jonnyc21

Not sure where you are but I would order it from here. https://rypusa.com/ryan-young-technique-video-dvd/

Tony27 has it spot on. Get the first one and leave the Advanced DVD for now.

Some of the terms may differ for the techniques outside the US so you may have to watch it before it makes perfect sense. Chapter list: Bike Setup Setup Levers Throttle Foot Pegs Tire Pressure Rear Brake Suspension Safety Equipment Balance and Wheelies Stance Balance Turns Wheelies Bunny Hops Turns Camber Turns Floater Turns Pivot Turns Up Hills & Down Hills Walking and Riding Sections Walking a Section Riding a Section Wheel Hops Front Wheel Hop Front Wheel Hop with Clutch The Nose Wheelie Advanced Riding Jap Zap 2nd & 3rd Gar Splatter Nose Wheelie Pt 2 Double Blip Holding Pressure Extreme Riding Drop Offs Extreme Rollups Splatter Flip Turns Various Techniques Walking Advance Sections Using Various Techniques

If we had enough riders I would suggest more of a stock bike class, kind of like Trial 2, where the riders are allowed to only complete on stock bikes with minor alterations like change bars, pegs, tires type of thing. I really think letting the GP riders have there custom works bikes is best for continued bike development and would then let the stock bike class bikes get better each year. My 2 cents.

I think the Ryan DVD is well worth the cost. Really helped me and I even re-watch it form time to time to remind myself of the proper way to do it. My 2 cents.

I blame the bike all the time, regardless of how little it is actually at fault... ?

Started on a 2T, went to a Montesa 4RT 250 and now have a Montesa 300RR. I ride my daughters 2T from time to time and just like the 4T better. I can't say I am better on one or the other but as I like the 4T better I will stick with it. Good luck with your choice.

I would go Beta Evo or Rev 80 small wheel as my first choice, but you really wouldn't go wrong with a TY80. The Beta 80 Jr (small wheels) has a 6 speed transmission and a nice strong engine. My daughter had the Beta 80 Sr (Full size) and other than the taller suspension and bigger wheels it was the same as the Jr when I compared it to another club members Jr. Good luck finding something.

Defiantly no need to change it more often than every 15 hours. I go by the book on the engine oil and it always comes out looking better than my car's oil on a change and I change the transmission oil every 30 hours (With the ELF oil) and it always looks great when I do and it performs fantastic. If I was competing at a higher level and riding a lot more I would go every 15 but with the performance I am getting it doesn't seem to be an issue at all.

I would expect it to be the same spec as the front forks "Showa SS05 (5w)" however I am not able to confirm this... If I find out for sure I will post the information.

Not sure I would try bringing the moto into the house, but the wife lets me put a sheet of plywood in the TV room and play on the trials bicycle in the winter ...

Looks like a standard paper size sleeve with the top folded over to me? wouldn't be to hard to pick some up and just sort them yourself I would think?

My thought would be yes and no. I think with the ability to train as much as they do, in a way they do leave the sport behind but I am not sure that is killing WTC. When I look at the evolution of trials and the more advanced techniques we have today because of the level they are able to work at I think its more gain than loss over all. I do believe that the people running things would do well to take a closer look at the big picture and evaluate a better long term plan to improve things. To be able to consider things like the grass roots of the clubs and what they provide as well as the needs of the factories and organizations (FIM and other national trials groups) and the best possible ways to make minor changes over time and be willing to undo the changes if needed to maximize the return on investment are critical, but I digress. Even with that consideration, without the money for the professional riders would we get the improvements in the bikes over time? Would we get new companies like Vertigo, TRS, etc.? So in another way they help things keep going from a different angle.

I would agree with heffergm that the problem will not be fixed by adding another line between T2 and GP. To me it just thins the already slim number of riders at the top. Am I correct, maybe not but that is my opinion. I also add that that I believe collyolly has the correct focus, club level really is the best place to put our efforts.

The 2018 standard 4RT should be a great bike, nearly identical to the 2017 I had a chance to ride. The two in our group are fantastic bikes and I wouldn't hesitate to get a 2018 260. If you do get it I hope you like it a lot! Good luck making your call.

For the 7/8 bars Renthal has at least a 5.5" and 6.0" Trials bend option. You could also consider getting a new top to the triple clamp to fit a set of fat bars on the 315 as an option that would let you get some better bars, though its a bit more $ out of pocket that way. Some examples: http://www.jackscycles.com/HandlebarCatalog.html

I would agree with duggan that its stronger off the low end to mid range. but also think Johnny is correct that they are a bit stronger the whole range. Only loosing a touch at the very top over a 2T but even then not by much.

