jonnyc21

From what I have seen on my 07 4RT when I was having some strange issues the ECU will cut the spark when kicking it on things like full throttle (or to much throttle) and a negative value. Guessing its a safety thing, wouldn't want a bike to start up from 0 and instantly rev its head off or something else strange.

I have sense spent some decent time on a Beta 300 4T so can now provide a better comparison between the two of them and have also been able to get some good input from my friend who had the Beta 4T on other things. Beta 300 4T: Softer off the bottom than the Montesa smooth but not lacking power, solid and smooth mid range where the power starts to come on stronger, rev's out really nice on the top with lots of linier power. Clutch is very predictable, firm, a little quicker than the diaphragm clutch common on most 2T's (adjustments and tweaks well known to make it better if you do get one), suspension is good a little less compliant than the Montesa but over all not lacking. Single oil for gear box and engine. Montesa 300 RR: Stronger power off the bottom but predictable still smooth just, strong mid range again still predictable but noticeable, plenty of power at the top end as it will rev up quick to provide lots of go when you want it. Clutch is a bit harder pull on the Montesa 300 RR but not a lot but the clutch on the 260's are the same as the Beta. You can remove/change the spacers on the 300 RR to the same as the 260 if you want it to be softer. Suspension on the Montesa 300 is more plush than the Beta and feels better in rock/log piles and on the bigger drops and hits. Different oil for engine and gearbox. Other considerations: the Montesa's will not need to have any jetting work done on them, the Beta will do better if you jet it for your altitude. Hope this helps. Food for thought: The seat tank on the Beat 4T is much larger and a lot easier to get than the after market version you can get for the Montesa so if you are planning on using it for a mix of trials and trails that could be a consideration if you like long trail rides.

Low idle is a common issue, needs to be 1800... The bank angle sensor can fail on them, find it and bypass the two outside wires with a jumper to test. the throttle stop can ware a bit or get tweaked and the position can read as a negative value instead of 0, or near 0. the fuel pump or fan can stop working and cause the ECU to not let it spark (can test both with a 12v battery) that's a good first stab list... good luck.

All of the linkage bits i checked have the same part numbers so I would think that the ether of the 4RT shock options, Showa or R16V, would fit and I would guess the same for the front Showa/Tech... Edit: Yes the front triple is the same part number as well so, yes the front Show or Tech's it would fit.

Sure sounds like your master is loosing pressure because of a bad seal... maybe your fluid is rushing back into the reservoir so your not seeing any leaks? I haven’t worked on the Grimeca brakes so not sure how the piston and seals are setup so I don’t know if this is would be possible Without leaking but I have had it happen in the past on an old street bike I had so thought it might be worth a suggestion.

Airoh lists the weaght on there site as well... 850 +- 50 Grams... Example: https://www.airoh.com/full-range/trr-s

I haven't had any issues finding the weight on trials helmets. Because they are ECE 22.05 you get a range because of head size hence the +- 50 from XS - XXL... Example: Hebo Zone 4 Carbon 850 +- 50 Grams. Non Carbon 950 +- 50 Grams. Carbon: https://hebo.com/shop/gb/inicio/525-2701-cascohelmet-trial-zone-4-carbotech.html#/38-talla-xs/46-color-lime Non Carbon: https://hebo.com/shop/gb/inicio/541-2596-cascohelmet-trial-zone-4-monocolor.html#/26-color-white/31-talla-l Hope that helps...

https://www.handdracing.co.uk/product-page/4rt-suspension-linkage-plate-upgrade-kit Works on the 315R and the 4RT. So others that are for the 4RT would as well, might give them an email and see when/if they are getting more back in stock.

Last time I had a stuck caliper (Old Suzuki) I pulled it from the bike and used compressed air to force them out. Drained out the brake fluid, then stuck a set of well used pads in and hit it with the air.

I would expect them to move a lot more than that... You also look like you have a great deal of fluid inside... Might have a bad seal?

In order of preference not value/cost. Michelin X11 Dunlop 803gp Michelin X lite I actually like the X lite just a bit more when grip is the primary consideration but I find I get flats on sharp stuff or when puncture weeds (goat heads) are around and the Dunlop's do better against them than the X lite. Haven't tried the IRC's so can't comment on them.

