jonnyc21

Maybe, however... If it's a modern trials bike the main barrings are lubricated by the crank case oil and the only thing your concerned about getting the oil too are the rings and rod barring. Combine this with modern synthetic oil and 80:1 isn't as bad as it sounds. Consider the Vertigo, I seem to recall they say like 110-120:1 or something close. Remember however that if you don't want problems, that it must also be jetted well. in the end it's a personal call if you want to go for anything other than what the manufacturer recommends any way you look at it. My 2 cents.

I have seen pinging on a lean running bike fixed with a combination of premium fuel and re-jetting... Might not be the issue but worked on at lest one bike. Good luck.

You may not have, but our little group sure did. His name is Bob, he picked up a new 2-17 Montesa 260 and rides on a regular basis with us. I call that a win...

Reviewed the 2017 and 2018 specifications and I don't see where you would loose anything really worth the difference when considering 0% to get a 2017 over a 2018. The amount of change just isn't that big unless your going to compete. And even then I would go with a 2017 for less out of pocket. My 2 cents, and good luck!

I love my older 2007 4RT and my new 300 RR even more. I ride intermediate and wouldn't hesitate to suggest a 260 or 300 to anyone really interested in one. That being said, before you buy, I would suggest even if not planning to get into competition early, find a club and go check out an event. If you go and ask lots of questions you might get some test rides on a 4RT and/or some other bikes and it will help you see if it's really worth your time and $. Olso, in my opinion, if you want to be as good as the guy in the video in a year or less you will want to get hooked up with som other trials riders to learn from. Even without that some quality practice and you could get that in the first 6 to 12 months.

Also when using water and soap, very little soap is needed and use a thin layer to just barely float the sticker as you apply it. The intent with the soap is to brake down the surface tension of the water so it will come out from under the sticker easy and dry faster.

My daughter did great learning trials on a Beta 80 Sr (full sized wheels). Might be a little harder to find one but they come in the smaller wheel Jr version and the larger wheel Sr version, worked great from around 11 to 15 for her. Good luck.

Isn't the end all way but one thing I will do is buy new fenders (un-stickered) and then swap them for general riding so I can put the nice ones on for events or if I ever sell the bike. Also never a bad thing consider getting a new sticker kit to replace any stickers that get messed up over time.

Fun and lightweight don't make a keeper, just fun to play on from time to time...

If reliably is key then I would recommend Beta or Montesa as I (and my friends) have had the best luck with them. I do enjoy how light my wife's Gas Gas feels but I just enjoy the overall package of my Montesa more.

It's under the pump assembly in a space between the green stuff. You have to pull the pump to get at it.

Now that's not fair, tour taking away all my reasons to play dirty... wait, that's why I have a trials bike... so I can play dirty!!!

What year is the bike? Might give some more insight to what could be the problem... Might consider that plug change you indicated, always wort roiling out the small stuff. Other considerations, low on coolant so might be heating up the fuel, valve clearance, water pump same as coolant... just some things off the top of my head.

As indicated, condition is your most important thing. If they are in the same condition I admit I would go with the Sherco as the company has had better long term results in bike longevity and support. My 2 cents... for what it's worth.

Wow that seems extreme, I only seem to need master fluid change once a year and my clutch is still fine when I do it. Maybe I just don't push my bike as hard? On a more productive note, you are correct. If the fluid is compromised it could be the cause of pore clutch action for sure.

Any luck yet? Or still have a few things to go over first?

If I had a standard 260 with the R16V I would want to update to a modified Internal-Reservoir Ohlins by Randy Lewis of R Racing. Might also note I am in the US...

Both sides to tight or loose can see similar symptoms depending on what the clearance is and witch valve is in question. I don't remember off the top of my head what symptoms are directly connected to witch valve being in what condition but I have seen almost everything in the range on my old 74 beetle from tight to loose on both sides.

Really already covered above... if you like or need more support for the sole/arch of your foot AlpinStars, if feel and comfort is tops then Gaerne. As for helmet I would add to the above, fit, venting and protectiveness where the primary things I was interested in and the nicest ones I have seen for that are the Hebo Zone 4, Airoh TRR. I think one of the Jitsie's are rated good there too but don't remember what one. If your not riding in a very hot climate most of the time then it's just fit and protection I would guess. good luck.

You could always just spend the rest (or as much as possible) of the card the same day to prevent that.

I think it must have just been offline for a few, its back online now.

If the valve clearance is supper off then yes the hole range could be rough, however if its just one side or only slightly off you can see it more at one side of the range or the other.

Valve clearance?

Looks like the site isn't responding any more... maybe it got taken offline?

I admit maybe paranoia but I would be a bit skeptical myself. Though it would be nice if I was wrong...