Jeff mc

I tried the old throttle body back on and it was really poor. Bogging down at all revs when the throttle is opened quickly. So the newer throttle body is in now with a shim in and it seems really good. So possible causes contributing were valve clearance on the tight side, poor connection on the 32 pin ecu and also the injector connection- cured by Di electrical grease. Thanks.

This is the new (second hand) theottlebody that I bought. I can only think that the position sensor in it is slightly worn too. I need to try my original one back on to fully see if it was the valves and Di electrical grease which worked. Like anything I should have changed one thing at a time but with limited time to tinker I changed as much as I could. I'll report back what I find though as it's stuff like this that will help others. ??

Right.... wait for it... I think I've fixed my bike thanks to your brilliant help- all of you. Valve clearance was set a bit tight. Slackened to the max clearance. Put some Di electrical grease on the 32 pin connector. Put a 1mm shim on the max throttle stop in the throttle body. Fired it up and revved great. Flicked the 1mm shin off because I'd just used hot glue as temporary. This made the back fire come back. So. Tight valves weren't helping and perhaps I need a shim fixing permanently. Throttle position sensor is perhaps worn. Much better though and light at the end of the tunnel!

Heading out to check valve clearances now. I may back them off a bit to the upper end of the tolerances to make sure.

Done a while ago.

I'm not sure if it has a plug for lights. I did find a 2pin socket with a red blank cover over it but though that would be for plugging a computer in to. No lights on it anyway. Thanks anyway though.

Thanks for the help.

Next stop will have to be swap over of tank and injector assembly to fully rule out the pump struggling under load.

Ok. May be worth checking then. I can't see them being that far off but I'll see. I guess it would be more of an issue if the clearance is not enough. That would mean the valves aren't closing fully wouldn't it.

Doesn't seem to make any difference how warm it is. I checked the valve clearances a few mo the back. I can't understand why that would depend on revs. If it was valve clearances would it not run rough right through the rev range? Starts and ticks over beautifully.

Right. It's not the earth on the coil. Not the main connections on the wiring loom. Tried the shim of metal on the full throttle stop. Checked the vacuum pipe on the fuel pressure regulator- its not split of blocked. Still misfiring and cutting out at full throttle.?

Thanks for all the thoughts fellas. And no I'm hoping not to have to get a new bike Cubby. Plenty of life in this one? . I have checked the earth wire. Runs well when not on full throttle. I have taken apart all the wiring harness connections and will re seat them just in case there's a poor connection. I'll let you all know how I get on.

Thanks for that info. I'll check it over.

Hiya, my 06 4rt has started cutting out at full throttle a few weeks ago. I've changed the tea bag filter and checked the fuel flow output and it's ok. New plug, swapped the throtte body for a known good one. It now struggles to build revs at low end and top end when throttle is opened quickly. Checked resistances at 32 pin Ecu plug. Only iignition coil - primary out of tolerance. Reading 2.2 ohms instead of 2.6 to 3.2 ohms. I have followed as many threads as I can but hope someone can shed some light on this problem. Thanks

Yes made to measure. I couldn't find any off the shelf ones which are close enough to the free and compressed length.

no. They wanted £140 for the four springs. I hadn't banked on that. Rode today and it slips in 4th and 5th but nothing that steady throttle movement won't deal with.

Flexosprings is definately the place to buy springs.

Loads of great info here fellas. Thanks very much- really appreciate your efforts. The mont 315 master cylinder I had heard of before but I think I'm going to try a washer on each spring to start with. I'm running basic silkolene light gear oil at the moment which may not be the best for the clutch but is hopefully going to look after the gear bearings. The ability to order specific springs for £20 sounds tailor made. That's my second best plan. I'll let you know how I get on. Jeff

Thanks for the comment. The clutch is much lighter and gives better feeling- less switch like with the two spring removed. The washers idea is good.

Thanks for the comment. The clutch is much lighter and gives better feeling- less switch like with the two spring removed. The washers idea is good. My bike is 06. Whilst I like the clutch for sections I'm not sure if the bike will be ok on road for a 2day trial.

Hiya all, I've taken two springs out of my 4rt clutch and put dimpled plates in which has given a lovely clutch but slips in high gears. I am looking for a heavier duty spring to replace two of the existing 4 springs with to stop it slipping. Problem is that the 4rt ones are 27.6mm long and the uprated 315 ones are 39mm. Anyone know of where to get hold of 27mm uprated springs?