Given the way they like to have the back box re-packed every year already, if not more often, I figure it would make that worse. Both my and my other half's Gasgas' shed about a kilo when we sorted the exhausts.
Are you sure it says 2%? The manual for both my '04 125 TXT Pro and my other half's '02 250 Pampera says 1.5% (67:1), and I usually do 60:1 just to be on the safe side - both run at quite high revs though.
50:1 is what goes in the twin shocks, I'd expect a 'modern' bike to get oiled up by that kind of ratio
I may not really have sufficient experience to speak definitively, but I get the feeling the Montesa is the iPhone of trials bikes. High perceived value, very expensive, loyal customers, a bit behind the competition.
But also good quality.
I have to admit that not having to do premix, and ride at altitude without any changes, would be nice
I'm putting a new plug cap on, and the HT lead is looking a bit scabby (and has a suppressor) on what looks like an original coil - can I swap just the lead? Or do I just fit a new generic coil?
Had a bit of a ride last night, going to fit a slow throttle tube and a magnetic lanyard, there doesn't appear to be anything else that needs attention right now
The plan is for my other half to ride it on the Downland trial, and then it'll be a 'family bike' for green laning and light trials practice (I don't think I could handle it in a proper competition)
If I'm in a real hurry I stick a hairdrier down for a minute at a time, and pull it out when my fingers start to burn; otherwise I just sit them on the floor near (but not on) a heater and let convection be my friend
Ok, well I've managed to avoid messing about with carbs so far, so figured I'd ask - I know this is a common mod on TYs so thought someone could possibly just rattle off a part number or two from memory
I've got a WES single box to go on my TY, and plan on openning up the top of the air box - what size needle should I move up to to account for the additional breathing?
Wurth dry lube is great in the summer if you're not washing your bike on every outing. Wurth also do a light oil spray that's like WD40 but with more oil residue left, which I like.
On my street bike I use WD40 brand chain wax, which would probably be suitable for any longer distance rides like if you're taking a road legal trials bike up into the Pyrenees or along the Florida Way or something.
In cars, ATF oil have to be changed in intervals like 100.000km. Why on motorcycles we have to change it after 100km or less???
ATF usually needs changing at 50K ideally, engine oil at perhaps 10K on a modern car, or 3K on an old one. Most motorbikes use combined gearbox and engine oil, and have a wet clutch (rather than an automatic gearbox's belts and torque converter, which is a seperate fluid coupling) which means it all gets dirty faster; trials bikes also don't have an oil filter, which is why I can do 4K between oil changes on my Triumph but a fraction of that on the Gasgas.
"If you ride with a visor or goggles they must either: meet a British Standard and display a BSI Kitemark, or meet a European standard offering at least the same safety and protection as the British Standard and carry a mark equivalent to the BSI Kitemark ( UNECE Regulation 22.05)"
If you buy some from a reputable bike gear shop they should be up to spec, for road riding you can get sealed sunglasses to look cool with I have an 'adventure style' road legal full face helmet for when I'm on the road, I'd rather put up with slightly less visibility* off road than take the risk of loosing my chin on the road (17% of head injuries occur to the chin / front of face in road accidents).
*hardly any loss of visibility, has a visor and flip-down sunshield, and can take MX goggles, which is all handy for longer jaunts
See if you can get a Haynes manual, they go through doing engine work in beginner-friendly wording (I have one for the earlier TYs, would be surprised if there wasn't one for the monos, too)
Ok, after months spent running around in circles screaming with my hair on fire, the Pampera is slowly going back together. My GF is doing all the work at this point, I just supervise and occasionally lend an extra pair of hands.
We got a machinist to make up a new swingarm spindle after having to cut the old one out, it was simple and has a M14 fine thread on each end now so we can extract it more easily in the future. The only other cutting was to get the original bottom headset bearing off, which took ages as it was rusted badly.
All the bearings are standard sizes, however the biggest PITA has been sorting the ones that go into the shock itself. After being told the official price was £50 each we figured F that and found some that are the same size on paper, but with a brass outer ring for £18 each (couldn't find steel like the originals).
Now, the problem with brass is it's soft, so you press it into the shock and it just squashes the bearing together, making it useless. So, you have to gently file, wet n' dry, and polish the outside of the bearing, over and over, until it fits juuust right. Because if it was too loose it's just going to fall out at the worst moment.
Anyway, now it's just a matter of time (although the outer panels still need plastic welding for all the cracks).
It's going to be awesome, but in retrospect I wish we'd just got another XR250 like mine (or similar) and lowered it.
I have an 'adventure style' road legal full face helmet for when I'm on the road, I'd rather put up with slightly less visibility* off road than take the risk of loosing my chin on the road (17% of head injuries occur to the chin / front of face in road accidents).
Gearne re-sole
in Trials Gear
Posted
How are they holding up after more use?