jonnyc21

Also, who is to say he didn't attempt to get coverage lined up but was not able to find someone that was willing to do it other than someone like Jitsie who is likely to do less coverage? I understand the complaint and I two would love to have a way to watch it online, happy even to pay to watch, but to blame something like this on someone (Dougie) without knowing the full story is a bit inconsiderate. And I hope most people don't think that everyone here in the US is willing to do so without some consideration first.

My vote is that anytime you setup the bike for your weight you will have a better overall experience than if you didn't and at around 250~ or so I would probably spend the $ to get the correct springs if it was me. Sure you can do it without but why fight the bike if you can spare the cash to get it setup correctly. Hope that helps. My 2 cents for what its worth.

Oh and just in case... I know it isn't the 301 but its the same or nearly the same for all current years I have seen from like 2014/15 260 to like 2018/20 260 & 300's so I expect its the same with the 301... http://montesatrials.com.au/store/wp-content/uploads/bsk-pdf-manager/2017_Kit_Full_Power_4RT__(EN)(Web)_33.pdf

Sounds a bit like maybe you didn't get the white/green wire de-pined and tape it up. If you did maybe double check you got the correct one de-pined and/or it isn't grounding out somehow? Good luck.

Come to think of it another issue I have seen with some of the older bikes is the throttle stop getting just a touch of ware on it and the position will read negative by the ECU. If this happens it will not start at all. Simple test is to put a tiny thin washer against the stop to lift it just a touch and see if it will start. If so you should be able to glue a thin bit of something there to resolve the issue. I would still guess idle setting before this, but I know more than one person with an 05-09 4RT that have fixed a no-start with the washer trick. Good luck.

FYI the Idle setting on the 4RT's are quite high 1800 + or - 100 and can be affected by altitude so even if you haven't adjusted it you may still find it is needed.

In the end I think its really more about compliance in the knees when riding than anything else so if you can have enough bend to be able to handle the riding conditions then your good. That said, my vote is bent when practicing. In my experience when at an event I bend them less than I think so I have a tendency to ride stiff so to help not do that I will often over bend them just a little when I practice so I am not so stiff when in competition. Hope that helps.

Also you can find trials boots in SiDi, Wolfsport, and Stylmartin if what I see online is correct. PS. I have a low arch and like the support of the shank in the Alpinestars so have a pare of the Tech T. I also feel they are a bit more protective than most of the other brands and seem to fit true to size at least in my exp. Good luck!

Trials boots will be softer with less protection so you can move and shift your body around without your feet keeping you locked to the bike. Really need the bike to be able to move and shift under you so a lot less ankle support and as a side affect often less protection. Some trials boots for comparison. Alpinestars: https://www.alpinestars.com/products/tech-t-boots Gaerne: http://www.gaerne.com/boots/en/articolo/3/11/19/2522-013/brown/ http://www.gaerne.com/boots/en/articolo/3/12/312/2532-055/red-black/ http://www.gaerne.com/boots/en/articolo/3/13/23/2524-001/black/ Hebo: https://hebo.com/gb/411-trial Forma: https://www.formabootsusa.com/products/boulder-brown There are a few others but I hope this gives you a start. Hope this helps.

When I inspected the seal last it looked like it was something that could be changed from the outside if the chain and sprocket where removed. I double checked the manual and it also looks the same in the pictures and one diagram I found. Image on 4-51, the diagram on 4-54 (Oil seal is #3 in the diagram) and the same image on 4-58 as 5-51. The diagram is the most convincing image that make me think if you could pull it from the outside in the manual to me, however I haven't needed to do that so I can't say 100% for sure. Sadly that is about the only place I could find a any info in the book and it isn't much to go on. Hope that helps.

Based on your background I would say anything from 125-250 would be fine and I would side on the 200-250 side if I was in your shoes myself. Having played on 125's plenty with my wife/daughter having one, I think you would be wanting more soon enough to start on something a bit bigger. My thoughts/opinion at any rate. Good luck with your choice.

I have seen a stall issues on my Montesa once when the idle was set to low. Other than that any stall I have had was because I wasn’t good on the clutch.

I find I really like the Montesa and felt great on it but then had cause to wonder after a ride or two on my wife's Gas Gas 125 that made me wonder if I should switch to a 2T. Then after thinking on it I started to I wondered if it was more bike setup that was my problem because the suspension was so different that maybe I should double check all the settings on my Montesa, so I did, and that made all the difference... So maybe just a different setup and other adjustments from the bar position, maybe gearing, even down to the suspension settings might make your current Beta even better for you than the Gas Gas was? On the other hand sometimes the difference in bike brands really can just be so much better for one person over another and in some cases bike setup changes can help but will not make it something it isn't. Good luck!

We where just considering getting gear for my wife and daughter and where looking at the Clice ladies gear. Not sure on fit or anything yet but maybe worth checking out? https://www.trialstoreusa.com/clice-womens-trials-jersey/ https://www.trialstoreusa.com/2019-clice-womens-trials-pants/

One option might be to double up on the base gasket... it will change the port timing a touch as well though. On that note, I would not expect a huge difference over all but even then I wouldn't really be able to say how much.

Have you switched fuel type? I haven't had a problem with running different octane levels in my 17 Cota 300RR but if your running the low stuff try higher octane or the other way around? I don't really expect this to be the issue but at least something to consider?

Love my Airoh TRR as well, great helmet! Glad you like it and I admit I think your bike choice is excellent!

VP fuel is a racing fuel so will have no ethanol in it and is often a higher octane level. Most of the people I know that get VP are after the no ethanol because they don't have a non-ethanol option at a standard pump station. Some feel there bikes run better on the VP. Most of the people I know that like the VP ride 2T bikes, and a few people I know have tried it in their 4RT's and had issues. Also, some will mix standard octane non-ethanal with the VP and really like that. In the end it can make a difference depending on bike, conditions, modifications, etc. and preference in most cases.

It can actually be pulled right from the back of the light and then you can tuck the wire under the tank or behind the new number board without having to go all the way back to the next connector. I don't 'remember exactly how its held on off the top of my head but it has a round white ceramic type connector if I recall correctly. (for heat control)

I got an hour meter with tachometer integrated. No affiliation just liked the mount and meter. Meter: https://www.hardlineproducts.com/product/hourtach-meter/ Mount: https://www.hardlineproducts.com/product/hour-meter-instrument-style-mount/

Seeing your post, just not pictures. Hope you have some good ones to post up.

If its just about getting a number board and your okay with the wires still being there I would just unplug the bulb, pull the headlight, unbolt the tank and feed the wire back under the tank and zip tie it out of the way then put the tank back on and maybe even cover up the plug end and then put the number board on the forks. If you want to pull the wires all the way out I haven't gone that far into mine and don't have the time to fully investigate, sorry and good luck.

Can't say for sure the value but running is a good start. In good condition I remember seeing one that got picked up in the US for something like ~3k USD not to long ago but in the UK/EU I wouldn't know. Sorry and good luck.

That is interesting, I will have to look into this a bit to learn more. Thanks.

if you have already update the idle to ~1800, then I would check valve clearance as that would be my first thought. I will start with that and see if that sorts it out. My 2 cents at least. Other simple things to consider: (good to do anyway) Always worth doing some standard maintenance like flush and replace the coolant to be sure heat isn't causing some of the issues, not common but have had a friend boiling his fuel and fresh fluid sorted it for him. Double check the fuel pump filter isn't gummed up (not likely the primary issue, but combined with heat maybe a contributor?)