fergush

Ross Rev3s suffer from the little tab on the frame to which the silencer bolts bending so it no longer holds the body of the silencer away from the tyre. Whatever you do afterwards, you're going to have to bend the tab back so there is just enough clearance for the tyre (and try not to drop the bike on that side, so you don't have to do it again). It should be no big deal - I recall doing it by just pulling on the silencer body until it came back in line - nothing broke, but then perhaps I was lucky. After that: if you have no hole why not leave it alone; but if you already have a hole then why not pop-rivet a tidy plate over it? Surely a new unit is going to be expensive! Cheers Fergus

Have you considered Trialcast levers? They may be exactly what you want. To quote the website "Trialcast Beta levers are cast from high silicon LM6 alloy. LM6 offers a higher degree of elasticity than other cheaper alloys. This unique physical quality enables the lever to bend rather than break, without compromising strength. Will fit the 200, 250, and 270 in the '05 range, and all models from 2006 onwards." See http://www.trialcast.co.uk/product.php?id_product=38 I can't comment on the levers, but the ghost pegs and hangers have done my Betas very well.

Either throw the spare wheel in the back of the car; or get Dave Cooper's rack with extended arms to give you enough clearance from it. The bike/rack combo moves more, which can be a bit alarming when you look in the mirror, but otherwise it works well on my Honda CRV. DC's standard rack put the bike a touch too close to the spare and I realised that adding in movement as you go down the road meant that the bike was bound to get a bit of damage by jouney's end. I reckoned it was better to lash out on a new rack than arrive at a trial brimming with expectation and find the bike was now unfit to ride.

If it fits a 315 it should be good on the 311.

Lennie This is what I was told to do by Lampkins and it worked for me (novice route electrician). Get yourself a decent Yamaha type kill switch - lots of posts on that in Beta. Take off the cover on the right hand side of the headstock pull all the wires out and if you pull apart all the connectors and remove headlight and switch unit you should be left with two yellow and one black from the bike. Connect the yellows to each other (so your fan works) and tape up. Feed in your kill switch wires and connect one to the black; tape up. The other lead of your kill switch will need a ring terminal on it and connecting to ground using the upper bolt holding on the coil; I think there's another ring terminal that goes on there, so ensure you don't miss that when you add your ring. It's all a bit fiddly, but not bad at all. Keep as much length on the kill switch wire as you can as, with the fat bars preventing a central mounting, your switch will need to go up by the levers. Cheers Ferg

Try Tony Galea at Galea Cam Chain Services; I don't know if he would be interested, but a jobs a job and he's on the edge of Wickford, so very close to Rayleigh. He does the stuff I won't touch on my roadbike; and so far so good. Tel. 01268 735355 or mobile 07860152188 Postcode is SS12 9EJ for Multimap.com

Either remove sump guard to get access to drain plug; or remove clutch cover and tip the bike on its side. Neither option is ideal, but there you go!