jonnyc21

It's always good to double check the simple things just in case but good to hear you know the cause and good luck with a rebuild at some point.

Just checking but have you already double checked the front brake lever adjustment? If somehow you have little to no play in the adjustment screw between the lever the master cylinder piston it can cause what your talking about as well. Just worth backing that out a touch and double checking everything if you haven't already. Other than that turbofurball's post is excellent.

Classic or modern bike? Most modern trials bikes don't have frame support under the engine so I wouldn't think they would work well for them. However a lot of classic trials bikes do and I could see that working for them, however as I ride modern bikes I wouldn't know if anyone makes them for classic bikes. Good luck.

Best thing I ever did for my wife was get her a 125 to start on. I also agree the Montesa if its in good shape would be a great option considering you have been on bigger bikes like a KTM 300. If you can't find a good 125 for a nice price a Beta 80 with the larger 21" 18" wheels is a good option as well. Good luck.

I used to run 80:1 for both our 08 Gas Gas 125 and our 06 Beta 80 without any issues ever. I am not going to say you should follow my lead on this one but at least you can use it as a data point for your considerations.

How often I have to do the reset varies on a few things but I usually have to do it at least once per ride. Most commonly because I stalled it and it didn't like that. If it gets any worse maybe give it an extra 50-100 RPM increase to see if that helps? All bikes have there individual quirks so that may or may not help but might be worth a try if it is bothering you.

True, he would need a full flush if switching to engine ice. As for not needed, I agree it isn't needed, but I prefer having my fan run less myself and just switched it to ice because it was time to flush the system anyway and so took the opportunity to do so at the same time. Working well for me and I will keep using it myself.

My fan runs a lot on both my 4RT and my 300 RR, I was able to get it to run a little less by switching out for "Engine Ice High Performance Coolant" it seems to do a little better heat management than the stock Honda coolant in my experience but other than that the bikes seem to run fine and have never had a problem so figure its just the way they are. Example of what I have been using for reference. (No affiliation: https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/engine-ice-high-performance-coolant?sku_id=167223)

Yes the ecu is that affected by what the idle is set at. Both my 07 4RT and my 17 300RR will be very hard to start if I don't have them set to ~1800.

My only advice is if you don't like working on the bike much I would avoid older Gas Gas bikes (can't speak to new ones) the 08 Gas Gas 125 I had and my buddies 06 Gas Gas 280 always needed more work than our other bikes. (07 Montesa 4RT, 06 Beta 80 Sr, 17 Montesa 300 RR) Like the way the Gas Gas rides and feels, (125 & 280) was a great bike just always had some little thing I had to do with it to keep it n good shape more so than the others. hope that helps. PS. Condition maters so a good shape Gas Gas would still be better than a beetup of other brands.

About the only thing I have ever seen solid information on about improved scavenging and heat is ceramic coating of the inside of a header/pipe. I know that different metals are different in how they handle heat but considering that most get titanium for weight I wouldn't be able to say much about scavenging and heat control. Good luck with what ever direction you end up going and if you do try a titanium header I would be very interested in the outcome.

That is good news at least you got a little run time. If it started after playing with the plug cap, maybe attempt to pull the cap off and check to make sure it has a good seat to the plug wire? I wouldn't expect it to be an issue on a newer bike but I have had issues with them in the past so might just need to be twisted on a bit tighter to get a good connection? Otherwise check the ground wires/connections to the coil as they might be loose and playing with the plug cap/wire jiggled them? Good luck.

No valve clearance wouldn't cause a no spark issue, however it could cause a no start issue. If you are sure you don't have spark that wouldn't be your problem.

Wondering on progress with this one? Not sure what else to suggest but If all else has failed maybe time to start double checking all of the ground wires, check valve clearances, pull the fuel pump and run 12v to it to see if its running, etc. Really hoping you have had some luck on it.

Not sure if it kills spark or fuel, though I am on the side of thinking fuel as couple of full throttle kick overs dose the reset and I would think you would want to purge excess fuel from the system before attempting a restart from a stall or some other unexpected bike stop issue. (could be both I suppose)

Good catch, I forgot to consider a faulty kill switch or lanyard, I had a bad lanyard get me once, easy to disconnect and check. Making sure I am clear on what I was saying in relation to play in the throttle cable; I agree if there is even a little play it shouldn't be a factor, however if it is tight enough or pinched and not letting it return back to closed/0 the ECU on both my 07 4RT and my 17 300RR will prevent them from starting. That is why its important not to apply any throttle when starting the bike. On a different note, I did once do some work on my 07 and forgot to re-connect the power to the fuel pump, took me a about an hour of headache that next weekend to figure out what I had done before I was able to get the bike started.

