leembarnes

Never had an issue, my bike is nearly 3yrs old and has been up and down some fairly big stuff

It's easy enough to do just a little fiddly. Cdi sits under the frame behind the headstock, remove tank and you can see and feel it. It's held onto a bracket with a Velcro elasticated strap. I remove that first and gently pull cdi backwards, remove from plug and replace. Note any moisture or rust on the pins in the cdi. Mine has been clean and dry both times to be fair but still I don't take the jet wash any where near it.

Cdi....I'm on my third one now. When mine went symptoms were different each time

Same as pauls320 my gaerne and sidi both 43, sidi is a stiffer boot so will initially feel a bit snug and does soften a touch which aids comfort.

I use full length carbon. Cost about £80 but once you've had to pay out for a tech stanchion well worth the investment. Obvs very light and don't effect front end in any way.

In the spirit of fair play if he knowingly had a dab, or even the five, should he not have corrected the observer?? Regardless of whether he wins by 15, 19 or 20 marks.

Fitted a new Cdi today this appears to have fixed the problem. Had it running for thirty minutes nice and hot and no issues so far. Many thanks to Mr Saunders from SXS excellent customer service and after sales.

Thanks for all the advice will post a result in case someone experiences a similar problem in future. All connections earth's and cables checked and eliminated problem remains. Cdi unit is next up!

Will test this eve cleaned all the earth connections. There was a touch of moisture in the connector from the stator to the cdi cleaned that off and will see what happens!

Thanks going to try a new cap first and then work back towards the stator. A friend has a different cdi unit so that's useful!

Defo not the vent cap...just ran it again for ten mins with cap off and same result...perfect for a ten or twelve mins then bogs down won't rev and a few backfires this time too

It's got an aftermarket csp cap and the ball is moving fine doesn't appear blocked...

Thanks I will drain everything off once more and get some new fuel to try. Intesting that when the bike is allowed to cool it runs fine for a while and then the issue returns

Thanks will try that. Brought it home and washed it and again it's run perfect for ten mins on stand. I did have a thought....just because the fan is working doesn't mean it's not overheating....could it be an impeller problem? I've heard of the Trs melting impeller blades and had been planning to do the upgrade on it. If there is no circulation could that give same symptoms....

2017 Rr 300 has always run perfectly. Went out today and after ten minutes of 1st gear pottering around to warm up I got a big backfire. Started ok but wouldn't rev properly had loss of power and was knocking. Limped it back to the van and left it ten minutes whilst getting local opinion. Ten minutes later it started perfect and ran spot on for about 3 or 4 minutes including at half and three quarter throttle whilst static. Then it started to bog down again and lose power. Back to the van quick strip down...carb clean all ok put a new plug in which took 15 minutes. It then ran great for 15 minutes and same again started to bog down lose power and pop a bit so called it a day. 2nd and 3rd try there was no audible knocking. Only work done prior to riding was fresh oil. Also new tank of fuel but same stuff I always use. Any ideas welcome? Never done this before! Seems to be an issue as the bike gets hotter?? Fan working fine so overheating shouldn't be the issue. Bad batch of fuel? Or has the big backfire damaged something.....