briangg

Out of curiosity why do you feel you need more flywheel weight on a 125? What type of feel are you trying to get out of this? Usually on 125 your wanting a fast revving bike to get to the mid range and most importantly wide open where the power is quick when it is needed. Increasing bottom end is also a big thing to do but only so much can be done there without harming top end. I just dont see the benefit of more flywheel weight on a 125. Just would make the throttle response slower, rev slower even though it would hold rpm longer thats why you see guys keeping the throttle on at the top of obstacles on 125 more often. Then again its probably my riding style and being able to push a 125 to the limit on big obstacles is why i feel this way. But im still curious on your thoughts. good luck on your experiment.

80:1 honda HP2 used it for 10 years now

I never said i was a better rider than you. i was giving my background and experience to different terrains using the stock gearing so you didnt think i was some new rider that had no idea. Stock gearing ratio barely changed on the 2019. i would guess an internal gear change would be a big enough change they would acknowledge as a selling point so my guess is they didnt change it. Plus that would be extra expense spent on r and d. A 9/39 and a 10/42 by dividing it out is so close to the same. buy a 9 tooth and it will be so close to 10/42 you wont notice. Now hopefully some math from the deaf can help the blind ones worried about spending $100 on switching gearing after buying a $8000 (USA dollar) motorcycle. Math shows buy a new front sprocket as you did before and you will have basically same result....

Stock gearing is not horrible at all. i prefer it for all terrains(lived back east riding there for 7 years and living out west for 5 years). i never had an issue idk what the complaint is. maybe you should ride with it more and you will learn to like it. clutch control is the key. most top euros use it as well.

Ask Mike Komar. Again another new yorker. great guy and rider. i think he has some aprilia parts still.

Being up in new york, Chris Arnold used to i think still does ride a swm. He would be a good guy to pair up with about these. Good rider to might be the guy your talking about. He rode the D4 events. if you want to find him go to a d4 event someone if not half the club can help you out.

Looks like the video forgot step 1. WASH THE FREAKIN BIKE FIRST!!!! And on that wash your bike regularly

I disagree with lineaway on finger height being most important... in my opinion pack thickness is most important. The guy in the video didnt even measure the finger height only thing he cared about is the thickness, if he did care he should have measured before and after sanding the fibers. (so you can decide which you think is most important) Being a higher level rider, with having much different clutch mods and testing many different clutch pieces in my own gasgas. thickness is all i measure. ive had very good euro friend riders even tell me they dont measure finger height only pack thickness. as it was stated before thickness of the clutch changes the finger height so if thickness is good then height is good and thickness is the easiest to get right so there is no need to measure the fingers in my opinion. i just dont see how 9.85mm thickness is giving you such a tough pull as it should be killer nice pull at that thickness its not going to be the easiest ever but shouldnt be hard and the clutch at that thickness should work great. Check your master cylinder and make sure the lever isnt tightened so much it makes its harder to pull cause its pinched and also check the fluid in it. (make sure it is not mud looking) Also i would not in no way just burn my clutch in 4th gear against a wall or tree or whatever but if that works for you go for it. either get different steel or do the sanding method as your going to. The spec sheet shows a minimum thickness of 9.75mm so sanding some of that off you better watch cause that bit over you have will be gone quick and you will want some extra over that for when the clutch wears... below this the clutch will slip and will not work correctly from my experience. Id say 9.8mm is like the very thinnest id go with it but ehhh i personally wouldnt in my bike cause of wear and cause your stripping off clutch life.

So gasgas only has one spring, its called a bellevue spring basically looks like a ring. there isnt 5 or 6 or however many springs like moto bikes. This spring is only one they offer so cant really change it. Your clutch pack thickness is probably to thick which is why it is hard to pull. The clutch on 250, 280 and 300 is the exact same components and specs. Check thickness most people i know like 9.85-9.9mm thickness. you can go up to 10ish but that is hard pull(thicker the stiffer the pull). the minimum is 9.75mm so stay above that a bit for wear. Adjust thickness using different steel thicknesses. Also make sure clutch is bleed good and make sure it is all working correctly. good luck

as copemech said absolutely. a small chip can cause all sorts of noise. make sure you closely look as it doesnt take much to cause the noise. check all of them on clutch side, basket and all.

Kinda funny you say noise is from clutch side and the video shows flywheel side. Not that it matters really cause its a noise but still. Hard to tell anything from the video Also id look for a small chip in all the gears behind clutch cover first as a chip will make a ton of noise.

i have not seen it but Its the same lawn mower for the past 15 years im sure...... nothing to get excited over or to get your wallet out for...... Also most riders i know take kickstands off anyways.

Under the cap is a bladder type piece. A green colored one mean mineral oil and black means brake fluid. That clutch for that year was mineral oil from factory. Usually mineral oil is red or blue meaning its probably magura blood or shimano. Brake fluid is a brownish color like but being a 2013 the fluid probably looks like mud by now. Standard bleeding works well actually. So just pump and crack bleeder or syringe the clutch it doesnt matter its pretty forgiving to bleed. I think the clutch is the easiest to bleed as the air will work its way out the top by pumping the lever and tapping on the line. good luck

if you plan on splitting the engine, you must take the engine out of the frame as zippy said. if you do not take the clutch side cover off (waterpump and kickstarter go with that) then you will have to disconnect the clutch cable and then rebleed the clutch when your assembling it or you wont get the engine out of the frame to far. the clutch can stay on the engine though. what zippy said is a huge help and are good steps. With that said pick your poison, more bolts from taking the clutch side cover off letting it hang on the frame by the clutch cable or disconnect the clutch cable and leave the clutch cover on and rebleed clutch later. id probably recommend taking the clutch cover off then you can inspect the clutch plates for wear since it is an older bike and also make sure the gears are in good shape.

I bend bash plate on my gasgas probably twice a year back to close enough original. What i do is put it in a press and bend it till it looks better than it did and about how stock one looks like. i always eye ball it and always turns out good. i actually did this last week and bolted up perfect as always. Never had any problems with bolts not lining up.