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The largest Gas Gas parts supplier for older bike I am aware of is the old US importer. Not that this is very helpful for you based on location.
Can’t say who might be close to you that could have parts but might be worth a call/email to Jim if you can’t find what your looking for for.
Good luck, and here is his website.
http://www.trialspartsusa.com/
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Honda already has Montesa, why would they consider Gas Gas...
I know you didn’t suggest they are interested but figured better just clear that consideration off the plate...
?
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If you really want to play with it what I would suggest is to take all the clickers and figure out where they currently are set and then write that down.
now that you have the information to reset back if you find your not sure what you did because it isn’t riding nice you can start working through it.
I would start next by taking a ride to make sure you have a feeling for current settings and then going to the extremes on the soft/bouncy side and test riding it so you can feel the difference.
Now from all the way out start going in about 2-3 clicks at a time on all of them tell it feels like your not bouncing like a pogo stick but can feel some control in the compression and rebound. (Write this position down as well for reference.)
Now you will want to re-calibrate your brain a bit by riding a full practice session or two at the new settings.
At this point you should have a good idea if you want a little more compression because of drops or less because of defection when hitting sharp edges or to let it move a bit more for hops and such.
Same should apply for rebound, little less for a better hop, little more if it’s kicking back a lot on hard edges.
I know it sounds redundant and over the top to write things down but the more you have on where it was and currently is the easier it will be to reset or adjust so you can tweak as you go to get a better ride.
good luck!
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Ya, my 300RR felt a bit sluggish and not quite as much bounce before I set the clickers on the front and rear suspension back a few and changed to the white tube. Much better sense...
my two cents worth. Hope it helps you out.
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It’s a quick turn throttle tube. In sort it takes less of a twist of the tube to go from 0 to full, about 1/4 turn if I recall correctly.
the outside diameter of the portion the cable wraps around is larger...
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Just wondering what the intent on the big bore kit is?
I have a 2017 300RR and found the best power mod for the $ was to swap out the black throttle tube for a white one... Love how much snappier the bike is...
Outside of that you would likely get a lot more bang for the $ with a programmable throttle body than a big bore kit.
Also something to consider before going to the bigger piston is fuel rate burn characteristics. If you consider the HRC bikes Bou and Fuji ride you will see they are something like 314cc and have a dual spark system to give the best performance, so the closer you get to that size the more you will want the programmable throttle body to be able (if possible) to tweak both fuel and ignition timing.
I know that was a bit long winded and may not even apply to what your after so feel free to disregard it if it doesn't.
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I really like the Red Line suspension fluid when I changed the oil on my 07 4RT. https://www.redlineoil.com/suspension-fluids
I went down to 2.5 in both the front and had the rear done with the same to remove some of the sluggishness of the 07's Showa suspension of that year. Worked a treat!
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The Dunlop 803 GP's are quite good I like them better than IRC. I like the X11 and X-light better but for the price the Dunlop's are a great choice. In my opinion.
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I have run them as well as not run them and find that they do in fact save levers. I ended up deciding that I would go without them to see the difference I have sense bent a lever once. However because I have had my levers snagged by brush on the loop trails a few times after that I decided to at least put a pair of flag type guards on to prevent this.
My decision to remove them was because of the increased risk of wrist injury, especially as one starts doing bigger stuff so decided I would rather replace a lever than be out a season of riding.
Hope that helps.
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I would agree that with the catch bottle removed it would be possible to put a pump there. However the amount of work to do so and possible issues like pump quality/longevity and having to making sure its doesn't cause any other unexpected issues is just to much in my mind.
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Not sure about Europe but in the US my 300RR is registered as a Honda.
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When they do, my guess is that it will be an E-Bike... and at this point there isn't quite the market to justify that yet from what I have seen.
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The feel is quite different but power delivery on most trials bikes is a lot more linear so other than compression braking on a 4 stroke and few more lbs (6 to 10 depending on the bike) the difference isn't as noticeable. If you are close enough to do a ride with me I can bring our 2T 125 and my 4T 250 so you can compare how they feel...
FYI. there is a few trials riders I am aware of east of the Boise area depending on your location as well but no official club out that way like OMC.
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Boise OMC has a trials aria and there is a group of us that ride out in the area. PM me and I can setup a demo ride with you as I have a buddy bike you can try if your close enough?
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I had a little of that on my 07 4RT, as jrsunt said I cleaned it out, checked the valve clearance (was good) and changed the plug and it went back to normal again.
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There isn't anything that I can think of that wouldn't work on both as for external bling. Most of the differences are inside the engine or suspension and things like the foot peg hangers witch would swap between them and have the pegs sitting in a slightly different location.
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I haven't had this issue on ether of my 4RT's so have never checked into how this would be done.
I am aware that on most EFI throttle bodies there is usually a set screw or some other fixed stop that prevents it from going past the 100%. If you can find it its usually just an adjustment that isn't to hard to make.
If you can't find it I can take a look at the ECU/throttle bodies of my bikes and see if I can figure out...
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I also see a past post where you said something about it working if you put 12v to it? Are you saying that if you connect a 12v battery everything runs fine?
If that is the case it could be a number of things... a bad capacitor, a short in the system (had a fan motor short on my 07 causing a problem like this), the rectifier, or maybe something wrong with your stater... Not to point a finger at any of this if I misunderstood your post.
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If the ECU thinks the throttle is opening past 100%... You can test this by loosening the throttle cable enough so it will not pull it full open. If it then runs fine without issues you know it thinks its going past 100%.
However with the fact that you don't get steady RPM's when opening slow it sounds like that isn't likely the issue.
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Haven’t had mine long enough to know about that, however they seem about the same quality as my old Alpinestars and Gearne’s and would expect them to last about the same.
I do remember reading a few post about the first batch having a bit of quality control issues but all the recent posts I have seen as well as the few people I know with them seem to think they are decent...
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I am not sure I would go with different hangers on a 4RT/300RR, though upgrade to the pegs and bolts are fine in my mind.
As Lineaway indicated the frame can be broken if you put on stronger hangers and take a big hit. I would rather replace a set of bent hangers then have to weld a frame.
Hope that helps.
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Have a pair of the Alpinestars and also have flat feet. (Though I am not sure how mine would compare to yours... )
I like the protection they provide and the stiffer sole than the Gearne’s. The new Alpinestars are a touch narrower than the originals in the same size but not much and find them a more true to size fit.
They don’t cause me any pain though there was some brak-in time as they are stiffer than Gearne’s overall.
hope that helps...
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If you look close you can clearly see his hand on the bar still and finger on the front brake.
Definitely a spectator behind him leaning against the tree.
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I think a combination of correctly setting/inspecting and a rule change is what is needed myself, but if I only had one to pick from I would say correctly inspected/set sections would be the more important what ever the rules are...
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Not as fast but I find using a spray bottle of white vinegar over my helmet and then left to fully air out and then give it a good spray down with just water to remove the residual vinegar smell seems to disinfect mine fine.
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