jm_

I finally sorted the clutch after 2 or 3 oil changes and centering the belleville spring over the press-plate (it has about 1-2 mm of concentric play and resulted in the pulsating effect that my bike suffered). After this, I made a new press-plate with less inner diameter and 0.15 mm less of pressure to have the same good feel of mi trusty GG'06. Also had the same bubbles in both lines (brake and clutch) due to the bad habit of shipping. I don't know why they don't remove both masters and zip them in vertical position to the fork, this is how I send my bikes crated. Cheers, JM

Hi, The new oil was better, but can't get ride of a pulsating clutch when you need a light, sustained slip. Symptom of a damaged fiber disc, or warped metallic one... I'll inspect the set, not a huge work but nasty in a brand new bike. JM

I've exactly the same bike than yours and the same problem. I noticed a progressively harder and rough clutch durign the first 20 minutes after uncrated. Drained the original oil («NILS» I suppose as owner's manual states). Was extremly liquid with an horrible odour, lots of bubbles in surface, touch as dissolvent... Both magnets in drains were full of a ferric-fibrose mud that I expect wasn't ride througt the holes that lubricate the main bearings. After change to a common 75W gear oil, the thing goes better, but I suspect that the fiber discs are somehow degradated and inflated (so the harder touch in handlebar). I've wrote a notification to TRS by mean of my dealer. Could be a case of a bad batch of oil? At the moment, I've no answer from factory, but I have confidence in Marc and Jordis. Cheers, JM

Hi, 300 and 250 run with the same jetting from stock: pilot jet: 45 main jet: 125 needle: JJH with clip in middle slide: 3.5 Is almost identical in all trials engine now (maybe sherco was using a leaner pilot jet --42--) due to the almost identical thermodynamics in 2T of similar characteristics. I bet you can swap the keihin between your GG and TRS with total success! Cheers, JM

Hi, In my Beta 300 4T (16) I had a very dragging & sticking clutch with recommended oil by owner's manual (synthetic 10W50). Was difficult change gears and, even, the bike creeped forward fractions of seconds before the clutch were free. I systematically tried several (much!) configurations/oils and, finally, found that a set of sherco fiber plates and synthetic 10w40 (Repsol) were perfect to me. I ride in south Spain (a climate similar to BillyT). In trials use (not a sustained ride) I feel better the 10w40 because it goes faster to everywere and make its lubrication and refrigeration jobs better than a thicker oil. Honda, in their works machines, uses 10W30 for engine (their clutch runs apart in different oil). A thicker oil is not always better. Cheers JM

I wonder how this will have ended ... Cheers, JM

Many thanks! I'll try to use the same reservoir/bladder with a different final. If the reservoir cracks, then will try to make a DeCarbon system with a new, smaller, bottom end to reduce weight Cheers, JM

Thanks Snowball. Did he machine the set reservoir+bottom holder? In what sense a nightmare? I like very much the showa because is very sensitive at low speed and enough strong at high velocity. It weighs a little more than modern reiger/öhlins, but give a bonus in traction. Thanks, JM

Hi, Yes it has a bladder: I'm also interested in this thread. I'll try to fit on a TRS (has a little U instead the bottom rose bulb, so it's necessary to machine a new one). Anyone knows if this part (it isn't in the photo) is screwed on the reservoir? Thanks, JM

Hi, The point goes back and forth or only progress in the same way? May be a bubble in the hose that dilates when hot. The bikes are shipped with handlebars upside down and this may cause thins like yours. Undo the lever and reservoir, put the most vertical as you can and operate the lever. Let overnight in this position and see what happens next day. If not success, it may be necessary to bleed the circuit (mineral oil). If this also hasn't success, you should check the integrity of piston in the master cylinder. What year is your bike? A batch of braktec were recalled in 2017's shercos due to a sharp orifice in the master bore. The behaviour was similar to yours, but these issues are not documented in TRS. Cheers, JM

Hi Chappo, This tube should be closed by a elastic rubber (the OEM one is really bad, easily cracked and lost). Its mission is to equalize pressure in multicylinder engines. Just plug a closed hose and go. Cheers JM

I use a removable hex head turned with a spanner. Anyway, do not expect a remarkable result. Anyone had success fitting a showa shock from montesa? Cheers, JM

For sure, you better buy a english bike... JM

Hi, Sherco's disk are made from a different fiber than Beta ones. Beside the dragging, I had a bad hot sticking (when riding and clutching, they take a fraction of second to free the wheel). I did not feel the problem until ride mi GG side to side. When the problem was resolved, the bike was really fantastic to ride, very smooth in the clutch in/out actuation. As trade off, I now have a little rattle in the clutch basket due to the 1mm less in diameter of sherco disks. This rattle will develop a premature wear of basket tangs but, until that moment, I'll enjoy the bike. Cheers, JM

I had the same problem in my '16 300 4T. Did the 'clutch fix' but it did not helped so much. So, in a moment of fool, I mounted a set of sherco disks I had around. The sherco ones are 1 mm less in diameter but fitted very nicely. Filled with 10w40 to the right level and, so far, very happy with this set. Maybe I'll get a early wear basket but... I can machine a new one to get the sherco disks properly fitted then. Cheers, JM

Hello, I have connected the auxiliary line directly to the breather line of the main reservoir. So, as the gasoline is used in the main, it is sucked (?) from the auxiliary. And the line runs below the auxiliary tank. The same system is used in the Hebo tanks behind headlight. Cheers, JM

Hi, I own a Beta 300 (2016) after several bikes (last, 4RT'14) and it is a very nice machine. Silent and sweet, turns just in a coin and it is very well built (with some exceptions). Lighter and slimmer than 4RT. It has a very long break-in, after you'll find a lot of torque from almost 0-rpm. I have just one remain problem: a annoying sticky cluch in hot. It breaks suddenly milliseconds after the pull-in and makes me dab. Have to test with other oils (10w50 recommended seems a bit thick) or, even, other fibre plates. Any suggestion will be welcome! Cheers, JM Edited: I did the 'beta clutch fix' advice (at the top of these threads) but the sticking remained.

Thank you very much for your input and the photgraphs! I would also stick to the manufacturer's recommendations. I can't figure out what is the point of the 'spacer' above the circlip (?). I think that these hose on the left-down of your last photo is just a vent to allow the operation of the membrane that holds the needle. Or to vent the float chamber, maybe? I'll keep an eye on these faulty cap. Thank you for the tip. And finally, a stupid question: The choke knob has 3 positions. I supose that the outer is for cold start, but... Should be in the middle or in the inner position for normal riding? Cheers! JM

Hi, I self-answer to me: the bike comes with a catalysed exhaust and the concomitant air-injector (at least, in Spain). I just trashed them and fitted the clean exhaust supplied apart. In the same box, there are an homologation kit with, among others, the small jets. So, I suppose the big ones are fitted on the bike. The only thing I haven't discovered is the 'spacer'. There is a 2x5 cm approx. tang that seems to be a external stop for the carb butterfly, but I have no idea (neither the manual). Cheers, JM

Hi, Did you checked the impeller integrity? I had the same problem in a GG: the impeller was apparently OK, but it was spinning free due to a damaged thread. In your case there are no thread, just a beveled stud. By the way: I have just received the Beta. Finally a 300. Cheers JM

Sorry?

I'll do, for sure. However, the main question still stands. What are the jets on your bikes?