have that I just couldn't get completely good without doing so.

With that setup if you had a reverse bleed setup it might have been a one shot setup... Ether way, I will have to remember this if I ever need to do a complete bleed on ether of my 4RT's. Thanks!

I don't think it is an exact answer but a lot of good information on 6v systems can be found when looking at old cars running 6v systems. Example: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/63045-what-wire-gauge-to-use/ Summary of what I see when looking at this is that #14 wire should hold up to 15amps...

I am not, lots of great places to rid in the world where waterproof isn't the top thing to consider... Even when I was in Western Washington, US (a lot like riding in the UK for rain and mud) it didn't seem to help enough to have them waterproof anyway... Ya, its my 2 cents so not worth a lot but there you have it.

Seems like English is a second language so I took a best guess on my response.

I haven't had any issues with a gentle cycle on cold in a small load with like colors.

If your wanting to give it a try without adding chain links I would go with Jimmyl's 9/41, or as above add links or swap everything out for new.

I just recently got a set and I think the size seems good, or at least it sized the same as the older AlpineStars trials boots. They have a bit stiffer sole but my feet need that and I don't find it hiders my riding (I am kind of that lower intermediate level). Over all they seem decent quality and I am hoping they will last as long as the older version I had.

If I recall correctly... fast/white is like 1/2 turn to full open and slow/black is like 5/8 turn.

I can't speak to if 3mm of movement is enough on the slave for a 315R, however, did you bleed the slave recently? If not I would start there. On a side note, a few things to consider might be... When you took the basket apart did you have divots/indentations on the clutch fingers where the plates touch? If not, was there any unexpected wear that could account for things shifting off center? Did the clutch friction plates have a larger than normal amount of exposed glue and enough wear to the point where you might have any of that glue in contact with the pressure plates? Any of this could account for it outside of the slave movement.

I think it was the fuel pump wires that got loose on me once and the ECU wouldn't give me any spark tell I fixed it... not likely the issue, but it was a cause of no spark and my bike just cutting out on me all of a sudden when I was riding it.

if you haven't check the RPM at idle is at least 1800' when warm it really could be the issue. That is not 100% for sure but well worth making sure before calling it a more complex problem.

I am with neils on wheels and use the primus bottles if I need to carry extra fuel. I then use a Wolfman fuel bottle holder to strap it to the left hand downtube of my my bike. (Mine is the older version of this one, https://wolfmanluggage.com/collections/fluid-systems/products/wolf-bottle-holster-wp)

I don't have ether so this is what I understand from looking into this in the past... The Mitani doesn't have the same performance of the Termi so people that are interested in over all engine performance will often go Termi. To replace a stock system for weight savings or when damaged the cost of the Mitani is often the way I have seen people go so that is a factor to me worth consideration as well. What ever way you go if you want the maximum performance from the Termi or Mitani you would also likely need a PTB and a bit of other performance modifications to really make the most of them. To sum it up from my point of view, with the overall cost less, the replaceable cover, and weight savings on the Mitani over the Termi, and with my wallet in consideration, I would go Mitani. I know its option based on what I have read and not actual experience with them, but still hope it helps...

I am around 14.5 stone and have played around a lot on my daughters Gas Gas 125 and would say that for me I wouldn't prefer anything under a 250 for my personal bike. Thought it can be fun to ride her 125 and I can sure rev it out and do most of what I am able to do on my Montesa it sure isn't as fun to ride on bigger hills and its a bit of an adjustment every time I ride it.

As lineawy indicated adjusting the idle is an easy check and worth a quick try. As above check spark, if you have that then the next in my mind is compression because its an easy check and then fuel. However with what you indicated I would expect it to be spark or fuel as compression usually would show up as early starting or other hard running issues first before just not starting. My 2 cents on how I would look into it... If you do not have spark I would try disconnecting the kill switch and checking spark again, if still no spark start checking the wires and see where you might have a loose wire or wet connectors from the muddy conditions. If you have a gauge to check compression I would do that next just because its quick and easy. Now If you have spark I would use a 12 v battery to check the fuel pump, if that works then continue down the line to see if you have fuel coming out of the injector. If you hit a wall with all of the above let us know.

As jimmyl indicated its under the black cover and add a shim against the casting.

One possible cause could be that the throttle position sensor thinks your going past 100%. Try using some superglue to fix a thin washer or something to the stop to see if it will stop doing that, if so its a position sensor issue. Another possible cause might be that your t-bag filter is plugged, though that seems a bit less likely based on what you indicate is happening.

You are correct that to bypass the tilt switch its the outside two wires that need to be joined. Unless your having an issue with the tilt switch I wouldn't bypass it as I have had my bike on top of me once where the lanyard did not disconnect and having the tilt switch was helpful. (Though this is a rare situation) If you expect to ride in conditions where you will become separated from the bike a lot I would fit a lanyard in place of the manual kill switch as the tilt switch can take a few seconds to kick in where the lanyard will stop the engine much quicker. Good luck and I hope you enjoy the bike!

Yes, both rebound and compression are slower at the default settings on the early 4RT's in comparison to newer bikes so makes the bike feel slow and heavy by comparison as well as requiring more effort to hop them. Turning the settings out closer to the softest side of things helps but for me it was still a bit to slow when the weather turned cold so I had the fluid in mine swapped for 2.5 rather than the sock 5 to speed things up. Found that held my settings closer to the center of the adjustment range and helps in cold weather as I still have some range adjustment to speed things up when needed.