sherpa325

Has anyone tried DP clutch plates and if so how do they compare to Surflex. I have tried the Kevlar and find them too sharp for my liking. Any feedback would be appreciated.

I always use the S3 ones on all my bikes including twinshocks and using genuine Keihin carburetors and have had zero problems on any bikes and I am very fussy.

Why would they cause issues, I have them on my bikes with no dramas

Water from the water pump, in the oil, will cause the plates to stick and it doesn't have to be much.

After having four operations on one knee and at the moment recovering from an operation on my good knee I would have to disagree with you.

14/52 for the 250 bikes using the 1/2" chain. The first 325's M92 used 13/52 1/2" chain. The later bikes up to the 198/199 used the 11/46 5/8" chain which works out to be very close to the 13/52.

If it's the Dellorto carb, I've found they start best when hot with no throttle at all

I would personally go with the bike that has the best parts supply and service. This can vary from country to country as some of the importers are small in terms of the range and volume of parts they keep in stock. I changed from two different manufacturers simply because of lack of customer service in terms of product knowledge and parts kept in stock.

Sherpas have three or four wires coming from the magneto. Green goes to earth, Black goes to the coil and kill switch, yellow is lights so just terminate that at your junction box. Some later ones have a red wire also which is also stopped at the junction box.

Is it true the E start bikes have a lighter flywheel in order to accommodate the starting mechanism? If so is it noticeable in relation to the engine performance?

There is a sleeve/spacer that is inside the hub and between the two bearings. You should be able to lever this spacer to the side with a long screwdriver, thus giving you access to the bearing from the inside, they generally require a decent hit to get them moving.

The other issue with the sliding bar type is that you would have to move the bar out with your hand and then slide it back in position when the bike started, not an ideal situation in a section. The standard type can be used entirely with your foot.

My advice would be to try and find a complete bike. Bike specific parts are getting harder to find and are generally expensive. You used to be able to find all sorts of parts on Ebay and the like but that source has all but dried up. If you can do the work yourself the cost of getting one restored and trials ready can be kept to a minimum, however as soon as you start farming work out to shops etc be prepared to pay. Check around and make sure parts are available for the bike you choose, I have Bultacos and they are quite easy to keep going and find parts for and the engine/gearbox is super reliable as the same bottom end was used on MX bikes etc. I have a couple of mates with TYs and they seem pretty good as well.

Standard Bultaco rise is 5 1/2" some people use a 6" . I prefer the lower bars, but it's personal preference

There is an OKO dealer in Australia who apparently is easy to deal with, you can also search for a Keihin PWK 28 which is what the OKO is a copy of

Definitely a neat fit, but should slide together with minimal force by hand, not 'pressed' in.

Should only be one ball and the fibre clutches as so much better in operation. Not sure what the thickness ends up being as you use less plates in total, but similar to the original. Surflex comes as a kit with new steels and springs

There is also a difference between Surflex and Barnett clutch plates. If you are using a standard clutch [all steel plates] it's a very simple design, maybe you have an extra steel plate in there?

Yes, on the inside of the flywheel. Which puller did you end up using?

33 should be right for a Femsa ignition, not sure what Lobitos had though

I am pretty sure the PHBL was first used in the early 90's when the GasGas went to the case reed motor and they were looking for a smaller [as in physical size] carbie to fit in the reduced space. I think they were used on mopeds as a 22/24mm and were bored out to 26mm for the trials bikes.I have a PHBL and a PHBH and they both have the mixture/air screw in the same position - on the engine side.

Try and get one with a flanged rear rim. The earlier conventional type of rims are prone to leaking air and corrosion which can be an expensive fix

The VHST is a flat slide and not the same as the PHBL, even though they look similar. They were not an easy carb to set up unlike the PHBL series

As has been said before the Bultaco alloy is of good quality and can be welded. If you are going to paint them black then the dressing of the weld is not as important. If you are polishing them, then obviously more effort is required which is half the fun of restoring a classic bike and the end result should put a smile on your face since you have done it yourself.

85mm is the standard bore size for the 340