jonnyc21

For me the big helper is hydration at least a day before I use a couple of Liquid I.V.'s in a 30 oz. bottle of water and drink that with extra water trying to total at least 100 oz in that pre-ride day and then do a min of 100 oz per day of the event with the same 30 oz. of water to the Liquid I.V.'s each ride day or more if its hot and I am really working hard. As for food I just try to keep the food healthy with a mix of good carbs to fats for the first couple days before and lean a bit more on the carbs side for the day of the event and a mixed dinner each night during the event. Seems to work well enough for me.

I have had both a number of friends as well as seen several others online have issues with them. It seems to be inconsistencies in the tip shape and/or thread cut that can cause it. Most of the ones I have seen issues with have loose threads and air can get by them, but the tip shape can make it hard to get the adjustment spot on as well. Not all of them have issues but its been often enough for my buddies and I that a quick trouble shooting check is to go back to stock and see if it sorts out the issues. If it doesn't fix the issue I usually work on jetting first then go back to the aftermarket adjusters after I get the bike running well and make sure the bike still runs good. In the end it isn't to hard to swap them in and out so its one of the easier checks and has had a high enough positive result set when I have done it that I find it worth the suggestion. PS. come to think of it a touch of some thread tape might work to seal up threads... not sure on that but maybe worth consideration at any rate.

Once you are done doing that let us all know how things are going and I am sure someone here can provide some good feedback on next steps if needed.

Dose it have an aftermarket adjuster screw for the idle or mixture? They can often cause issues.

Just found this, seems like a good video on chain lube.

I have found that on O-Ring chains I can get away with just some WD40 to clean the chain works great and to keep it simple a very light spray with some lube to keep the rings from drying out works great for basic maintenance but will put it in some gear oil to sit over night if I pull it off for a full clean job. Standard non-O-Ring chains I will do the same if I feel like it needs a bit extra in the middle if an event, in-between events I clean and drop the chain in a bucket of gear oil to make sure it gets something a bit heavier into the rollers between events. Seems to work well for me for chain life. I am sure there is a lot of other ways to do it that work as well or even better.

If its a few drips in transit or when the bike is off and your hopping I would say it isn't a big deal. If you really want it to stop my best guess would be that the float adjustment is right on the edge of high. If I still had our Gas Gas and it was doing this I would just turn off the fuel and run it a bit before putting it away it if I was planning to transport it soon or do any engine off balance practice just to lower the fuel level myself. Good luck what ever you decide to do.

It's always good to double check the simple things just in case but good to hear you know the cause and good luck with a rebuild at some point.

Just checking but have you already double checked the front brake lever adjustment? If somehow you have little to no play in the adjustment screw between the lever the master cylinder piston it can cause what your talking about as well. Just worth backing that out a touch and double checking everything if you haven't already. Other than that turbofurball's post is excellent.

Classic or modern bike? Most modern trials bikes don't have frame support under the engine so I wouldn't think they would work well for them. However a lot of classic trials bikes do and I could see that working for them, however as I ride modern bikes I wouldn't know if anyone makes them for classic bikes. Good luck.

Best thing I ever did for my wife was get her a 125 to start on. I also agree the Montesa if its in good shape would be a great option considering you have been on bigger bikes like a KTM 300. If you can't find a good 125 for a nice price a Beta 80 with the larger 21" 18" wheels is a good option as well. Good luck.

I used to run 80:1 for both our 08 Gas Gas 125 and our 06 Beta 80 without any issues ever. I am not going to say you should follow my lead on this one but at least you can use it as a data point for your considerations.

How often I have to do the reset varies on a few things but I usually have to do it at least once per ride. Most commonly because I stalled it and it didn't like that. If it gets any worse maybe give it an extra 50-100 RPM increase to see if that helps? All bikes have there individual quirks so that may or may not help but might be worth a try if it is bothering you.

True, he would need a full flush if switching to engine ice. As for not needed, I agree it isn't needed, but I prefer having my fan run less myself and just switched it to ice because it was time to flush the system anyway and so took the opportunity to do so at the same time. Working well for me and I will keep using it myself.

My fan runs a lot on both my 4RT and my 300 RR, I was able to get it to run a little less by switching out for "Engine Ice High Performance Coolant" it seems to do a little better heat management than the stock Honda coolant in my experience but other than that the bikes seem to run fine and have never had a problem so figure its just the way they are. Example of what I have been using for reference. (No affiliation: https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/engine-ice-high-performance-coolant?sku_id=167223)

Yes the ecu is that affected by what the idle is set at. Both my 07 4RT and my 17 300RR will be very hard to start if I don't have them set to ~1800.

