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trapezeartist

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  1. Moving on to the front brake, I find it fiddly to install the front brake pads, anti-rattle spring and retaining pin before fitting the calliper to the forks. So I made this guide to hold the pads in place while the calliper is being fitted. Once it's bolted on, insert the retaining pin and push the guide out, tucking the anti-rattle spring in place as it goes. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6977705
  2. It's good enough to use. Did a trial last weekend with no issues.
  3. It was a slight (invisible) distortion of the housing caused by the bike landing upside-down. After much fiddling, poking and swearing I identified that when the half of the clamp that is integral with the housing was pressed hard against the handlebar, the throttle tube was binding against the bar. I couldn't get it to work by packing with a thin piece of plastic so used about three turns of PVC tape around the bar. I still can't tighten the screws as much as I would like but it is working now.
  4. It's hard to tell, but I think that is the same length as the car version. I carry one bike in my Doblo car quite easily. It's a wheelchair conversion so the floor is lower giving extra headroom. OTOH I lose quite a lot of length due to the ramp.
  5. I've just come across an issue with my Domino throttle. After a small inversion that has left the throttle with a minor scar in the plastic (which may be a red herring), it has become sticky. Off the bike or with the clamp screws loose, it is fine. As soon as I start to tighten the clamp screws the self-closing disappears. I've tried packing the clamps with a thin piece of plastic: no good. I've tried tightening the clamp screws with the throttle off the handlebar and it works fine. Any ideas? I'm reluctant to take the throttle apart because of the return spring and the alignment of the gears, but that is looking like it will have to be my next move.
  6. Thanks chaps. But it wasn't intended as a trick question, Lineaway.
  7. I have to agree with you. I'm all in favour of a time limit to keep the show from stagnating, but let's not turn it into a race. Also the point in a section where a rider gets a 5 does have an influence on the overall timing, which really makes that aspect a lottery. Perhaps a time limit (not necessarily the same every time) for each section would be much better than an overall limit for 5 or 6 sections.
  8. If you're going to be miles from your car, surely personal safety comes into the equation too. Really, you shouldn't be riding alone, so that extremely comprehensive kit could be shared between the riders.
  9. I broke the lever lug off my front brake master cylinder at the weekend so I need a new master cylinder. Are AJP and Braktec the same thing? I thought they were different but I've seen them advertised as the same.
  10. I made a tool for holding the rear brake pads apart while fitting the rear wheel. It should work with any brake using a 3mm disc. There are two versions: V1 is the stronger one but needs the printer settings to be tweaked just right to make it a snug fit between the pads. V2 is more tolerant of a slight variation in dimensions but is probably less durable (but if you break it, just print another one). https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6947125
  11. I'm fairly new to the PRBR and have only done about 3 trials with it. Having previously had a FRB, I am still teaching my finger to use it in a progressive manner. Sometimes I just give it a small pull and expect the full effect, and other times I seem to pull it all the way back whatever. It's just a matter of getting used to it, I hope. I've also found the PRBR lever a bit difficult to reach at times. I had a rather alarming descent at the last trial when I missed the PRBR lever, then grabbed for anything in a hurry and got the clutch. More "getting used to" required. I don't use the clutch but I wouldn't remove it. I did consider replacing the clutch with the rear brake for a better feel, but I do want to learn to use the clutch someday. I don't think the PRBR totally replaces the rear brake either. Sometimes you need to lock the back wheel and only the friction brake will do that except in extreme conditions. You also have to learn that you can't feather from brake to throttle with the PRBR (or FRB) so sometimes you need to release the PRBR near the bottom of something and use a tiny bit of rear brake as you are transitioning to the throttle. If you open the throttle while the PRBR is on, nothing happens, so you give some more throttle, and then you get a bit of a surprise when you do come off the PRBR! I wish they had given the thing a better name too. It's such a mouthful.
  12. I have always assumed it's manual. And they seem to give the rider a small amount of margin.
  13. Following cascao's lead, I've now put the number board on Thingiverse for anyone who wants to make one. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6940919
  14. The dummy brake pad is a neat idea. I currently use a cable tie to hold the pads apart while putting in the back wheel, but it's not a perfect system. I think I'll try making something as a spacer with a nice little handle on the top for pulling it out. A similar idea could work on the front too.
  15. Way up near the start of this thread someone (ChrisCH I think) mentioned the virtues of "liquid hydrocarbons" as a fuel. That doesn't have to mean petrol, or any other petroleum derivative. There is a lot of work going into synthetic fuels and they have the advantage of running perfectly well in engines originally designed for petrol so all the millions of existing vehicles could use it. Even a pre-65 trials bike can go green, if you ignore the cloud of oil smoke following it around. A number of UK car racing classes are already using "sustainable" fuel (mostly alcohol-based) but synthetic fuels will come. Think of the chemical equation of the combustion of fuel. If you put energy in instead of taking energy out you can completely reverse it. At the moment the sustainable fuels are expensive, but economies of scale will bring that down. Then the only problem is how to produce enough electricity in a green way to support EVs, manufacture of synthetic fuel, domestic heat pumps and all the other things.
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