I agree with Lineway turn the tick-over/idle out about 1 more turn than it already was and then do a reset and try and start it again. If it even kind of kicks over go 1/2 more and try again. If it starts get a tachometer and set it to 1800-1900. Another common issue I have seen that is easy to check is that your throttle cable isn't slightly tight, if its even just a little tight it will keep the bike from starting, if you are not 100% sure make it a little extra loose and try a reset and start again. If still nothing you can attempt to see if maybe its getting a negative throttle setting in the ECU by putting a thin washer behind the throttle stop to see if that 0's the ECU and lets it start. (PS. this is not a common fault, just in the same vane is the tight cable) After all that I would then start looking at things like a bad ground, loose connectors, power to the injector or fuel pump, etc. Good luck.

Well when I look at parts lists for the 2023 4 Ride and a 2020/21 4RT 260 (When 260 still had an option for the R16V shock) and also checked the 2023 4RT 260 but it looks like it has a Showa so not thinking it counts, I see the complete rear shock, shock spring, and even shock body all have different part numbers. So knowing the fronts are different the rear also being different likely would account for the difference. 2023 4 Ride Complete Shock: 52400-NN4-L80 Shock Spring: 52401-NN4-L80 Shock Damper: 52410-NN4-L80 2022/21 4RT 260 Complete Shock: 52400-NN4-K11 Shock Spring: 52401-NN4-J10 Shock Damper: 52410-NN4-K10 Or maybe a better comparison would be the 2020/21 4 Ride to the 2020/21 4RT? didn't look that up... maybe the parts are the same between them? Okay I just looked up 2020/21 both bikes and compared the shocks, springs, damper, and linkage parts (dog bone & connecting plates/arms) are all the same part numbers... the difference might be the swing arms as they are different part numbers... however because the 4 Ride is showing as Polished without having each to measure I can't say for sure. 2020/21 for both. 4 Ride 52100-NN4-L80 SWINGARM ASSY. POLISHED 4RT 52100-NN4-J10 SWINGARM ASSY (ED/3ED) 52100-NN4-J20 SWINGARM ASSY (2ED/4ED)

I am on a 2017 Montesa 300 RR, put mine on the coolant hose right from the start and haven't had any issues with damage yet. I can't recommended following my lead but its working for me and I plan to keep it this way unless something unexpected happens. Good luck. PS. I rotated my switch up so it is less likely to get bumped by my leg or a crash.

I found that the map switch didn't seem to make a lot of a difference for me tell I swapped out the throttle tube from the black/slow to a white/fast tube. At that point the difference between the wet and dry map settings became much more noticeable in my option. Hope that helps.

Well from Google Translate I see that Cota = "Level" in English so maybe it was just intended to be interpreted as "Montesa Level"? Implication that if you rode a Montesa you would up your game/level? I know that isn't a great guess but other than that I really wouldn't know. Hoping someone else might know and chime in on this one.

Like Chris I lowered tire pressure to near 0 on both tires. I think I put the front at like 2 psi and the rear at 0, then once I was able to do it consistently I added 2 psi to the front and 1 - 1.5 psi to the rear then spent time on it tell I felt really good and then repeated tell I ended at something like 8 front and 5 rear. I know that isn't riding pressure but I found that it really helped me to get it better and then from that point on I would run riding pressure when practicing and had a much better time when doing it out riding after that. Good luck.

One of the benefits with the Montesa is that the engine and the transmission oil is separate so if you want to play a little with amount for how the clutch response, as I know some have, I suspect it shouldn't cause to much of an issue to set it a little lower (not to much as noted though). On that note I have done a little testing with different oils in my 07 4RT and my 17 300RR and in the process did end up with a little low on the transmission once but didn't find it made much of a difference. I found that the type of oil made a much bigger difference in how the clutch felt than the amount did. I have had the best results with the ELF HTX740 and the NILS Clutch Trial and I suspect I could get even better results if I switched out the plates to the after market dimpled set. Hope that helps a little on the perspective side of the fence. good luck.

True, but still what about everyone outside the country that can't attend but would if they had the $ or where closer. Would still be fantastic if they could give us something, heck I would even be okay with online later that day or the next day if I could. I can still hope they might be willing to start streaming it sooner at some point.

I wonder if the amount of extra tech and experience needed to live stream has an extra cost they are not willing to incur? If so I wish they would have/or could have considered maybe some way to have people advance pay to help cover the cost or help them know if enough people are interested so they could have done it? Maybe they could have let cub members get a discount on live stream cost and non-memebers a full price option? Maybe they could have more members setup with membership tiers that includes live stream on the gold membership and standard gets it a week later or pay a onetime per-stream cost? Just seems like they could have done something more to provide it for us live if they had put a little more thought into it.