jonnyc21

I will check my daughters 06 Rev 80 tonight if I can remember and post back.

For reference I have a Montesa 4RT, wife has a Gas Gas 125, and daughter has a Beta Rev 80. What is the correct interval for changing gearbox oil? (Depends on the bike and how hard you are on it, most I would say have a 15 hour interval, some up to 30. More often is good) What is the best way to clean/lube a chain? (I like the remove, soak in closed container of solvent re-lube and place back on bike, but it's personal preference really.) What sort of life should I expect from tyres/chain/wheel bearings/head bearings/brake pads and any other consumables? (All about, brand, usage, and preference. Example: I am on year 4 and have only re-greased all my barrings except one replacement in the rear linkage, two sets of brake pads and am just about to replace my chain for the first time but the last year hasn't been lots of riding). I've seen a few people quoting life in hours. How do you measure "hours" on a trials bike? (Hour meter hooked to the bike, easy to get one) What other frequent (or infrequent) maintenance tasks have I missed? (Cleaned the fuel tank and filter once, and replaced the grips once).

Can't say its the same for a Sherco, however I found an artical for the 2017 Beta Evo 125 2T. I would think the Sherco would be close, then the next question would be how much power dose the bike draw before a headlight... Ignition: Electronic Hidria 12V - 110W http://www.rocklandwheels.ca/2017-beta-evo-2t-125-inventory.htm?id=24488197 expanded the section titled "2017 EVO 2T 125 Overview & Specs"

Most MX and Enduro bikes don't get hurtled into the air at rocks and boulders with faster suspension compression and rebound settings... I could guess this typical trials type riding might have some connection to lack of tensioner? I don't claim the above is correct but might be a contributing factor?

Where you might see better performance with an MT43 on the MAR over a modern bike I would still expect the competition tires to do better. My recommendation, 803 GP for the MAR... great price and performance!

Sorry this isn't actual experience... however on the Vertigo side everything I have ever read indicates that unless your riding at the top level playing with the maps isn't going to be needed for altitude changes or normal every day riding. Also, where a clubman level rider may want to, and I would expect it to be loads of fun to tweak maps to find your own personal sweet spot, most people would cause themselves more trouble than gains doing so. My 2 cents... I admit my EFI experience is with the 4RT and with BMW street bikes so sorry if it isn't Vertigo related but EFI works great and the one OSSA bike I got the chance to play with was the same as my 4RT in the EFI regard.

Aren't some of the systems AC and need DC conversion to work correctly? Not that it's hard to do that but I wonder how much that affects creating something like that Pc board number plate?

You should be able to get other brands out there. I have always wanted to try GRO oil but it's hard to get in the US and I believe you can get it out there. Can't comment on what version of the GRO to get but it's really good stuff from what I have heard. Good luck.

Thats what I figured. So it sounds like a flush and refill with the Engin Ice might help. You might also run a tank of injector cleaner, double check the tea bag filter, and double check how clean the TB is, maybe fuel systems a bit restricted or your getting an inacuret air volume mesurement because of some build up in the TB? (I doubt it but maybe?) Good luck.

A fresh oiled filter affects the air volume and they have a mass airflow type check (don't' remember Montesa/Honda the calls it) so yes that would/could affect it. They normally don't have an O2 unless its setup for the street so that's not likely the issue... Maybe the TB is a bit dirty and not getting a good ready on the air volume measurement?

Not sure if your in the US or not so timing and/or import tax could be a consideration if your not for at least cyclops. But then again cost is also a factor... Here would be my vote. Helmet lighting: http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/-Cyclops-Racer-LED-Helmetlight-kit-_p_154.html On bike: https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/onx-motorcycle-light.asp

Agreed, should start fine with the air box off, you might just need some slight adjustments on the idle screw or maybe some tension on the throttle? I bet it's something small.

The email is likely getting filtered into there junk box. No real good way to fix that or flag it that I have found...

I have also had good luck with Maxima MTL 75wt oil, however I am a recent convert to Silkolene light and Silkolene Comp gear oils, I feel they give a more progressive clutch feel than the Maxima as the additive package seems to work great for trials clutchs.

I run the Engine Ice and it seems to work well for me in summer time out near Boise Idaho. My fan runs a bit more than my wife's Gas Gas, but not a lot more... As for lean with the EFI... If your running one setup for the street with the O2 sensor or if you have a programmable TB with a custom map you could be running lean. If that isn't the case then the likely hood your lean is slim.

Where I wouldn't call it the best trials bike out there, the Gas Gas Randonne was E-Start and came out a long time ago... Unless your talking E-Start only?

When I have seen for seals leak from compression is only when already near failure or dirty. I am not saying you should or shouldn't compress them, I like the idea of having some way to hall a bike and not have to worry about that. Just haven't ever seen issues if the seals are good to begin with.

Yes thats the Arai hyper-t pro trials helmet.

I thought it was because of the rim lock on the front... if the front tire rotates when braking it can cause problems. Where in the rear your after the best traction and allowing a little slippage on the rim to not have pinch flats and keep the low pressure for best traction... Not sure if I missed something but this to me makes the most sense.

Tube type in the front, tubeless in rear, if its a small puncture yo might be able to patch, if large a new tube, if sidewall you might need tire and tube. I am sure you will do fine with the video for the how to.

I would go with an IRC before I put an MT43 on my trials bike, but the Dunlop D803 GP or Michelin X11 are your best options as indicated.

Great site for sure!

Maybe I need to up the search efforts and get one sooner rather than later.

Now if I could just get one of my local Honda shops to get me a 2017 300RR and the 4 Ride as an avalible option I would be in heaven! (300RR for me and a 4 Ride for my wife, and me to barrow) But alas, I am in the trials vortex of the US...

I would double check the plug and wires betwee the pump and the harness, last time I had the same simptomes I had a connection issue with that plug. In my case it was just barley plugged in , but a loose conector or broken wiere between the conectors in the plug could also cause that. Good luck.