jonnyc21

They are being cut to suit by the bike owners themselves. You would have to do the same if you wanted one. But you can't go wrong with the H&D MITANI 315 Rear mudguard (as stated by oni nou) if your after a clean install and look without the work.

Frame information would be the best, however I have a 2017 and it has a black front fender, the 2018 has a red one. Hope that helps.

Not sure if you can get this oil there but... We have good luck with Maxima MTL extra light 75w in my daughters 08 Gas Gas TXT Pro 125 transmission. its about the same as a 5-30 Mobile motor oil. And also use the fully synthetic Maxima 2T oil at 80:1 with excellent results for over 6 years.

I think you have it with keyboard error, autocorrect on phones and computers is more and more the cause of my mistakes on the forum...

Welcome to the group.

FYI: I have seen a rear tire shift on a trials bike at 3.5 psi and would have taken the valve stem off with the amount of shift. I think it was an older Dunlop 803 but don't remember for sure as it was some time ago so not impossible for it to happen, though I admit I have only ever seen it once.

I would see if you can correctly solve the problem and keep it tube less. The low pressures in trials with a tube will likely have you getting pinch flats frequently with a tube and will also need a rim lock witch would require drilling a second hole in the rim if you do that to prevent the tire from rotating and tearing the valve stem out. good luck making your decision.

Could be one, or the other, or both. However, I find more often than not when I would bottom out in the past it was my technique more than the suspension. If you are say 220 lbs (100kg / 16 stone) heaver springs might help but still technique is more important most of the time. Hope that helps.

I wasn't talking about how they actually scored there, was talking about how they are the only place that "supposedly" adopted the No Stop rules...

I think your hitting on at least part of the problem. How many other national events are No Stop... almost 0 last time I checked. The UK, world, who else? So if so few adopted it I wonder why we continue to see it in the world round? I have to agree with heffergm, haven't yet seen a post by him on this subject that I didn't approve of yet.

Interesting... when I hear something like "... rev them and then down to idle would take ages. Like they were pulling in air." my first thought is that bike needs to be jetted and adjusted. The one guy in our group that rides a 2018 (at least I think its a 2018) runs fine.

Your time limit is fixed, max out and you have your 5... Better than the current rules in my opinion. But I see your point, if a large number of the riders do this it makes everything feel slow.

Unlike the 5 that got changed to a clean this one could just have been missed by mistake... still feels painful when you consider the other though...

I wish everyone did it the way it’s done in Japan and Spain! love watching videos of there events.

Would like that myself, got a good scratch I would like to touch up on my 2017 300 RR.

Could be a lot of things... a lot of older bikes have a rim strip that might need cleaning or replacing and if so I would suggest considering a smear of RVT sealant around the edges to help. could be the valve stem has a leak in the valve core or crack if the valve core replacement should fix it, of stem is cracked it’s a pull the tire job to replace or find one of those quickStem replacements. You could have a torn bead on the tire, or a poorly fitting tire as there has been a few reports of some tires not working with some wheels. theres a few possible things. good luck

I agree with oni nou on forest riding pressure and will note that If your trail riding in sharp rocks at speed I would add a psi to each to prevent punctures.

the 315R's are great bikes, they ride nice, and are as easy to work on as any other trials bike I have done work on. There clutches can be a bit quick if they are not updated to a dimpled version or run a high quality oil like the ELF 740. They are harder to find parts for than the Beta's from what I have seen and the piston and rings are the hardest part to find from what I understand and other parts are going the same direction though not as bad yet. The older Beta's turn a little better but over all are about the same. They have a different clutch problem of often being sticky to the point of not wanting to disengage and this can require a well known Beta clutch fix of pulling apart the clutch and cleaning up the friction plates. Some older Beta's can also have corrosion in cover under the water pump that can force you to replace the cover or find a way to weld/patch things up. Both are good and if in good shape will be a lot of fun. Good luck and hope this helps.

1) How often do you damage or need to undergo repairs to the bike? (Give examples) Almost never, in 6 years I have replaced a rear brake peddle, rear fender, and a single lever. 2) How easy are these repairs to fix? Very easy to replace. 3) Do you ever hurt yourself when riding a trials bike? (Give examples) a few bumps and bruises from light falls where I land off my feet such as a tumble or on my butt. Worst being a bruised rib and a sprained wrist. 4) What, if anything, do you think could be done to improve the riders safety? Riders taking training to improve there riding. Most of my more pronounced incidents came when pushing myself before I new how to ride correctly sense taking a trials training my rider attentiveness went up and I have had less and less sever injuries sense. 5) Trials bikes have many safety features, do you think they go far enough to protect the rider? I personal believe they do. If riders want more protection than the bike offers they should get good quality riding gear and even the extra safety gear that is available. Funny but I have been hurt more often and much worse on my bicycle than I have ever been injured on my Trials motorcycle!

The lest expensive option is trying some different oil types in the gearbox, lever adjustment, lever replacement (some levers provide different angles changing force required). There is also the expensive option like the Clake One Light clutch. This allows you to adjust your lever pull to o a very customized setting for pull. Also: The more controversial options... The Montesa is a 6 spring clutch so it is possible to remove 2 like the Beta, however if your running the ELF oil I might suggest against it as it’s known to cause slipping in 4th and 5th. If you want to do that I would suggest changing oil to something like the Maxima MTL 75 as it will produce a less slip. Somthing else that could be considered is that the spring setup on the Montesa 300 RR are a bit stiffer. You could change the springs out for a set of 4 with the updated springs and caps of a 300 to get a touch more clamping force using 4 springs?

Will only make one comment about lifespan of 4T's in response to the more to ware out thought. I have a 2017 Montesa 300 RR as an upgrade to my 2007 Montesa 4RT 250. The 07 is still going strong and its over 10 years old... Sure doesn't seem to have an issue with longevity when well maintained. And as far as I can tell the 300 is stacking up to be the same. PS. Oil changes on a Montesa aren't hard but a bit of a pain as you have to pull the cover to change the oil filter.

I love my Montesa 300 RR, great bike. As indicated above, I don't really notice the extra weight when riding unless I get a bit to much out of sorts, but even then it doesn't bother me at all. I have had the chance to ride 2T bikes plenty and I would say that the 4T bikes are very different in there power and ride caricaturists so going back and forth is quite the adjustment. So if you really do decide to try a 4RT I will say you ether need to stick with it tell it works or just go with a 2T from the start. Based on your past of running Beta 2T I would think you would be happiest with a TRRS, as my best guess. I will note that I have heard a lot of people say the Beta's are a bit smother power than the TRRS's and of the two TRRS's owned in our little riding group (one 250 and one 300) I can say that the gentleman who picked up the 300 had a larger adjustment to the power from his GG from what he told me than the gal who picked up the 250 did from her GG. Hope that helps.

Yet another addition to your already growing collection... If I didn’t have the same addiction I might say you should get some help... however instead I am just jealous I can’t feed mine as often as you!

Bummer on the forks and levers... at least you got a good video of it.

I have both an 2007 and a 2017 and both use Dot 4. I am almost sure you have a swapped cap unless someone also changed out the master on you...