kurtas

From memory they just use the spring in the master cylinder. Have you got free play at the levers, otherwise they will pump up and drag. otherwise the pistons at the caliper or the piston in the master cylinder is at fault. Fairly common for crap to get up into the master cylinder and start causing problems.

Have you removed and decoked the entire exhaust system? How much oil have you used in the air filter?

Fixed it for you. Best advice is to point it in a direction free of obstacles.

Beta has the easiest kick of all the bikes. If he likes a 250 over the 125 you need to look at a flywheel weight or carburation, the 2012 Beta 125 may have been running lean.

I use a deep socket

Don't get a Montesa if you want a quiet bike. I'd probably keep the Rev before the Tenaci Wong, you would have no real performance gain by changing. Clutches will be equivalent on a newer bike then what the Rev is, the mechanical function is the same. The diaphragm clutches of GasGas, Ossa and late model Sherco, Scorpa seem to offer a larger friction zone than the basket clutch design but it is marginal and nothing you cant adapt to. Have you filed the faces of the clutch basket where the tangs of the clutch plates contact, if these have worn grooves you would get a light switch clutch.

Nothing tells the gears they aren't lubricated with oil

Sounds like you're missing gearbox oil

How does a bike Snack? Clean carby and try again but sounds like HT coil if it runs okay without any load.

Paint Thinners works good for removing carbon.

Normally pop on by 70-80 Pound. Have you tried bouncing the tyre on the ground while at 70 pound in the location where it hasn't fully seated.

Bold new graphics and Aluminium side stand is my guess.

Too much fuel if only starts full throttle. If you can get it running disconnect the fuel hose and let it idle until it runs out of fuel, give it a week then reconnect the fuel hose and start it immediately. If your problems solved you need to look at the float needle valve.

If its sparking a nice blue outside your engine as arthritic suggests you've got a fuel/carby problem. Since its so immediate it is obviously a significant error. Could be flooded crankcase from leaving fuel tap on for a long period, ensure it is empty by kicking without fuel connected and spark plug out. Is float height correct, floats fitted correct way, float valve seating correctly, needle fitted correctly to slide, jets fitted correctly.

Does it spark with plug outside the engine? Disconnect the Kill switch - repeat. Check voltage to HT coil Then maybe CDI.

Remote reservoir for the rear shock?

What is the engine braking feel compared to the 300RR? E-Pure SL350 Cota 349 Sherpa 159 How did I go?

Don't know but my guess is the length between the Counter shaft sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket is different between 2T and 4T.

Most likely the piston seal of the master cylinder is buggered and oil slowly bypasses as you hold pressure. I have ridden a trial ABSing the rear brake because I didn't have a rebuild kit.

Are you a previous Montesa owner? If not you may have the wrist connected to knee syndrome where you crack the throttle on every time you kick start the bike. They like to be started on zero throttle.

Looks like its off a Beta and early Betas had Paioli's.

What I would do: Really give it a good clean out with wire brush, emery etc and then basically render the whole inside with a liquid metal epoxy. Sand/grind it all back so your impeller fits, replace the seal and never speak of it again.

Isn't that a car engine oil? so you would be running friction modifiers etc explaining the clutch slip.

Get an impact driver onto it. You never want to use something to wedge a gear/basket/whatever.

learn to bend your ankle, obviously if you're leaning back you won't have to bend it as far. You need to cover the brake to save yourself going a*** over tit if you go beyond the balance point.