drca

Final pipe? I have a 2013 TXT Pro 250 and the mid pipe is aluminum with a plastic end cap and an aluminum insert at the end of the plastic end cap. Then inside there is packing and an steel perforated tube going between the Al insert in teh end cap and the bottom of the mid pipe. What's different on later models?

I am in California and here it's so hot and dry that we are not even allowed to joke about this type of things....

Smashed my exhaust muffler on my 2013 TXT today (well, that was the last stroke of a long abusing relationship I am having with it ) so I am going to get a replacement. I have a couple of questions: Are the aluminum muffler ends (to replace the plastic ones) worth it? My concern is that to some extent the plastic one smashes on a big it and protects the mid pipe from damages. So it's a $50 sacrificial part vs. $500 one! The mid box can be refurbished, but that's a lot of work (cut, clean, repack, reweld) and too much downtime. But... is it (refurbishing or getting a new one) worth it? What's the impact on performance. My bike is getting sluggish off the bottom, could be a lot of things tho (carb, rings, piston, pipe, etc...). As always, thanks in advance for the help. Cheers.

Hi Rick: Good choice. I think that by the time you paid for shipping and the time you'll sink getting it legal you'll come ahead by buying a local bike. Some other things to consider when "importing" a bike: DMV will make you get a VIN inspection from the CHP (just that process takes at least one month in the Bay Area to get an appointment with the CHP). If you import a bike (or just an engine), customs will ask you to get it approved by the EPA... And that's another untold number of hours that you will sink in chasing the EPA, the customs, etc... etc... If you import the bike as a bunch of separate parts, DMV will still ask you for either a MSO (Manufacturer Statement of Origin) or bill of sales for all the parts you bought to assemble the bike. Then (if they accept the bike!) they will use as a tax basis the the total cost of the parts + your labor (at a nominal labor rate). And that won't get you a green sticker unless you have a frame older than 2002. Worth the risks and hassles? Nah! Best is to find a local bike. If your electric bike is an Electric Motion if I were you I'd stick with it. As a newbie, it i going to take quite a while for you to see the difference in performance between that and a petrol powered bike, unless you want to start riding PITS event, in which case you might need a spare battery pack. Gas bike: if you want to ride year round there are a few "newer" unicorn bikes that have slipped through the DMV and have green stickers but these are few and very far in between. Best would be to get a 2002 in good shape (Beta or GG). If you are just starting to ride, you won't make the difference. Then invest your money in some riding lessons with Adrian in Copperopolis (but wait until fall because it's gotta be too f****g hot there right now). Happy trails. DC

Great! Now... trick question... which of the spokes have the LH and RH thread?

Mostly curious...I was wondering if anyone know anything about the thread on the spokes and wheel nuts on a tubeless flanged wheel? I know the threads are rolled instead of cut (easier / cheaper / more robust) but thread standard metric size, imperial or some special secret type used only for spokes? Thanks.

This is probably a long shot, but just in case... I am going to respray (powder coat actually) some of the original parts of my 300 and I'd like as much as possible to match the original Fantic color. I was wondering if anyone has a reference (pantone for example) for the original color? Also, I am looking for vector graphics of the logos, especially this one: Thanks in advance for any help.

In my neck of the wood (San Francisco Bay Area), it's either AHRMA or local club rules (which is the Sacratmento PITS and it's basically "dual sock", race what you bring as long as it's dual sock!). So I got myself a cheap 1984 Fantic 300 that I am starting to strip out and will do a "restomod" on

I ended up using a Kydex sheet which is pretty tough and thermoformable and available online or locally in the US at any TapPlastic (altho these guys think it's ABS!). I use 1/4" (6mm). The sheet I got came out of the remnant bin and cost $1 but was on the narrow side so I didn't get all the coverage I wanted (width wise). Here is what it looks like: I ended using the same material in 1/8" for doing frame rail protectors: These are held with thin strips of Scotch Extreme Mounting Tape (that stuff is so good that it might peel off the powder coating when I try to pry them off!).

Fantastic! You guys are the best. Thanks!

