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jrsunt

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Posts posted by jrsunt
 
 
  1. The 4RT does not have muffler packing and I have not noticed any real change in the sound as the years go by. When I heard yours last weekend in Revelstoke, it sounded normal to me.

    There is packing in the silencer, at the front pipe end it is a very dense material which tends not to burn out, the rest of the silencer body is a more conventional packing material. Probably worth packing it while you've got it apart. Use a good quality heat resistant silicone to seal it together. Normal silicone will burn out.

  2. Motul 300v or similar bike branded oil 5w30 in gearbox and engine, if its good enough for 100+bhp superbikes shoving bucket loads of torque through a wet clutch then its more than good enough for a 4rt. Used it in all my clutches for the last 9 years, only ever replaced 1 clutch pack.

    Perhaps elf had some arrangement with honda to recommend their product for x amount of years, what does it recommend in the CR or XR manuals?

    • Like 1
  3. You'll find compression on every 4th rotation of the flywheel with the T showing in the timing hole. Hold a piece of electrical wire into the spark plug hole, feeling for piston at TDC and checking the valvues for movement. Keep repeating the process until you are happy with tdc on compression and T in the timing hole. Get someone to help as an extra pair of hands is useful.

    The tricky bit is setting the clearances correctly as the feeler guage does not go in level and tends to snag quite a bit.

    Take your time with it all, they're not impossibe to do. First time took me hours trying to sus the tdc thing.

  4. As far as I can remember they are a 32005 but cant remember the letter after (possibly F), not sure tho, so dont go ordering some without getting 1 measured! Many other bikes use the 32005 but the letter makes the monts hard to find and more expensive. They are a honda specific part. Outside diameter 47mm, inside 26mm. Its probably easier and quicker to get genuine honda.

  5. Link the 2 outside wires together, there's 3 in total. I think its red/white and the green, but its definitely the outside wires and blank the middle (possibly white) wire off.

    The angle sensors were troublesome on some early models, not allowing the bike to start. Think they're ok on later bikes, but taking it off and moving the relay directly behind the shocker to the head stock under the tank (the wire comes from there anyway) does tidy that part of the bike up.

    • Like 1
  6. The oil comes from the cylinder head breather. Due to legislation, whether its european or japanese, it states that no fluids are to go to ground. To do that they put the breather in the airbox, which is fine until the bike is running upside down or on its side and it fills your airbox with engine oil.

    Disconnect the pipe from the airbox, throw away the tank and put the head breather pipe down the side of the radiator into the sump guard

    • Like 1
  7. Yeah they run pretty much constanty when they're upto temp. If there's any problems the fan won't cut in and coolant will trickle from the pump cover.

    It may be worth checking the water pump gear/shaft as they get very scored if its done alot of work. Change shaft, seal and I think 2 bearings.

    • Like 1
  8. Check the throttle cable is seated correctly as mentioned above. Also it will be a pig to start if the idle is set too low. Get it bump started again and make sure it has a steady tickover.

  9. If your going to the lengths of stripping the frame, check for cracks around where the footrest hangers bolt on, it can be a weak area if the bike has had a tough time. If they break off, its not an easy fix.

    Replace oil and filter as already stated, i run Motul 300v 5w30 and use it in the clutch and gearbox. 1ltr will replace both.

    Probably best to put a new plug in, just to keep her sweet. Other than that ENJOY

  10. The carbon braces can break, but only on big impacts. Instead of the forks twisting in the yolkes as they do with the alloy brace, it'll snap the carbon across the bolt holes. Like I said they only break on big impacts, I've done 2 in 9 years so they're pretty good overall.

    The case saver is a worth while buy.

  11. just like to say thanks for all the feed back I got, think I will be getting the feeler gauge out is there anything I have to be careful of, regards to all

    It can be awkward finding top dead centre on the compression stroke, but otherwise ok to do.

  12. Dadof2, Got the bike sorted. She had no spark, tried a new plug and did a lot of head scratching and cursing at the time but turned out to be simple. The wire from the fuel pump back to the wiring loom had somehow become disconnected at the block connector! Plugged it back together and started 2nd kick.

    The last time I had the tank off was after the scottish, so I presume I hadn't pushed the connector home properly, annoying but at least it hasn't cost a bucket load to fix.

  13. Ha ha, they are always some of my boogie sections, they just felt like ice! Ran nearly 5psi in rear dunlop to avoid punctures.

    I could have done with some outside assistance from someone with a diagnostic kit for a mont! "Why won't this bl@@dy thing start"

    • Like 1
  14. Observers have the opportunity in their observer books to make remarks regarding completing the section, if the observer does not think a given rider has made a valid attempt to the section, it can result in the disqualification of said rider(s). It has happened before and will happen again.

    This years event was good, didn't seem any harder than previous years, its meant to be tough! The sections aren't that hard, similar to centre championship std, its just because they are ridden blind and your arms are completely shot.

    I hope it is possible to mark the 100th year with 100 miles and 100 sections as it will truly be the ultimate test for any trials rider. Roll on 2014!

 
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