riffraffretro

Thanks Craig... received safely. I really appreciate your help with this, you're a star. Take care Chris W

Thanks Craig... I've just tried sending you a PM, but it's not being delivered. Can you PM me? Really appreciate that 👍

Recently purchased an '02 SY250 with a view to registering it with DVLA. Nigel Birkett are the usual go-to for dating information, BUT as my bike pre-dates their association with Scorpa they're unable to provide the necessary paperwork (they were super helpful and responsive, by the way). Anyone able to point me in the right direction... I've contacted Scorpa, France - no response! TIA.

Thanks for the pointers, guys. I've gone with Comma Classic 20w50 as that's what the manufacturer recommends and others have used with success. As stated, at under £20 for 5l, it's cheap enough to change regularly.

Can anyone advise the best gearbox oil/fluid for the RL250 Beamish? I've seen modern 80W transmission oil recommended, as well as ATF. If ATF, what specification, Dexron 3, or something more advanced? Thanks in advance.

Thanks Keychange... y'know, I did wonder whether ATF would work for the 247. I've used it in everything else (315, Jota Gas, 4-Ride, etc), with great success, but it could be asking a little much of the seals and mating surfaces of a near 50 year old bike to work with something so thin. There again, others seem to get away with it. I guess I need to fix the leak, then finally, ride the bike... its only been 3 years without turning a wheel, but at least it starts first kick now and settles into a lovely raspy idle. Thanks for the help.

The 247 persists leaking ATF when running - fluid is leaking through the underslung clutch actuator pivot, where the arm meets the engine case (it's an early model). Anyone able to shed light on what type of seal is needed before I pull it apart... just hoping to save time and order the necessary before starting the job? Thanks again, in advance. CW

Yup, me too... I did the rounds trying to optimise the standard ignition and fuelling arrangement on my 247 and I mean, BIG TIME - timing set-up, condensor relocate, HT lead and plug replacement, points swap, air leak check, crank seals, carb strip and rebuild, fuel line replacement, the list goes on and on and on!. It simply refused to start, nothing, not even a suggestion of firing-up! Threw the towel in eventually and on the advice of a fellow TC 247 owner, made the call to Electrex World. Two hours of installation time and TWO kicks later (with the aid of a decompression lever, again on the advice of another TC enthusiast) and... perfection. Starts now second kick EVERY time, with a lovely even idle, perfect pick-up and no drama, whatsoever, even after months of not being used! It's the single most effective improvement I've made to the 247 and one, without which, I'd have likely sold it on as a project and bought something newer!

Yes, they carry a reasonable range of Cota parts and spares.

Yup, this is how I start my 247 fitted with a Venhill decompression kit. It makes the whole process easier IMO, and really does seem to remove the physicality and strain from the starting components.

I saw this on the S3 website earlier and wondered what it was, too. No issues with starting my 4-Ride, hot or cold - zero throttle and a firm, progressive 'sweep' sees it firing-up second kick, every time. S3 kit is usually bang on the money, so maybe things will deteriorate with age/use and starting will become more difficult as time and hours rack-up?

Has anyone carried out this de-cat/power-up conversion on a standard 4-Ride? http://inside.hondamc.com/upload/techdoc/Microdata PDF/COTA/Kit Full Power Cota 4RT 260 (YM14-Eng).pdf Any recommendations for exhaust headers, or other parts? Thanks in advance.

The Polisport fender looks identical to that used by S3... there again, it'll be a case of buying and trying, I guess.

Yes, it's the absence of threaded mounting holes located in the lower section of the steering head that necessitates a different solution. Fair play to S3 for working out a fix, but at £100 a pop, it'll be a few hours spent in the shed with some aluminium plate, an assortment of tools, lots of trial and error and a standard MX fender for me.

S3 manufacture a replacement high level enduro mudguard for the 4 Ride, but at £100 plus it's seriously more costly than buying standard bodywork from the likes of UFO, Polisport, etc. Has anyone had experience of making the change using a generic motocross type mudguard? I'm happy to pay the price for their gear selector kit, considering the engineering involved, but 100 quid for a plastic fender just doesn't seem right.