For me the last time I had an issue like this for me it was the position on the bike. I think I was putting just a touch more pressure on my hands than I had before. I had to adjust the bars a bit back and forth tell I was able to get about the same pressure as I had on my last bike. Of course I can't say this is the problem but I hope that helps and good luck.

Not sure I can help with what trials boot, however I wouldn't go with the listed ONeal's. My kid had a set of ONeal's, a lot like that set, in the transition between her small pit bike and the Beta Rev 80 we got her and they where to stiff, in the end we got my daughter a pair of the AplineStars and they are way better for her. Maybe they would have softened up a bit more over time but it sure didn't seem like it. Of course she isn't needing the wider toe box and bigger calf so that isn't going to help you but hope the information on the stiff factor helps at least a bit. Good luck.

Other than the stickers the rear design looks the same as the 2020 301 RR to me... and I agree its a pore design.

My daughters first trials moto was an 80 Sr with the full size wheels. The difference in total weaght is maybe 4-6lbs last I recall and the 125 she rides now is way nicer suspension for any adult and I doubt its any harder to start than her old Beta 80. If it was me I would say go with a 125 unless you want to go down to something like an Oset 24.0R.

Fantastic news. Glad you where able to get it sorted without having to go to drastic measures.

As linaway indicated checking the jet tower is a good idea. Also, if you haven't checked and adjusted the jets that could help. Most people I know running a Keihin find a much larger low speed jet, smaller main, and needle setting change can make a big difference. It may sound a bit crazy but depending on the bike using anything from a 48-55 low speed, a 120-122 main jet, and a needle set between the middle to one lower around see level can run great. around 3-5k and a main of 118-120 and as low as 112 can be good at around 10k. Good luck.

Sorry if there was any confusion, my comment was intended for 54tphill as he indicated his issue shows up inside 6 min or so.

With how quick you seem to see the issue an ECU swap/test should provide a lot of good information... If it still happens try swapping other parts, the capacitor, the throttle body, the injector... really could be a number of things at this point... good luck.

I have never replaced my pads without also re-bleeding the system so not sure if it could, however its possible. At this point I would do a flush and re-bleed of the system including re-adjustment of all the settings and see if your still having an issue. If you are then maybe its as lineaway indicated and your only choice is to modify the pin. If this is the case maybe you corrected a problem that wasn't causing an issue so you didn't know was an issue and now that is causing the issue you now have. My best guess. Edit: It would be highly unlikely the new pads by them selves would remove play from the system. Hydraulic systems auto adjust for changes in the system (pad ware, new pads, etc.) so it would be way more likely there is some other factor in play that is the cause of the difference not just new pads. Happy to be wrong if it really is the pads though...

The doesn't sounds like a fluid level issue... did you flush and re-bleed the system after replacing the pads? If not that is the first thing I would do and then re-adjust the lever. Good luck.

Good theory... I have never needed more than 1 kick to charge the capacitor/system and 1 to start the bike for any of the Montesa's I have or have ever been on. (currently have an 07 250 and a 17 300RR) So a low charge output from the system is a possible cause. That theory makes me think a bit more about the capacitor making me think it isn't keeping enough of a charge. The initial fan startup could be putting to much drain on the capacitor and as a capacitor heats up, assuming its on its way out but not dead, they loose some of there ability to work and even stop working completely if they get hot enough in a part way failed state. With that, I still vote, check it (preferably when hot) and even consider a replacement even if it seems good. Good luck!

If you getting that kind of RPM dip when the fan stops I would start checking all of my ground wires and connectors are clean and greased up, and maybe test and/or replace the capacitor just in case.

Had great luck with my daughters 06 Rev 80 Sr, should be a great bike for him.. Great bike with only ever needing standard maintenance. Note: before running it at all I would put a fuel filter on it between the tank and the carburetor. I am aware of at least 3 people getting small bits of debris from the tank causing some running issues on there Evo 08's.

This is my issue as well, flat feet, and I find a mix of the S3 hard rock aluminium and the AlpineStars Tech T trials boots seem to do very well for my size 11 US feet. I think the combination of the stiffer sole on the A-Stars and the wider S3's seem to do well for me. Good luck.