garyo

Hi, thanks, got the size you said and removed the kick starter and used 2 picks, it popped right out and the new one went in without too much trouble, job done Thanks Gary

Hi, does anyone know the seal size for the kickstart shaft in the clutch casing? Also can this be changed out without removing the clutch casing Cheers Gary

Fitted the 13t tonight, had 2 remove 2 links from the chain, so I now have 13/37 2.85 to 1 I must say it has totally transformed the bike, 1 an2 are quite low, 3 is ok, 4 and 5 are what I wanted and 6 will still pull. I blasted it down the rd and got to 60 in no time, it was still pulling but a bend was approaching so slowed up and turned around and went back home. The stock is 15/45 which ends up at 3.00 to 1 so close to this and would be spot on. Will invest in a new chain n sprocket set later in the year as other jobs to sort on it, but over all quite chuffed

Yep, the 13 is on order, will try it then if needed step up a tooth, i will be happy if i can get some rpm on 5th to stop the 2t just pouring in. Currently 1 to 4 is like a road bike, so if i can get 2 to 5 would be better. The bike is only going to be ran about 5 to 10 miles per week,a if im lucky min would be 2 miles. Friday night to bike night 1 mile away, and if nice to airfield on a sat or sun 4 miles away. I have an aeroplane that I spend my time mostly with at w/ends, hence no trials riding. I will prob restore the bike over the next winter then decide on what to do with it. I have a 1974 fizzy that I fully restored, but only do about 100 miles a year on.

Thanks, yes the bike has all the original bits on it and never trialed. I have done the crank seal, inc the shaft o ring, stripped and cleaned carb, fuel tap, this was grotty, points, and condenser, they were sparking like a sparkler, now no arching, new plug, seems to get quite oilly wet, checked the oil pump and set this to book, but i suppose if you open the throttle and its not pulling then all you are doing is pumping excess oil into the pot thats not getting burnt. Brakes not binding. I put caustick on the end pipe, it is still the original big black silencer, will try and find a ty 175 1 to try on it. Could the rest of the exhaust be blocked? Ordered a 13t sprocket to see what it does. I also found in the yamaha parts book for the 125, they list a 15t/45t combo on the sprockets, so 2 conflicting sets, would of thought this combo would be better than the haynes quoted set detailed above. So a 13/37 would put it somewere close to a 15/45 allowing 1 on the front is equivelent to 3 on the rear?

Hi, the 125 was designed for road usage, this bike still has all the bits on it from factory, bat box, indicators etc. I have just checked the haynes manual and bizzarley it states a 17t/37t combo. So i must have other issues preventing from pulling and bogging down, throttle response in 5 gear from half to full throttle is nothing just an induction noise I assume i have a blocked exhasust? I am thinking first to try a 15t front sprocket and assume this will let the engine rev harder in 5th gear? Or go for a 13t? The standard ty175 sprockets are 13t/51t

Hi, i am using my ty 125 on the road, what would the best combo sprockets be? Currently it had a 17/37 combo, and wont go more than 40 mph and combletelly flat, can manage to get into 5th gear but not in 6th.

Got it all back together only to make a school boy mistake and put a longer bolt in the kick starter and holled the casing, not happy and now have to strip the whole lot down again and try and find a welder

Hi, i found the oring on the shaft, the spacer just slides on with no resistance from the oring, i removed it and it is cracking, perished, replaced this with a new 1 and the spacer now has a posative grip from the o ring, so fingers crossed all should be good, will be rebuilt by w/end for testing

Seal not in backwards as a double lip and spring seal. I bought the clutch n flywheel tool that is brill, got it all stripped and the seal out, i noticed that the oring was missing from the bike, so assume this has been causing the issue? The seal kit has this oring, looking at the dwg it shows the seal, then the o ring then the spacer, so does the oring sit on the shaft and the spacer buts it against the casing, or does the oring go on the spacer and but against the seal, i dont know, help please Cheers Gary

A

Dont seem to be able to post a pic now

Started to strip the side off ready for the parts coming, it looked like the seal is in backwards as i could see the internal spring, but the pic does not really show what i seen, it was evident someone gas been here before. Question what direction are the idler gear and clutch basket nuts

Hi larry, i am in norfolk uk. I am re living or trying to re live my youth. I bought the same model and year new in 1994, so exactly the same. I suspect the seals as the gunk on the back is really thick oil, this was from 15 mins running, back in the day i dont remember it being like this, also the plug is wet with black oil, again should not be like this. I changed the oil a few days ago and topped it up last night, so putting all these things together made me think of the right hand seal. I would dread to think what it would be like after an hrs running. The motor starts first kick, ticks over very well but feels lumpy and was down on power when riding it. When going into 5th it lacked pull, when going into 6th it was completely gutless