sherpa325

Yes the backbone can bend if the head steady is broken or bent as was pretty common in the late 70's. The miller frames were the bees knees so to speak in the early seventies as they had improved geometry [shorter, quicker steering, more ground clearance] were lighter as well as they were made from reynolds chrome moly tubing. Also the tubes were removed from under the engine, another emerging problem area. However the model 125 released in 1974 pretty much copied the miller dimensions and was also made from chrome moly. The only real difference was the tubes still remained under the engine. So by the mid seventies the miller frames became rarer and rarer as the factory frames narrowed the gap. I would imagine there would be not a lot of difference strength wise between the two. Cheers Greg

Thanks will order an IRC and give it a go Cheers Greg

On ebay you can buy a surflex clutch kit that has a number of steels of varying thickness so you can get the completed thickness you want. I had the same problem on my 014 racing, purchased the kit and all good now. I also bought a digital vernier to get the measurement spot on. If you are using the standard fibre plates there is one that is slightly thicker and this one must go in first. Cheers Greg

Thanks for the replies and yes I have tried a Dunlop before but it kept coming off the rim at trials pressures,apparently OK on DID rims, so I guess its an IRC - can anyone confirm the whether or not the tubed michelin has been discontinued. Thanks Greg

I was wondering what everyone was doing for rear tyres. I have been told the tube type michelin has been discontinued, is this true or not. I have a tubeless 36 spoke morad rim but am resisting using it as I would like to keep the bike looking period correct. I can get IRC tube type rears, but was concerned they might not stay on the rim, the bike is a bultaco with akront rims. Cheers Greg

Yes mine was imported from the USA [mid 90's] along with a second one which has just been purchased by a Queensland collector/rider

To keep things more orderly maybe? 199 0000 - 5960 199A 6000 - 12915 199B 13000 - 14778 Just a thought

Yes I have always looked at the 159 numbers and thought they were suspect at 500, especially considering the model ran for a year - they had just won the first world championship- and it was the only 350 on the market. Maybe its supposed to be 5000 as the 183 is 5 months for 790 bikes and the 191 is 5 months for 1451 bikes. Greg

The problem as I see it that the earlier models all started their numbering at 0000 and the model numbers of the bikes fall within the published numbers produced, my model 92 has a 3,000 number for example. I think the three 199 series have been put together as one model hence the high numbers. My 199A's are 11,000 numbers and my 199B is 14033. What is interesting is why they kept the same 199 model number for the three quite different bikes whereas previously the 159, 183, and 191 all have different model numbers for what is essentially the same bike. Maybe it has something to do with government grants or concessions or even registration compliance - requirements. Cheers Greg

It would be interesting to know how the bikes were numbered, were all the 199 bikes numbered together consecutively, that is 199, 199A and 199B or did they start a new set of numbers for each series and if that is the case what number did each series start with, because they certainly didn't make 14000 199b's Cheers Greg

If the bike has not been ridden for a while you need to go through the ignition. Its advisable to purchase a flywheel puller, a new set of points and a new condenser all available from 'In Motion'. The points ignition is perfectly OK to use and very reliable, it just needs periodic maintenance. The timing is 2.5 - 2.7 BTDC . They will still run and start if the timing is a little out, condensers fail periodically and cause all sorts of problems as they still produce a faint spark when you check but this spark breaks down when the bike is running. The system should produce a very strong spark when checking the plug, also the smallest amount of dirt/grease on the points and they wont go so its important to run a piece of clean paper through the points to ensure they are 'clean' even after setting with feelers as the feeler gauge may deposit some oil/grease when using them. Cheers Greg Bultacos are relatively easy to start as well, 2-3 kicks if every thing is working correctly

Most likely an anti-rattle clip

Definitely iris, sent you a message. Cheers Greg

I think the Iris chain fitted to the Gas Gas is really good value, I ride my bike at least once a week and only rarely have to adjust it. Give Paul Arnott at The Hell Team a call, top guy and really easy to deal with. .

I cut the loop off on one of my 199A s, but I have kept the loop to weld back in place if I change my mind at a latter date. Some of the factory 199A s had the loop removed all the way back to the seat and had white guards Cheers Greg

Except at Philip Island, where all these allegations by Rossi Started

I may be naive, but I would have assumed that Miller would have had several bikes and just swapped the rego plate onto the bike he was competing on that weekend. EOR 2K from all the photos I have seen was a miller highboy framed bike, so i am not sure how the frame and engine numbers would correspond if at all. It would be interesting to know where this bike sits in the evolution of the 325 engines as it appears to have all the model 92 upgrades, whereas some other photos I have seen have 325 engines in Model 80 frames. Cheers Greg

Purchase a flywheel puller, money well spent, and are available on Ebay off various suppliers. I once had had an Italjet that had a similar issue - after removing the flywheel the Bakelite heel part of the points that ran on the cam section of the flywheel had disintegrated. Cheers Greg

You need to sort out whether it has a points ignition system [standard] or an aftermarket electronic system. I have used condensors off a lawn mower and a car while waiting for the correct one to turn up, and honestly couldn't pick a difference in performance. Condensors fail periodically with no warning, but typically when you check for a spark there generally is a faint spark which leads you to believe everything is OK. Its worth putting a new set of points in as well while you have the flywheel off. Cheers Greg

Dodgy condensor, starts, sort of runs ok, has spark when you check. Cheers Greg

Correct gearing for a 183 is 11/46. From the 199/198 series on wards the gearing was 11/39 which gives the same overall ratio as a result on an internal gearing change. Cheers Greg PS I also have never seen a smaller front sprocket than 11

Nice work. Did you notice an increase in performance. Cheers Greg

The bike is a bitsa made up of parts that he had acquired/leftover from many bultaco restorations. The airbox and silencer were homemade, the frame is a 199, engine -199a, forks and triple clamps- early italjet, rims- early gold italjet.The swingarm came on a 199B that was imported to Australia from Hughs in the USA and looks to be purpose built for sherpas. The 199B was restored to original and an original swingarm was sourced and so the alloy one became surplus.If you have Bernie Schreibers book 'Observed Trials' he appears to be riding a Sherpa with the same swingarm in it on page 88. Cheers Greg

A good friend built this bike quite a few years ago with the long header pipe mod, but to be quite honest neither of us could pick a noticeable difference in power. If you look at the Spanish 'Puma' bikes some of them run a longer header pipe styled after a Gas Gas header pipe. Cheers Greg

The needle and needle jet when worn create all sorts of drama when trying to get the bike to run nicely, the worn slide 'which looks terrible' doesn't have any effect on the running of the engine. As regards the overflow tubes, I can remember one of my bikes, either a sherpa t or a 348/349 cota having the one continuous piece of plastic hose running from one side to the other from new, however it had a section removed from the hose under the carburetor - about half the diameter was removed for about 20mm . Cheers Greg