My searches to unearth a set of manuals (shop and user) as well as a part list / microfiches for my 1984 Fantic 300 Pro have come up empty. Are these available anywhere? English, French, Spanish or even Italian will do. Thanks.

Great. That's what I thought after taking the side cover off the engine. I see that you have a hydraulic clutch conversion. What hardware do you use? Anyone done the same conversion on the front brake?

Great, thanks! I'll start stripping the paint. Side question: the hose that arrives just above the sprocket? It's is missing on my bike so I don't know where is connects to.

My "new to me" Fantic 300 I just bought came with a stator that the previous owner had taken apart with the goal of repairing. Here are the parts I got... So, being new to this (the Fantic) my question is where do I go from here? I am not even sure if the spare widings are working (I can test them for continuity and resistance - what should I be lookig for). Looks like on the stator there are different size winding (fat and skinny) and it looks like the missing one is a "skinny" one. There are more wires hanging un-soldered than I expected to connect just one winding... Once I put it together, short of putting it into the bike and checking if there is spark, how do I test it? Thanks for the help (on what I think is going to be one of many many questions I'll have in the next few months). DC

I just got myself a 1984 Fantic 300. It's a non runner (stator failure - I'll post more in a different post to try to avoid mixing stuff). I came with just a Bill of Sales (no paperwork whatsoever) and being California... it's already a problem. I spent 2 hours at the DMV right after getting it and basically I need to get it inspected by the CHP (California Highway Patrol) to "certify" the VIN number and engine number. But... there is no "standard" (13 digits) VIN on the bike and I couldn't find any engine number where I would expect one (i.e. behind the cylinder on the right side center case). Here are photos of what I have: If anyone has registered a Fantic of that vintage in Califonia, any tip would be appreciated. Thanks.

I am thinking about getting into some "classic" or "vintage" trials events next year, and since I need a new build project, I thought it might be nice to build a decent vintage trials bike. Mind you, my level is novice at best (been riding trials for a year, I can balance, do lock to lock turns, clean 1' to 1.5' obstacles). I looked for the AHRMA rule books for trials and the classes listed on their web site are: 13.1.1 PREMIER HEAVYWEIGHT: Certain pre-1965 era and like design, non-unit construction (separate, removable gearbox), four-stroke machines, 350cc and larger. Examples: BSA B32, Ariel HT., Triumph Trophy, Royal Enfield Bullet, etc., or accurate replicas of such machines. Modifications and major components are limited to the era and must be typical of the heavyweight machines of the 1960s. The following requirements apply to Triumph unit twin works replicas: Any unit Triumph twin engine may be used; the standard pre-1966 twin frame and rear hub must be employed; only the rear frame section may be modified to period specifications; must use any year all-steel Triumph forks, standard length; must use any year all-steel Triumph oil tank; must use any Triumph steel or iron front hub; and may use any period gas tank, seat, rims, etc. 13.1.2 PREMIER LIGHTWEIGHT: Certain pre-1965 era and like design, unit- or non-unit construction, two- or four-stroke machines, 250cc and smaller. Also, unit-construction, four-stroke machines over 300cc. Examples: Greeves, Dot, Cotton (Villiers-powered), unit-construction BSA singles or twins, Royal Enfield Crusader, Triumph Cub, Triumph 500 unit twin or Triumph-powered Greeves. Hondas are limited to CB160, CL72 and CL77. Modifications and major components are limited to those of the era, typical of machines in the 1960s. 13.1.3 RIGID LIGHTWEIGHT: Any non-swing-arm machine, including those equipped with plunger or sprung-hub rear suspension, typical of those used in the pre-swingarm era. Engine displacement up to 300cc, as manufactured, two- and four-strokes. Modifications and major components are limited to those typically used into the 1950s. Ceriani-type forks are not allowed. 13.1.4 RIGID HEAVYWEIGHT: Chassis and modifications as above, utilizing 301cc and larger non-unit-construction four-stroke engines. 13.1.5 GIRDER FORK: Any rigid-frame, girder-fork machine. Modifications and major components are limited to those of the era, typical of pre-war machines. Plunger frames and sprung hubs are not permitted. 13.1.6 MODERN CLASSIC: Any unit-construction machine up to and including model year 1979. Examples: Bultaco five-speed 125-350, Suzuki RL250 & TS models, Beamish Suzuki, Montesa Cota 123-348, Ossa 250-350 MAR and BLT, Yamaha TY175/250 & AT/CT/DT models, Kawasaki KT250 & enduro models, Honda TL125/250 & SL/XL models, GRM Maverick rigid frames with four-stroke engines. TMI-framed Hondas and Frazier frames are eligible. Modifications and major components are limited to those of the era, typical of machines of the mid-’70s. SWM, Fantic or Beta motorcycles are not allowed. 13.1.7 CLASSIC: Any kit-framed two-stroke machine 175cc or less. Examples: Wassell, 88 89 Penton, Gaunt, Minarelli-powered Cotton, Puch-powered Greeves, Dalesman and Hodaka specials. Also any Spanish four-speed up to 250cc in original OEM frame. Examples: Ossa four-speed, Montesa four-speed, Bultaco four-speed, also GRM Maverick rigid frames with Classic-legal engines and GRM four-speed. Eligible fourstrokes include those legal for Premier Lightweight and Honda S90 and SL90. 13.1.8 BEGINNER: A non-championship class for beginning trials riders on any motorcycle eligible for AHRMA trials. If these are the actual classes, it means that the "youngest" a bike can be to be eligible is 1979, which would exclude all of the mid 80's bike such as the Fantic, SWM, some TY's and even the Honda TRL200 are out. So what class (if any) are these bikes running is? What I was hoping for is a "twin shock / drum brakes / air cooled / run what you bring" type of class. Now my local club (Sacaramento PITS) has a "twin shock" class defined as "1. Twin Shock – Any model year bike with twin-shock rear suspension" in their rule book. Is that pretty standard? What I am thinking about is picking up a Honda TL200 and building it up with modern components (better fork, rear shock, hydraulic clutch, etc.). Thanks for any info on this.