My only advice is if you don't like working on the bike much I would avoid older Gas Gas bikes (can't speak to new ones) the 08 Gas Gas 125 I had and my buddies 06 Gas Gas 280 always needed more work than our other bikes. (07 Montesa 4RT, 06 Beta 80 Sr, 17 Montesa 300 RR) Like the way the Gas Gas rides and feels, (125 & 280) was a great bike just always had some little thing I had to do with it to keep it n good shape more so than the others. hope that helps. PS. Condition maters so a good shape Gas Gas would still be better than a beetup of other brands.

About the only thing I have ever seen solid information on about improved scavenging and heat is ceramic coating of the inside of a header/pipe. I know that different metals are different in how they handle heat but considering that most get titanium for weight I wouldn't be able to say much about scavenging and heat control. Good luck with what ever direction you end up going and if you do try a titanium header I would be very interested in the outcome.

That is good news at least you got a little run time. If it started after playing with the plug cap, maybe attempt to pull the cap off and check to make sure it has a good seat to the plug wire? I wouldn't expect it to be an issue on a newer bike but I have had issues with them in the past so might just need to be twisted on a bit tighter to get a good connection? Otherwise check the ground wires/connections to the coil as they might be loose and playing with the plug cap/wire jiggled them? Good luck.

No valve clearance wouldn't cause a no spark issue, however it could cause a no start issue. If you are sure you don't have spark that wouldn't be your problem.

Wondering on progress with this one? Not sure what else to suggest but If all else has failed maybe time to start double checking all of the ground wires, check valve clearances, pull the fuel pump and run 12v to it to see if its running, etc. Really hoping you have had some luck on it.

Not sure if it kills spark or fuel, though I am on the side of thinking fuel as couple of full throttle kick overs dose the reset and I would think you would want to purge excess fuel from the system before attempting a restart from a stall or some other unexpected bike stop issue. (could be both I suppose)

Good catch, I forgot to consider a faulty kill switch or lanyard, I had a bad lanyard get me once, easy to disconnect and check. Making sure I am clear on what I was saying in relation to play in the throttle cable; I agree if there is even a little play it shouldn't be a factor, however if it is tight enough or pinched and not letting it return back to closed/0 the ECU on both my 07 4RT and my 17 300RR will prevent them from starting. That is why its important not to apply any throttle when starting the bike. On a different note, I did once do some work on my 07 and forgot to re-connect the power to the fuel pump, took me a about an hour of headache that next weekend to figure out what I had done before I was able to get the bike started.

I agree with Lineway turn the tick-over/idle out about 1 more turn than it already was and then do a reset and try and start it again. If it even kind of kicks over go 1/2 more and try again. If it starts get a tachometer and set it to 1800-1900. Another common issue I have seen that is easy to check is that your throttle cable isn't slightly tight, if its even just a little tight it will keep the bike from starting, if you are not 100% sure make it a little extra loose and try a reset and start again. If still nothing you can attempt to see if maybe its getting a negative throttle setting in the ECU by putting a thin washer behind the throttle stop to see if that 0's the ECU and lets it start. (PS. this is not a common fault, just in the same vane is the tight cable) After all that I would then start looking at things like a bad ground, loose connectors, power to the injector or fuel pump, etc. Good luck.

Well when I look at parts lists for the 2023 4 Ride and a 2020/21 4RT 260 (When 260 still had an option for the R16V shock) and also checked the 2023 4RT 260 but it looks like it has a Showa so not thinking it counts, I see the complete rear shock, shock spring, and even shock body all have different part numbers. So knowing the fronts are different the rear also being different likely would account for the difference. 2023 4 Ride Complete Shock: 52400-NN4-L80 Shock Spring: 52401-NN4-L80 Shock Damper: 52410-NN4-L80 2022/21 4RT 260 Complete Shock: 52400-NN4-K11 Shock Spring: 52401-NN4-J10 Shock Damper: 52410-NN4-K10 Or maybe a better comparison would be the 2020/21 4 Ride to the 2020/21 4RT? didn't look that up... maybe the parts are the same between them? Okay I just looked up 2020/21 both bikes and compared the shocks, springs, damper, and linkage parts (dog bone & connecting plates/arms) are all the same part numbers... the difference might be the swing arms as they are different part numbers... however because the 4 Ride is showing as Polished without having each to measure I can't say for sure. 2020/21 for both. 4 Ride 52100-NN4-L80 SWINGARM ASSY. POLISHED 4RT 52100-NN4-J10 SWINGARM ASSY (ED/3ED) 52100-NN4-J20 SWINGARM ASSY (2ED/4ED)