jonnyc21

I don't have the diagnostics tool but am considering getting one. If you have changed the plug the only other consideration might be to go to the hotter plug as I have heard a few people say they work better than the standard one. On the cleaning comment, I don't know if it really helped but I cleaned the whole tank and tea bag filter even though they didn't look to bad. As for over fueling I have seen a few posts where people have used a different throttle body as a way to check the ECU isn't the problem and has been. Or as you have the tool you might be able to reset your ECU as a few have indicated doing so can also fix fuel issues. For reference the 4RT I was able to fix with this was my 07.

I fixed a problem like this by changing my spark plug... also cleaned the fuel pump pickup filter at the same time and it went away. best of luck.

one option on the 1800 would be an hour meter with an RPM function? If not you might be able to find a shop that would check it for you? and yes that 1800 really helps on starting the bike!

As you have seen a lot of comments on it's all about setup. a better question is what do you want it to be like and what type do you have and then we can give some input on what we have and how we got it that way so you can compare and decide what you want to try and/or do to get what your after or think you want. then if you like it great, if not you can undo it or try something different. I should have also indicated, if you don't have one then first try a few bikes and see what bike you like and then go from there. We can help you make ether type quick or progressive.

Welcome to the club! Great looking ride!

I understand that the parent organization(s) like the FIM and the promotor are not amateur, but that doesn't eliminate the issues created by the rest that are. So when we have observers that are paid and are the same ones at every event so the scoring can be consistent and maybe a paid course designer(s) that is also sent to each event ahead of time, etc. then I will believe the statement "Its not run by amateurs anymore.....", tell then its at least in part run by amateurs and has some inherent problems as a result. My 2 cents.

I agree with oni nou. you can also switch to a fast throttle tube, this will liven the bike up a lot and make the front seem lighter as it will pickup the front quicker. good luck.

If you use 10w40 I will recommend you make sure it's motorcycle oil as most standard 10w40 car oil isn't designed for use with clutch and gearboxes.

One of the best things you can do is take a class/training session. Worth every penny. Outside of this getting the bike setup correctly also really helps. And if you can't get a training in soon, pickup a DVD like the Ryan Young trials training video. I am sure lots of other people will chime in soon with other great advice!

Change the spark plug recently? If not might be worth a shot.

Here in the US many states have stickers for off road use. It's a lot like road use stickers... however with road stickers they go on a road number plate instead of the fork tube or head stock like the off road ones do. The number on the side is a serial number and is for bike identification in the case of theft and recorded during registration for street or off road stickers.

I always say go try some out if you can at a club event. If not then start at the smaller side and work your way up. However, at 15 stone and having past bike experience the 270 should be fine in the long run, just remember that it could get away from you quickly when things go wrong. To minimize things, as stated above, a slow throttle tube (black) and/or a flywheel weight will tame it down. You can also change sprockets depending. In the end it's about you learning and having fun so get what you think will let you do that. Good luck!

If it's a 300RR equivalent in Repsol colors I will be jealous...

It isn't the TRS to the Vertigo, however I have experienced the same thing between my Montesa and my wife's Gas Gas. The location of the center mass feels different so a wheelie or lifting the rear feel easier on one or the other. Where I can't say it will fix the issue for you one thing that can help is suspension adjustment. Example: I raised the front on my Montesa (by lowering the fork tubes in the trippls) and it got easier to bring the front up and mad the bike turn with less tucking but the back was harder to get up. Next I went up a small bit on the rear preload and the rear cums up better and the bike will tuck if I am quick on full lock turns in the soft yet I didn't seem to loose the easy wheelies. I would consider adjusting suspension (remembering to track where you started so you can get back/rest) and see if you can find a more middle ground. best of luck!

Beta and Montesa seem to think the traditional basket clutch is fine and I can't say it doesn't work. Find the best oil for your riding stile and maybe change the lever (different leverage point) and most of us mortal riders seem to do fine. On the other side of the fence a well setup diaphragm clutch can have super light pull and amazing action (hard or soft) depending on setup. My wife's Gas Gas is diaphragm and my Montesa is basket so I have played with both plenty. I like them both in different ways. But for me it's a wash if you ask witch is better.

I admit I haven't been on a 4 Ride, however having been on a 4T Scorpa T-Ride (Yamaha based engine) and have a seat for my 07 4RT (use it for the extra fuel storage under the seat on long trail rides) I suspect the below to be about the same as this experience. With the gears being spaced different between the 4 Ride and the 4RT and the foot peg position is a little different as well. I would expect the 4 Ride will be a little nicer for short road sections and trail riding than a 4RT with a seat. Much the same as the T-Ride was. Not sure if that helps but my thoughts any way.

I agree with oni nou, most stock springs are set for someone with a bit more mass in them. I would also suggest you lower the spring N/mm and up the damping. My 2 cents. Good luck.

I agree with Andy, the video was great and the music was awesome! Thanks for the video

Have you checked your valve clearance? I had this on a different bike because the clearance was to tight and when warm it would leave the valve open just a crack... good luck.

+1 for Dennis if you haven't tried him yet.

If I could get a 4 Ride here in the US I would do the same update.

that's a different issue then I thought. You might look looking at MX bars as they have a different sweep in them than trials bars. Can't say they will work but worth an online search I bet.

Trials boots and a good trials helmet have been the best gear in my opinion... unless you're taking transmission gear... when I got a chance to ride my friends JTX 270 it was about the same as most trials bikes. Start with small moves like figure 8's in 1st tell you can get full lock turns, then do the same thing in 2nd gear, and at least in 3rd as well. Continue using every gear you can during practice for anything. Even if it sounds strange to hear me say this, you will find there are many counter intuitive situations when riding trials where you may think 1st would be better but 2nd is smoother or 1st gives a better result on a bigger up because you need more throttle and instant hit than 2nd can give. good luck and experiment as much as you can tell you find your own riding stile and comfort zone.

My 2 cents would be... as long as I could fabricate something small with the same resistance that could be plugged in to replace the side stand switch and keep the bike in a state so I can re-attach the switch later I would go that route. if you can't do that without cutting into the harness I would tuck the switch out of the way zip-tied (or otherwise) so it couldn't get into the down position. Last would be to cut into the harness and patch in anything. good luck what ever direction you end up going.