jonnyc21

Should be a 520 and yes non O-ring and seem to recall 102 links for a 250. (Don't quote me on the links though)

I believe it is when they at leaning on the sump(skid plate).

It could be that you have that rere defective part, even on a Honda/Montesa they happen. Also, I have seen slow off's that have done much more selective damage than I would have thought, on my former enduro bike, than many of my faster ones as well as on my Montesa. If the shift lever took the first good bite into the hill i wouldn't be surprised at all if this is what I would see.

Glad you like it and where able to get a suitable oil. FYI: I found during winter I ride with rebound and compression near the middle and summer I turn it in about 2 to 4 clicks depending on temp and find it works great for me.

Wondering if you where able to get the redline and if you liked it as much as I do... Hope it turned out well ether way.

Wow, glad it wasn't to much cost wise and you got it fixed before any of that metal got into things it shouldn't.

If they don't let at least a little oil past them you will not get things lubricated... It's a fact that even the most well put together 4T engine will have oil getting into the cylinder. Also if the engine is new and you run the wrong oil (supper high end sinthetic) it could take extra time to seat the rings, or if your running some kind of second rate oil it could cause other issues. Food for thought.

I would also suggest kids bicycle or skate type pads for kids, worked great for my daughter when she was was younger and doing the trials motorcycle.

Just considering rings, valves, crank case venting, and depending on bike emissions recirculation systems. There is and can be plenty of oil getting into a 4T cylinder. Where I admit it shouldn't be anything close to a 2T it can well be enough to cause plug issues. Especially if things like plug gap, or heat range are wrong. A possible fix/help could also be to consider a one step hotter plug?

Where I agree that swapping oils can affect clutch plates and cause them to swell or if you use the wrong oil(s) or mix up a magic cocktail it would likely spell disaster, I will in small part agree and disagree with the comment if the clutch has had other oils in it you need to replace it. Where an abused clutch will need to be replaced, other oils used may or may not need that. I, as well as other friends of mine have had bikes, including 4RT's, that had other oils in them and did not need to replace the clutch. The way we did it was to pick the oil we wanted to use, best if its a known good oil, and then run that at least 2 changes with at least 5 to maybe 15 hours use between each change, if the clutch is still not doing well after the 2nd or 3rd change then you likely have damaged plates and would be best to replace. So far, all 4 bikes in question have been great after the 2nd or 3rd oil change without needing a new clutch and are still going strong 3 to 5 years later depending on the bike. (With this in mind if you are in question or in any way hesitant about doing this, just change the clutch, its the sure fire way to know its good!) Note: This is my experience and as they say your mileage may very, I will not claim this will work for everyone, so you can feel free to try or not at your own discretion.

I have seen 2T oil choice make a difference in how long a plug will last so I would guess that oil choice on a 4T could do it, though I wouldn't expect only 20 hours... I would recommend that he try a different oil, however he would need to get a new plug after the second oil change with the new oil so its a proper comparison.

Call Dennis at "Overland Trail Cycle" http://www.overlandtrail.biz/. I believe he can get the ELF HTX 740. be ready for a large out of pocket however as it isn't cheep. $$$ On the other side note... I was looking into it some time ago on one of the other threads (http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/58290-4rt-engine-oil-help/) and found myself that the "GRO Extreme" is the next closest however can't find it in the US and next up is the "Silkolene Light" witch is likely to be my first attempt once I run out of the ELF I have on hand. There has been some good results using "Dexron 6 ATF" by some, though I would rather find a different oil myself, it works. Viscosity comparison of ELF, GRO and Silkolene Light... Gear Oil | @40C | @100C ELF HTX740 | 21.4 | 7 GRO Extreme | 20 | 5.2 Silkolene Light | 100-180 | 15

I picked up the Hebo Repsol gear and I feel the sizing is quite close, quality seems good and I am quite happy with them. The one note would be the shirt cuffs run a bit snug so if your wrists are large they will run tight. Mine are ok but even with the extra expense I am considering having some softer and looser cuffs put in at my local tailors. (bit right brained about tight things on my wrists...)

I heard that the Beta 4T has a bit more bark than the 260 Montesa but not huge. I als know there is a race cam option for the Beta and it makes them even louder, so if you do get a chance to ride one you might want to check if it's got the race cam or not first. Good luck.

I would check the seals for particulates, there is a chance you have some grit or maybe like the showa's the bush coating has flaked and is getting up under the seal? you could try one of the seal cleaning tools, or might just be better to pull them and check them and the sanctions as well just in case. 2 seals leaking in close or a relatively close interval would make me think something is getting up inside the seals from the inside of the fork. Hope you figure it out or maybe new SKF's will fix?

First low cost I would start with would be the slow throttle tube and with your experience on 125cc bikes this could be enough. Next low cost I would be to tweak the ignition timing, however unless you are good at working on bikes that might not be the best idea. You might also consider lower gearing with larger rear or smaller front sprocket, however that might cause you to need a new chain depending on what direction you go. Good luck.

Yes people will mellow out a bike to make it less agressive. The slow throttle tube, low compression head inserts, adding a flywheel weaght, etc. Example of someone taking a Raga 300 and making it much less agressive. http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/changing-ignition-modules-big-difference.955152/ Also a little more on ignition timing tweaks: http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/when-retardation-is-smart.967983/

Springs will not last forever, however I would start with the oil change and then check your sag. If you can't get the sag correct then you might need to replace the springs. Though I would guess your springs are probably fine. Just a note: if the sag is close but on the slightly softer side your probably ok, if it is way off then you might consider new springs.

When I did it on my 07 4RT I pulled the forks and drained them upside down, then I used Red Line ExtraLight 2.5wt Suspension Fluid. I also had my rear done with the same 2.5 at the same time and love it. They have a like water version but I suspect that would be a bit to thin as the default oil is 5wt... Red Line: http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=26&pcid=18 Good luck!

Bottle with a tube and the cap taken off while the radiator is still in place. Would work fine, but like indicated would need to have one on hand if a situation came up during a competition...

I haven't pulled one apart so would not know for sure, however it is common to put it in blade connectors and other types of connectors and they work fine when assembled with the grease in them so I would guess that is the case.

You should be able to find dielectric grease of that type at most automotive parts stores.

I really hope they come out with this boot soon...

l have seen grounding on the coil or water in the fuel do this. Best of luck.

l can't seem to find anything on them. got a link?