I am going to be looking at a '84 Fantic 300 later today or this week-end. The machine is NOT running due to electrical issues (owner says no spark and needs new stator). So where can I find a stator (if this indeed is the problem), how much does it cost. But in general (since if I get that bike the idea would be to do a restoration), how hard / easy are parts to find, especially in the USA? And how much is a nicely restored bike worth. DC

Here are a few tips that helped me: Look about 10 to 20 meters (30 to 60 feet) straight out, not at your front wheel. When you can balance for more than 10 seconds, start looking around, left and right. Front wheel turned almost to the stop, much much easier than with the wheel straight. And the trick is to use small movement of the wheel to keep balance. I think the reason why is that when you put some force on the bar to turn the wheel, not only it turns the front wheel, but it causes you to move your body and shift your weight. Talking about front wheel turned, ss mentioned before, everyone seems to have a "preferred" side. Start with that side. When you are comfortable and can balance on that side, work on the other side (no reason to spend time on your "unnatural" side if you can't balance on your natural side!). Move your butt from side to side to balance. This has also helped me a lot. Small movements should be sufficient to keep you on the balancing edge once you find it. Most people starting to learn balance (including me, and I still do it) give big inputs on the pegs which are hard to control and will cause to have to overcompensate with bigger input, etc... Moving just your butt from one side to the other causes you to slightly move your weight from one peg to the other in a much more controllable way. People (!) say you should use bar movement rather than shifting weight no the pegs... not easy for me! For me starting from one foot on the ground to balancing is the hardest, so I use a small stool of approximately the same height at the pegs. This way I can start with one foot on one peg and one foot on the stool and slowly shift to both feet on the bike to find the balancing point. Finally I use a small sand bag under the front wheel. That has helped me tremendously, not sure why. Hope this helps. DC

Here is a slow motion video showing pretty advance (for me!) techniques but I found it very useful anyways:

Glad to help and return the favor. I've gotten plenty of good help on this and other forums in the past. BTW, Jim Snell is usually a good resource for this can of stuff, altho he hasn't been active here for quite a while.

Here is what I have for a 2007 gasser, should be pretty close! That's from Jim Snell's.