There are a few differences that I have found between the 2T's I have had the chance to ride and my Montesa 4RT's. The most noticeable difference between them in my time riding the Montesa in comparison to the different 2T's I have been on is the way the power of the engine feels. There is also a combination of other things that I think really stand out like how the clutch differs, engine braking, and subtle differences in weight with both a bit more and location (how the bike caries it). This is my perception on the Montesa in comparison to the 2T's I have been on... 1) Power: Fantastic mid range and very easy to modulate with throttle and can have you riding more with it than the clutch if you get lazy. 2) Clutch: A bit stiffer pull (though not much) and can be a bit more on/off than most of the 2T's if not running a good oil for it but I have found it very manageable with good clutch oil. (ELF, ATF, or Maxima 75 have all worked well for me, I suggest a search for ELF oil if you have more questions here) 3) Engine braking: Need to learn how to use it or avoid it by letting off the throttle or pulling the clutch longer or holding a touch of throttle for a second longer etc. Just takes some adjustment time if you come from a 2T background. 4) Weight: Depending on the bike you compare I have seen between 6 to 10 lbs difference... To me the Montesa seems to hold its weight a bit lower than the 2T's I have been on. So, when you find your balance it feels very planted and to me doesn't seem to take as much work to keep in place. However it can also be harder to get back that balance if you let it go to far without correction. This is a few of the things I can think of off the top of my head.

Front wheel strait is not easy, and even harder on a smooth floor... My recommendation is to lower your your tire pressure tell they are nearly flat when you first start. Then you can practice tell you brain can't take it any more, and repeat daily tell you get it. Next bring the pressure up about 1/2 a PSI/ or .04 bar and begin again. Rinse and repeat tell you get to normal riding pressure on the tires... Lots of other good information in here so good luck!

The top riders definitely have there suspension tuning done, however the question is at what level. If you dig aground a bit you should be able to find some decent information on this. Might look into TURN Racing? Nice shot of Toni in their gallery: http://www.trunracing.it/index.php?option=com_sppagebuilder&view=page&id=12&Itemid=518&lang=en

I think you already have some great responses, however I will add our experience in case it helps. When we found out about trials it was an interesting adventure I am glad we took and keep doing today. We started by getting my wife's Gas Gas 125 first so I started learning on it and I was amazed at how well it worked even for me at 190 lbs. I can even say that I would still be happy riding that 125 today without any upgrade if it had come to that. We didn't have any other 125's around so the second bike was a 250, and then my daughters Beta 80. A couple years ago I finally got a 300 and we all upgraded one bike. (Need to find a new home for the kids 80, now that it hasn't been out much in the last couple years... ) Power wise the 250 is all I could ever need though the 300 is a great bike I can't see where it really gives me anything the 250 didn't in usability. I often find a take a few more points on the 300 than I did on the 250 and when it gets out of hand its a bit more of a handful than the 250 is when it dose the same. I can say that I have had the most fun on the 250 over all at this point, though I haven't had my 300 long enough to say that will always be the case. Also, the 125 has only ever thrown me when I rev it way out and I miss time dropping the clutch, and other than a really big hill climb at altitude once it hasn't ever lacked power for anything else. So in summary, with your MX experience I would say you could go with anything but a 250 would likely be the big win for a good long term experience. Hope that helps.

Based on what I read the different crank venting to lower compression braking and the change in the flywheel would really be the only big differences mechanically in a 300RR with the big bore and the 301RR. On the other side fuel and ignition mapping would be the only other thing that would really make a difference and you should be able to sort that with the PTB software/hardware. Would be very interested in knowing how well it all works out for you.

As stated above, the 2 things that seem to cause the most issues with a 4RT in the way you are talking are low tick over (not 1800 RPM) and valves being out of spec on the tight side. I would of course check the tick over (idle RPM) is 1800 first, then if that's good then move to valves and let us know if your still seeing the issue.

FYI: a 250 isn't to small by any stretch. Here is my experience with engine size for reference... My daughter rides an 08 Gas Gas TXT Pro 125 and my wife has a Montesa 4RT 250 and I am ~200 lbs (~91 kg). I have more than once on the 125 taken it for a ride and it halls me around fine. We are at around 3000' elevation and even at around 5000 about the only thing I have had to do is down shift to second on a big hill clime. My wife's 250, well there isn't anything it can't do for me that I am capable of doing on my Montesa 300 RR. Simply put I don't need anything bigger than the 250, just couldn't pass up the 300 as a B-Day present from my wife a couple summers ago. PS. would have been happy with a 260 4RT if they shop had one... Side note: I am not sure the market out there for bikes, however I would say get the one that has a better re-sale market between the two as both will do fine for your size.

There are some fuel stabilizers/additives available here in the US that are suppose to help in prolonging shelf life for fuel. They are often used in small engine applications for winter storage and many people say they work fine. I personally feel they do help in storage of trials bikes but are best if you can mix in fresh fuel with it as soon as possible. I ride my bike nearly year round but my wife and Daughters bikes are stored for around 2 to 3 months depending on weather so often use it in them. Haven't had any issues but do a few things to help them the best I can. 1. Add the stabilizer 2. Fill the tank as close to the top as possible 3. Drain the floats empty if its going to sit for longer than 1 month 4. When running the bike for the first time after storage I add fresh fuel as soon as 1/4-1/2 tank used up. I try to get a good long practice run on both of there bikes first chance I can to use up at least a minimum of 1/2 to 3/4 of the stabilized fuel up. Here is a video showing the results of someone testing them for possible damage with ethinol and he runs the fuel in a lawn mower post test.