jonnyc21

You might try a 315R thread down in the Montesa section... and no not all are the same, however if your 315R has Showa forks you might be able to use one for a Showa 4RT?

I am rooting for you!

Give it a check? Good luck... Check & Test a Capacitor By Analog Multimeter ( AVO = Ampere, voltage, Ohm Meter ) Make sure the suspected capacitor is fully discharged. Take an AVO meter. Select analog meter on OHM (Always, select the higher range of Ohms). Connect the Meter leads to the Capacitor terminals. Note The reading and Compare with the following results. Short Capacitors: Shorted Capacitor will show very low Resistance. Open Capacitors: An Open Capacitor will not show any movement (Deflection) on OHM meter Screen. Good Capacitors: Initially, it will show low resistance, and then gradually increases toward the infinite. It means that Capacitor is in Good Condition Test & Check a Capacitor By a Digital Multimeter Make sure the capacitor is discharged. Set the meter on Ohm range (Set it at lease 1000Ohm = 1k). Connect the Meter leads to the Capacitor terminals. Digital meter will show some numbers for a second. Note the reading. And then immediately it will return to the OL (Open Line). Every attempt of Step 2 will show the same result as was in step 4 and Step 5. It’s mean that Capacitor is in Good Condition. If there is no Change, then Capacitor is dead. Checking Capacitor By Multimeter in the capacitance Mode Note: You can do this test with a multimeter if you have a Capacitance meter on your multimeter. Also, this method is good for tiny capacitors. Make sure the capacitor is fully discharged. Remove the capacitors from board or circuit. Now Select “Capacitance” on your multimeter. Now connect the capacitor terminal to the multimeter leads. If the reading is near to the actual value of the capacitor (i.e. the printed value on the Capacitor container box). Then the capacitor is in good condition. (Note that the reading may be less than the actual value of the capacitor (the printed value on the Capacitor container box). If you read a significantly lower capacitance or none at all, then capacitor is dead and you should change it.

You have a good start your basics are close... I agree with jrsunt... Go slower, inching forward at the most, more compression on the suspension (jump on it hard) then half clutch first and more front wheel punch and then your second full clutch out with the second bit of throttle, if your near stalling on top with very little forward motion your closer to a correct double blip. Once you get that if you need more momentum after the blip you can add it in with very little extra effort. With your current progress I bet you will have it in no time. Keep at it!

You can get Ceiling Mount Industrial Heaters that are electric and work well for most home shops/garages.

My short 2 cent responce. If you want the best get the X-Lite at the extra expence, if you want the best bang for your money the new 803GP's are almost as good as the X-Lite but not near as expensive. Good luck.

In my experience the comfort and venting are bigger details then how many grams it is. And on that note, if it was me and the price was even close I am still getting the better fitting helmet even if it's more grams. Now if I had two that where about the same fit and comfort level and one was lighter and close in cost, I would be willing to pay a bit more to reduce the load on my head. Now if it was more than say around a 25% jump in price... maybe not so willing to save the grams... My 2 cents.

It isn't really about fuel volume as much as lack of air volume. The less air the more affective everything gets started, the more air you have the longer it takes to generate the needed suction.

Have you checked that tank, vent and filler tube are not blocked or have an air leak? If they are fine then the next thing to look at would be the main tanks cap and seal, if it isn't sealing well your not getting the suction you need as the fuel drains from the tank to create the syphon you need. They are a really basic system so the only other option would be if you don't have the needed volume in the main tank to get the syphon started?... Good luck.

I would suspect it was using the wrong kind of oil based on only 20 hours of use. And yes if you know what type of oil was in the bike please let us all know so we can avoid it.

On the map switch, my wife's 08 125 seems to make a difference at the higher RPMs but the newer ones seem that be more pronounced at lower RPMs but I still felt it wasn't a big change unless middle of the RPMs at least. My 2 cents.

For reference my wife has an 08 Gas Gas TXT Pro 125 and I have an 07 Montesa 4RT (250), we got her bike first and spent my first 6 months on her bike and being the same 80kg you are that little 125 got me first place at every event I went to tell we got me my bike and I jumped a class to make it more challenging. Over all I like the 250 better for my size but the 125 was a great bike and I would still be happy riding it today if the wife hadn't ended up liking trials and we stayed with just the one bike. So to sum it up, ether will do fine. Its all about getting on one and rinding them both before making the call if you can. At your size a 250 that is setup well on jetting with good settings on the bars and lever ajustments would be a great bike. As sujested a slow throttle tube maybe a good idea but might not be needed as you have past experience. Good luck.

I suspect its as indicated by heffergm. Though not TRS... I have seen the same, two bikes with the same brake components not feeling the same. It was a matter of both adjusting them and a fresh bleed getting air out and then spot on for both. (GasGas 125 and same year 280)

Very interesting... not sure if I like or hate it yet. hmmm

Sure sounds like the regulator or injector to me as well with that update. Maybe try some injector cleaner (I like seafoam) in a tank or two and get it running for a good long ride or two and see if the injection issue clears up before replacing parts? Good luck!

I am wondering if you have been able to turn up the idel/tick over speed and see if that helps yet? Any other information you have been able to figure out? any changes or other data that might help based on some of the other comments?

It's being hosted at Hualapai Mountain Park about 25 min outside of town from what I have been able to figure out. FYI: Hualapai Mountain Park and the only near by lodge are completely reserved for the event staff and participants so you are stuck sleeping in our car if you want anything close than in town.

Have you tried turning the tick over up to see if it's just not getting the correct ECU result when starting?

Dose the front brake lever have some free play in it before it contacts the cylinder? If not the first thing to do is adjust a small amount of play in the lever. If that doesn't fix it pull the lever and check that it isn't frozen as indicated by Jimmy. On the rear brake, bleed the system and see if that helps. I had the best luck doing a reverse bleeding process but even a good job doing it the traditional fashion should at least get enough of a result to know if you have a bad master or just some air in the line.

Ah the wonder of wireless, if only I could get a Bluetooth connected PTB for my Montesa and future 300RR. I am sure it would be for the most part wasted on me but would still be way cool to have the bragging rights on that one. LOL

Sounds to me like it might be time to try a different bike...

My daughters 06 Beta Rev 80 has the same issue, the longer between rides and oil changes the more often it happens. Just a little riding with the clutch pulled in an it sorts its self every time. As you indicated when it starts happening a lot in short order I change the oil and its better.

No the production bikes are all single plug.

I am not sure about what other people see, but when you look at the angle of the hill in comparison to the trees its crazy steep. You also see a lot of people slipping down the hill most of the video... I would love to run a hill like that on my modern bike just for the fun of it...

I am afraid my number of clicks will not help as I am running 2.5 fork oil in both front and rear instead of 5.0. (Had the both serviced and changed). I could get the spring preload settings though? Might be a week before I can though as I have riding plans for this weekend...