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My personal training programme will involve riding the bike at least once before the event, probably to see if its running ok and to bed a tire in. But Like Baldilocks says, time on the bike is best, although up until 2010ish I'd be on the bike 4 times a week, months in advance, and the event actually never went too well.
Then kids came along, and the bike ends up being another shelf in the garage. Sleepless nights, no practice and general ill preparation seem to work well these days.
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Thats a tough one, There aren't many oil seals in the crankcases. Kickstart and gear lever shaft seals, Very unlikely. Oil pump seal, again very unlikely and the 2 crankseals, could be. Then there's the crankcase gasket or a defect in the cases. Is the bike under warranty?
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Is the oil definitely getting through? Before doing anything drastic, I'd be tempted to do a full oil change on both sides then you know the quantities are correct rather than going off the dipstick.
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You'll probably get used to standard after a while, everything in 1st gear. When we first got the 4rt's we'd run 10/42, slowed it down a little, but kept the very useable 1st gear without being too snappy off the bottom end. Then i got fed up of altering the chain, taking chunks off my knuckles and just learnt to ride 10/41.
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Great report pat, get the basics sorted and you'll be well away.
Practise figure of 8 turns, letting the bike lean on the inside leg and counter balancing by weighting the outside peg. Great for throttle control and body positioning.
Be gentle on the gear lever and gear box, it won't stand being heavy footed like the ninja.
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I believe toneh has done one, send him a message. Pretty straight forward by all accounts.
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I remember those joyful times of forgetting to reconnect the fuel pipe before putting the tank back on..... Good memories of my 315!
Also, I think its possible to put the floats in upside down on those funny carburettor thingys, keeping the float valve shut.
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Yes, bent selector shaft, easy enough to replace and fairly cheap. You need to remove the full clutch case cover and not the inspection cover to get access, so order a gasket too. Follow the manual and you'll be ok
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There should be no noticeable movement at the end of the swinging arm, less than a mm after a complete bearing and bush change. Was the all ball spherical bearing the same as the Honda part? I've tried to get after market spherical bearings and the quality has been very bad. Also a local bearing trader will stock the roller bearings and seals, ask for ntn or something similar. Always use the genuine honda bushes and spherical bearing. Not cheap but far better.
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A worthy cause, getting James to don his 1 piece suit again is priceless
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The hangers are nice for the bling factor, but the bike doesn't look too good once the frame has been welded and sprayed.
If your pottering around they'll probably be fine, but if your riding in anger, be aware
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Mines always a pig to start in gear, helps by taking the slack out of the throttle cable though.
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Top bloke, had time for anyone and everyone.
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Fuel pump to wiring harness connector. That will produce no or weak spark if dodgy, but runs ok when it get going
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Bad earth at ht coil perhaps
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Seeing as its getting to that time of year, other importers are giving out the bike preparation guides, I thought we best do one on here.
Don't leave preparation too late, as you could miss the parade on sunday afternoon.
Clean air filter
Change oils and filter
Spray with gt85
Fill up with petrol...... No scrap that, they fill you up in parc ferme.
If anyone else can think of anything I've missed, please add.
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I'm not sure if this applies to the latest models, but removing the headlight from the harness was part of the de restriction process on the previous models to allow full power.
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A new sump guard fits easily, but after a few bumps and bashes they become misshaped. When you come to change the oil filter the guard needs to come off, usually under lots of tension! Inevitably the sledge hammer comes out to reshape it to help re fitment.
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I can imagine the 300RR will be short of power, perhaps a turbo or supercharger needs to be fitted.
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As cornish said, the trick is to screw the front bolts in by a couple of threads only. Make sure the rubber pads are in the correct place and the rear should screw in fairly easily. Tighten all equally a little at a time. H&D ones are a good bit of kit and do take some hammer.
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something I haven't broken. I would also be pushing towards warranty on less than a year old.
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How about leave the family in london for the day, pop up to the mecca of trials, yorkshire, hire or borrow a bike
and get a ride in the cleveland trial run by Middlesbrough motorclub. Proper trial with proper sections. About 25mile lap and 50 sections. I'm sure they won't mind...... too much
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Have you reconnected the fuel pump wire under the tank
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Did you link the 2 outside wires together in the block connectork? Has it filled the airhox with the contents of the engine?
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