jonnyc21

It isn't the TRS to the Vertigo, however I have experienced the same thing between my Montesa and my wife's Gas Gas. The location of the center mass feels different so a wheelie or lifting the rear feel easier on one or the other. Where I can't say it will fix the issue for you one thing that can help is suspension adjustment. Example: I raised the front on my Montesa (by lowering the fork tubes in the trippls) and it got easier to bring the front up and mad the bike turn with less tucking but the back was harder to get up. Next I went up a small bit on the rear preload and the rear cums up better and the bike will tuck if I am quick on full lock turns in the soft yet I didn't seem to loose the easy wheelies. I would consider adjusting suspension (remembering to track where you started so you can get back/rest) and see if you can find a more middle ground. best of luck!

Beta and Montesa seem to think the traditional basket clutch is fine and I can't say it doesn't work. Find the best oil for your riding stile and maybe change the lever (different leverage point) and most of us mortal riders seem to do fine. On the other side of the fence a well setup diaphragm clutch can have super light pull and amazing action (hard or soft) depending on setup. My wife's Gas Gas is diaphragm and my Montesa is basket so I have played with both plenty. I like them both in different ways. But for me it's a wash if you ask witch is better.

I admit I haven't been on a 4 Ride, however having been on a 4T Scorpa T-Ride (Yamaha based engine) and have a seat for my 07 4RT (use it for the extra fuel storage under the seat on long trail rides) I suspect the below to be about the same as this experience. With the gears being spaced different between the 4 Ride and the 4RT and the foot peg position is a little different as well. I would expect the 4 Ride will be a little nicer for short road sections and trail riding than a 4RT with a seat. Much the same as the T-Ride was. Not sure if that helps but my thoughts any way.

I agree with oni nou, most stock springs are set for someone with a bit more mass in them. I would also suggest you lower the spring N/mm and up the damping. My 2 cents. Good luck.

I agree with Andy, the video was great and the music was awesome! Thanks for the video

Have you checked your valve clearance? I had this on a different bike because the clearance was to tight and when warm it would leave the valve open just a crack... good luck.

+1 for Dennis if you haven't tried him yet.

If I could get a 4 Ride here in the US I would do the same update.

that's a different issue then I thought. You might look looking at MX bars as they have a different sweep in them than trials bars. Can't say they will work but worth an online search I bet.

Trials boots and a good trials helmet have been the best gear in my opinion... unless you're taking transmission gear... when I got a chance to ride my friends JTX 270 it was about the same as most trials bikes. Start with small moves like figure 8's in 1st tell you can get full lock turns, then do the same thing in 2nd gear, and at least in 3rd as well. Continue using every gear you can during practice for anything. Even if it sounds strange to hear me say this, you will find there are many counter intuitive situations when riding trials where you may think 1st would be better but 2nd is smoother or 1st gives a better result on a bigger up because you need more throttle and instant hit than 2nd can give. good luck and experiment as much as you can tell you find your own riding stile and comfort zone.

My 2 cents would be... as long as I could fabricate something small with the same resistance that could be plugged in to replace the side stand switch and keep the bike in a state so I can re-attach the switch later I would go that route. if you can't do that without cutting into the harness I would tuck the switch out of the way zip-tied (or otherwise) so it couldn't get into the down position. Last would be to cut into the harness and patch in anything. good luck what ever direction you end up going.

Have you also checked on the other forum? http://advrider.com/index.php?forums/trials.73/

If your a true beginner as in no motorcycle experience then the slow tube might be worth considering, however if your just a beginner to trials (or brave) then I would give the fast tube a try. The trick with a fast tube and beginner is they often will grab the throttle with a bent wrist (rotated up) trying to be ready to give it a good twist. And this can lead to over turning it and what is called whiskey throttle or a runaway bike. If you can set the brake and clutch levers up just a little below level then use one finger on the front brake lever and then grab the throttle with a flat wrist (or as flats as possible) you will find it takes more effort to get a good turn without being in the correct body position. This then improved hand position helps you remember your stance, and when wrong helps prevent over turning the throttle. And as your body position improves so dose your ability to get a bigger twist for bigger moves without loosing the bike or yourself.

There is also a good chance you might have a dealer/supplier in England but I have ordered things from jbanyeres and had good service even here in the US...

Everything I have researched shows that the trials bicycle skills are not a direct transfer for outdoor motorcycle trials but better for indoor trials. As stated by "oni nou" they are good for fitness and concentration, and I would add that they do help maintain balance. Also if your willing to riding them frequently they are quicker to get out and play on for a short ride, and last if your in town (or if your neighborhood isn't accepting of motorcycles in the yard) they can be an easy way to ride often without causing issues. I have one and enjoy it, however it isn't a trials motorcycle and can't say everyone should get one.

For the US I like http://overlandtrail.biz/ (voice call is best) In Europe I might try https://jbanyeres.com/en/ good luck.

I would suspect the "2 off them were very slightly distorted by 0.004" as your issue. if you want to go the inexpensive rout then replace them and you should have a good chance it will be fixed. However if you want to be sure its 100% for as long as possible then just replace the pack with an updated version witch should improve the progressive aspect of the clutch as well as eliminate the drag. (would likely let you run less expensive oil with the same result as well if you wanted) I admit as long as the friction plates where in spec I would swap the two plates and keep running the ELF oil, however if they are getting close to the limits I would likely just swap everything out. My 2 cents. Good luck.

Hear good things about the standard Beta 250's being very docile... but even more so the standard 250 4T. I would say that a well setup 250 of any of the brands would do well however. You can always add a black/slow throttle tube, a fly wheel weight, and/or gearing changes. If it was me I think if I couldn't get a 200 I would go with the Beta 250 4T, but that's opinion. good luck.

Unless you have a programmable throttle body you will not be able to re-map your bike. Something like this: https://jbanyeres.com/en/engine/115-ecu-hrc-programable-2-mapas-para-kits-250-260-280.html

I never had an XR400R (took a short ride on one, but not long enough to know how well they grip) so can't speak to the comparison, however for trials bikes I guess it could be quite different for everyone. On that note I find it interesting... I went from a 2T (Gas Gas) to my 07 4RT and found I did better over all, traction, control in the turns, feel of the clutch, throttle response, etc. all improved without me having to work any harder than on the 2T. To each there own I guess... --- On that note, riffraffretro if you love 2T bikes there is a good chance that it would be a good idea if you could find someone with a Montesa 4RT 260 or 300 that would be able to let you get a good ride on one before considering to buy one. My 2 cents. Good luck.

Ok, I am glad I switched it over to the fast tube. After riding my 07 4RT for years with the quick throttle I can say that my brain sure expected it and was the largest cause of the 300RR feeling so much like my 07. I will try and remember to post of a better review of the 300 once I have had a bit more time on it with the fast throttle tube.

I use a high quality fully synthetic motorcycle oil 10-40 for the engine and the ELF HTX 740 for the transmission. However, I know others using ATF with good success in the transition, and if I was going to try something else for the transition I think the GRO extreme has the closet viscosity and heat ratings to the ELF but isn't available in the US.

The tallest ones I know about are the Jitsie's, they have some that are up to a 6" bend/rise/upsweet.

Also, if anyone out there with a 300RR has swapped to a fast tube as well let me know your experience.

Oh, and most bikes I have seen use 4.5" or 5" bars so 5.5" or 6" would be your top end. I know Jitsie makes up to 6"...