jonnyc21

I agree, It would be nice to see a little less Lurid and a little less labeled. As such I like the looks of the Up and Over gear better than most, but need to use up my current gear a bit more before I can justify the expense to get some.

Bummer. Good luck and I am sure you will figure out something that works well tell your able to get a good pair of boots.

I tried a type of bark busters on my first trials bike for a time but after running them I find that if you really want something on the bars for any kind of protection I think the flag type guards to block bushes/branches are a better choice. Maybe not the best looking but after putting them on they sure have saved me from a few branch activated front brake and clutch moments out on the loop trail.

Sadly we don't have the size of group needed for a competition yet, however we are working on getting a Ryan Young training school setup for next year now that we are setup with OMC.

Some more context of what your talking about might help? World round level, local club, video on the internet, etc.? Without the context its hard to say for sure but it really depends on what rules are being observed. As walkertrials indicated if its a stop permitted event most rules I have ridden under let you if your hands are on the bars and engine is running. Some of other variations of stop allowed might be something like a stop is fine with feet up or something like that, if its a no-stop event then it should be a 5 because of the stop foot down or not. If you are in fact talking a no-stop event, witch it seems like you are, then a rider not getting called a 5 when they did stop with a foot down would be an error on the part of the observer, often because of misunderstanding the rules or not being focused on the rider when it happened, but would of course have been a 5 by the rules. So hope that helps.

I am from the Boise area and didn't see any information on a trials round for the Endurocross. Are you hooked up with the trials group out here? Small number of us getting into the OMC club and have setup a trials section there, as well as a number of us ride other locations around the area.

I almost forgot about dual sport boots working well. When I first started I used my dual sport boots and though the stepped heal wasn't the best they where much better than hiking boots or MX boots by a long shot.

If your going to buy something you might also look at the cost difference to some of the less expensive trials boot options in case they are also in your price range. I have seen some as low as the $170 range (I think the forma bolder can be found at that price range?) and with the flat sole and trials design they would be a better choice than hiking boots witch often have a heal and that can be problematic in trials for moving your feet around on the pegs.

Any chance you have something that has more flex than the MX boots and are more protective than running shoes? Maybe hiking boots? On that note if I didn't have anything but what you listed I might be willing to do basic flat ground work like balancing and figure 8's and such with the running shoes, but anything else I would pick the MX boots... Good luck.

I see a few comments about the Clake and think that might be a good option but it would take some brain re-training for sure. Video:

Sure looks like a 10cc bump to me... and a few other updates, small but should be noticeable! https://www.trialworld.es/montesa-cota-301rr-2020/

The factory settings should be in the manual... if you don't the manual I can look them up for you, however... It isn't really about starting from factory settings, its about knowing where you currently are so you can go back to at least what you are used to. I wouldn't worry to much about factory settings. At this point I would suggest going all the way out on everything and then ride it a bit so you know what it feels like. Then start going in 2 to 3 clicks at a time between rides on everything tell it start feeling good. Then do a good full practice ride it at least once or twice before doing anything else. Now if you like it great, if you want better then start adjusting one thing at a time, in or out on the front rebound tell you like it and then ride a bit, next in or out on the front compression tell you like it, then the same on the rear tell its as good as you can get. (Remember to write things down so you can go back at any point to what was last working well for you.) Finally, if you really like the current compression and rebound settings you can consider setting the sag if you want to go all the way. (FYI: I find around a 35-38% sage seems to work really well on my Montesa for me)

Yes, if its already a white tube it has been changed from stock. Every new 4RT or 300RR I have ever seen had a black tube when new.

A Domnio throttle tube works perfectly, direct swap shouldn’t need anything else other than maybe cable adjustment.

If they really wanted to go back to 2T I would expect they would just pull up the specifications of the 315R... Now the Gas Gas gearbox on the other hand, that’s an interesting consideration... ?

Not 100% but might work as an alternate replacement if you can't find something better? https://www.foxracing.com/buckle-replacement---for-pant-[black]-ns/91170-001-NS.html

The largest Gas Gas parts supplier for older bike I am aware of is the old US importer. Not that this is very helpful for you based on location. Can’t say who might be close to you that could have parts but might be worth a call/email to Jim if you can’t find what your looking for for. Good luck, and here is his website. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/

Honda already has Montesa, why would they consider Gas Gas... I know you didn’t suggest they are interested but figured better just clear that consideration off the plate... ?

If you really want to play with it what I would suggest is to take all the clickers and figure out where they currently are set and then write that down. now that you have the information to reset back if you find your not sure what you did because it isn’t riding nice you can start working through it. I would start next by taking a ride to make sure you have a feeling for current settings and then going to the extremes on the soft/bouncy side and test riding it so you can feel the difference. Now from all the way out start going in about 2-3 clicks at a time on all of them tell it feels like your not bouncing like a pogo stick but can feel some control in the compression and rebound. (Write this position down as well for reference.) Now you will want to re-calibrate your brain a bit by riding a full practice session or two at the new settings. At this point you should have a good idea if you want a little more compression because of drops or less because of defection when hitting sharp edges or to let it move a bit more for hops and such. Same should apply for rebound, little less for a better hop, little more if it’s kicking back a lot on hard edges. I know it sounds redundant and over the top to write things down but the more you have on where it was and currently is the easier it will be to reset or adjust so you can tweak as you go to get a better ride. good luck!

Ya, my 300RR felt a bit sluggish and not quite as much bounce before I set the clickers on the front and rear suspension back a few and changed to the white tube. Much better sense... my two cents worth. Hope it helps you out.

It’s a quick turn throttle tube. In sort it takes less of a twist of the tube to go from 0 to full, about 1/4 turn if I recall correctly. the outside diameter of the portion the cable wraps around is larger...

Just wondering what the intent on the big bore kit is? I have a 2017 300RR and found the best power mod for the $ was to swap out the black throttle tube for a white one... Love how much snappier the bike is... Outside of that you would likely get a lot more bang for the $ with a programmable throttle body than a big bore kit. Also something to consider before going to the bigger piston is fuel rate burn characteristics. If you consider the HRC bikes Bou and Fuji ride you will see they are something like 314cc and have a dual spark system to give the best performance, so the closer you get to that size the more you will want the programmable throttle body to be able (if possible) to tweak both fuel and ignition timing. I know that was a bit long winded and may not even apply to what your after so feel free to disregard it if it doesn't.

I really like the Red Line suspension fluid when I changed the oil on my 07 4RT. https://www.redlineoil.com/suspension-fluids I went down to 2.5 in both the front and had the rear done with the same to remove some of the sluggishness of the 07's Showa suspension of that year. Worked a treat!

The Dunlop 803 GP's are quite good I like them better than IRC. I like the X11 and X-light better but for the price the Dunlop's are a great choice. In my opinion.

I have run them as well as not run them and find that they do in fact save levers. I ended up deciding that I would go without them to see the difference I have sense bent a lever once. However because I have had my levers snagged by brush on the loop trails a few times after that I decided to at least put a pair of flag type guards on to prevent this. My decision to remove them was because of the increased risk of wrist injury, especially as one starts doing bigger stuff so decided I would rather replace a lever than be out a season of riding. Hope that helps.