jonnyc21

I thought it was because of the rim lock on the front... if the front tire rotates when braking it can cause problems. Where in the rear your after the best traction and allowing a little slippage on the rim to not have pinch flats and keep the low pressure for best traction... Not sure if I missed something but this to me makes the most sense.

Tube type in the front, tubeless in rear, if its a small puncture yo might be able to patch, if large a new tube, if sidewall you might need tire and tube. I am sure you will do fine with the video for the how to.

I would go with an IRC before I put an MT43 on my trials bike, but the Dunlop D803 GP or Michelin X11 are your best options as indicated.

Great site for sure!

Maybe I need to up the search efforts and get one sooner rather than later.

Now if I could just get one of my local Honda shops to get me a 2017 300RR and the 4 Ride as an avalible option I would be in heaven! (300RR for me and a 4 Ride for my wife, and me to barrow) But alas, I am in the trials vortex of the US...

I would double check the plug and wires betwee the pump and the harness, last time I had the same simptomes I had a connection issue with that plug. In my case it was just barley plugged in , but a loose conector or broken wiere between the conectors in the plug could also cause that. Good luck.

The standard Showa is a great shock, however stock configuration doesn't work as well as a properly setup aftermarket Ohlins if you haven't had the Showa setup for your weight. And service of the Ohlins is often less expensive and easier to find a local shop.

The X-Track trial-excursion sure makes me think Gas Gas Contact, Beta Trial Sport, Montesa 4 Ride... Looks a lot cooler than the rest though.

bummer, best of luck in your serch.

If I was going to pick I think I would go with the Beta. Hard to say without seeing it but over all it looks well cared for. You should be able to get a new but maybe not the same year look fender that would fit. And there is a good chance you will re-brake it anyway so take that as a possibility. You will want to check what type of coolent was used and if the cover on the water pump side has been replaced as the wrong type can eat through the inside of the case and causes the need for an updated cover. Not hard or a pile of $ but worth checking. The older Gas Gas is ok but the Beta will be more fun to ride as it's a more modern design. Good luck.

rockchuckar, Looks like your in ID? Are you new to the group out here? I am not able to ride most Sundays so if you are new I likely haven't had a chance to meet you. Hope your enjoining everything.

Page 54 of: http://www.joomag.com/magazine/trials-enduro-news-december-2014-vol-49-issue-12/0716551001416757092?short I also started a chat about this on the other forum. http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/trials-and-enduro-news-latest-issue-trials-suspension-page-54.1025665/ good luck.

Any chance you would be able to comment on the internal head shap of the Hebo Zone 4?

Just realized I forgot to say I put mine back in and run all 6 springs, no issues and love my clutch.

There are a few good YouTube video's on testing a motorcycle rectifier. you might give a search for "test a motorcycle rectifier" in google and watch some of the videos. The last time I had issues with a bike not getting spark, a Suzuki GS500E, I ended up replacing the rectifier and it didn't fix anything, turned out it was the pickups on the flywheel not telling the system when to spark... I wish I had a known process for the 4RT, Good luck.

Based on the amount of force on the standard clutch in comparison to the extra pressure created by the washers on the 300RR I would venture an educated guess that unless your riding the champ/pro line your not ever going to see any slip in the clutch to remove them. I say this because I know several people who have pulled 2 springs of the 6 in the 4RT clutch and don't ever feel slip even in 4th or 5th unless they are reving and dumping the clutch hard. I pulled 2 springs as an experiment and found it worked great unless I was in 5th gear (only time it ever slipped), however my clutch was already extra smooth and light for a 4RT, I am also using the ELF oil and I suspect it might even have had a clutch pack change from the previous owner. Please take this information as the grain of salt it is... its just my experience

Have you checked all your grounding (earth) connections including the yellow connector block under the fuel tank to be sure verything is correctly connected to ground? I ask because the ground connector block looks like its just a capped connector but really has a pice to connect all of the spades together. I am guessing this is a yes, just double checking...

Did you remember to check the earth connection block? Something like 9 leads into the one yellow connector under the fuel tank? (Guessing you did but it's easy to miss so just in case)

I might recomend doing peg conversion/update to make them wider and even maybe relocate them rear word... A frend of mine did so and it was well worth the adapter... good luck.

For refrance, I only have 1 smooth (push type) kick to prime my system and a second kick starts almost every time and only need a single kick when warm. A good single kick will often even when cold start my 07 4RT but isn't 100% garneted so I most often do the 2 kick start when cold.

My wife, daughter and I have had a few diffrent boots and from our end I would say... The big advandage is flex and peg feel the trials boots make balance and control so much better. The boots: My wife has a set of the Gaerne Pro Tech and she has a high arch and with the softer sole she has indicated on some longer events that its a bit soft for her and she wanted a boot with a bit stiffer sole. My daughter as it turns out has the same size feet as my wife and loves my wifes Gaerne's so we got a set of Alpinestars No Stop boots for them to both try between the two of them and they could pick between them what they like. My wife likes the stiffer sole of the Alpinestars and my daughter likes both so I think my wife will end up with the Alpinestars. I have low arches and somewhat sensitive feet and after trying a set of my friends Gaerne's I ended up with a set of the Alpinestars. Over all I liked how the Gaerne boots where very slipper like but needed a bit more support with my feet. Hope that helps.

I would first check all your connections, with extra effort on your grounding. Last time I had anything like this on a bike it was grounding connections. Good luck.

Maybe the 300RR you where on might have had the bars swapped or modified?

If I was getting a set of Michelin tires for free I would go with the X11 Competition. There isn't many left but not being an advanced rider there isn't really a good reason for me to have the thinner side walls of the X-Lite. If I was paying for a tire I think I would go with the new 803 GP as they have better grip than the older 803's and are way less than the X-Lite. Hope that helps.