jrsunt

astars offer the most support, but they're not lasting me more than 8 months.

change em about every 3 months, or after a big crash landing on the bars. it's not worth the risk of mashing yer face and plus its a confidence thing. you can ride at 100% without the worry of em breaking on big hits. Look at fugi's bars at sheffield, they were probably brand new!

if you read the origional post, you'll find it's not my bike, just helping a friend.

THE STATOR PLATE ON THE PRO IS FIXED AND CAN'T BE ADVANCED OR RETARDED.

retarding the ignition will alter the power throughout the rev range. will have to look into the programmable ignition, need to speak with someone at the factory i guess. Tryin a larger main jet may be a benefit. will give it a try. Cheer all.

3 months

I've been racking my brains all morning on this one. On a Gas Gas 280 pro raga replica, there is just too much top end power, what i mean is from nothing to 2/3 throttle the power is fine, nice and linear, offering plenty of manageable grip, the problem starts when using the top end, last 3rd of the throttle, the power seems very lumpy, it tends to come in all of a sudden, very good for dry conditions but not good for slippery english sections. I am running out of ideas, we dont want to alter the bottom end at all, but there seems to be no way of softening the top end without the bottom. ANY IDEAS? lowering compression, reed valve, carburation is good, base gasket/head spacer, different electrics. I'm stuck. please help....... no i'm not switching camps just helping a friend.

sounds more electrical than anything else, probably the charge or pulsar coil beginning to break down behind the fly wheel. they are quite cheap and easy to replace. Or again take the flywheel off, if everything is covered in a white fungus (caused by dampness sat in there) that will also cause the spark to break down under load. Dry it all out, scrape all the ****e off and it should go.

Thats good news. Wonder if we'll ever see over 100 riders competing in a world round again. My ultimate ambition: to score a world championship point!! a long way off at the mo, but training hard.

i sort of considered it, might give it a go next year. would like to speak to people who have already done it.

if there was mud that deep, i'd go around it, save the c+s, brake pads and bearings.

The extra jets and needles were to put in after the bike has been run in, but if you are happy with the way the bike runs, i would recommend you leave it as standard.

Dont tape the holes over as it does not allow sufficiant air into the air box, making it feel choked up. The best thing to use is some mesh.

yep

Not giving any of my secrets away!!

dont cover the holes in the rear fender, i preped mine for the scott, taped the holes up to prevent water and shi7e entering the box, had a 5 min warm up around the start field and the bike was choked up due to restricting the air. Use the mesh or leave em open. I've thought abut using the mesh on the filter lid mouth, but never tried it.

The Renthal R1 chain offers oring performance without sapping power and it cost around

01274566122 tel no.

Mornin gary, were you riding anywhere yesterday? and how is the beta goin?

Very tricky mark, on the 04 rev3, the the top fork brace is part of the lower handlebar clamps. The tapered bars arn't a problem, (i fitted a set of renthals to my SY) but they wern't cheap at nearly

Can anyone tell me the web address for the Dougie Lampkin trials challange game. Now its quiet at work, i need something to do! I know it was mentioned not long ago, but never had chance to try it.

I use kevlay short fork protectors, they are

When the bike is running lean, it usually makes the power more lumpy and harder to bring the power in smoothly on the bottom end, bad for slippery conditions because it makes the rear wheel want to break traction. When you have it slightly rich, its good for the slippery stuff because the power is more linear and not as snatchy. Although it may not rev completly out every time it is more favourable at this time of the year, (its like running with the timing slightly retarded). When it is set up perfect, the engine should feel strong throughout the rev range, without any peaks or troughs in the power. The mixture screw makes massive changes, the weather has alot to do with how your bike runs. I agree with charlie, if you ride on a tick over it 3rd/4th gear then crack the throttle open the engine should not faulter, it should want to throw you over the back and keep on pulling like that until it is flat out.

Hmm. Intresting, heres mine Stronger wheels Redisgn rear linkage that doesn't get damage from rocks and steps More adjustability on the timing and or power I dont see air filters as a problem, they do their job well enough. Billet calipers and master cylinders for increased feel and performance. an anti scratch coating for frames, rims, engine covers which is easily removed and placed. A nice Billet alloy frame for my mont.

Brilliant result for dougie, shame grimbo couldn't have made it a one, two. Well done to Shaun, a big achievement in just riding one of those trials. Its got to be a good basis for his future, and a great boost for his confidance.