maxwell smart

Hello Desmo. I believe u have it drawn right. the stator has two complete separate coils. one for the ignition system and one for the optional light system. the black/white lead is for the ignition and the yellow is for the lights 6 volt lighting. u will not use the yellow at all if no lights. the points connect to the ignition to supply a ground point that switches on and off to create each spark at the spark plug. remember they have to be clean enough to actually connect to ground or u will not make any spark. the kill switch grounds the system permanently when switched off to kill the spark. how does it work. when the points are open during the phase of rotation there open, the mag coil is energizing the primary side of the ignition coil, when the points close the voltage is stopped from flowing and the built up electrical field in the primary side of the ignition coil goes out thru the secondary side of the coil stepped up to a very high voltage thru winding ratio and travels to the spark plug and sparks to ground there. then the points open back up and the voltage flows again to the ignition coil building the voltage field and when the points close again it sparks again. remember its essential to use non resister spark plugs and non resister plug cap or the engine will never run right when u get it started, ive seen too many times people using 5k resister modern plugs or 5k plug cap and not understand why it wont run right, modern resister plugs and caps are only for electronic ignition system use and reduce the spark intensity on a points application causing poor running. check Wikipedia for the theory of points ignition systems for a clearer write up and understanding of the system, ill try to post up a wiring diagram later today. one more thing, the tl250 I purchased had a newly rebuilt engine but would not start in spite of having the three items for ignition , it would spark had compression and had fuel. but the cam that opens the points was assembled out of phase 180 degrees so the spark was happening on the wrong stroke . exhaust stroke not the compression stroke , took me a while before I figured it out. hope this helps. gotta go surfs up.

bill, take a look around the internet at articles focusing on the theory and principles of whats happening in a points style ignition, I think u will find it a good read . my point is u can gain an understanding of the components of a typical system and once u see what each piece does and when and why u can apply that to getting your bike right . the key is to understand what happens in one cycle of the engine to create one single spark . then it all gets much clearer the goal of each connection and item. and I notice the terminal block on the bike I believe only connects across left to right not top to bottom, so your green wires are not connected together as currently configured.

hello, ive been running a few old bikes lately. the first thing I want to mention is the point style ignition cannot use any type of resister in the sparkplug or plug cap. so don't make the mistake of purchasing a 5k resister sparkplug cap or modern iridium plug with a 5k resister built in, its critical to use the correct non resister sparkplug and cap or the bike will never run right when u get it running... points are just a connection to ground when they are closed, ive had nearly new points that when they sit too long the tarnish on the point pads prohibits the connection to ground and the voltage can not build up in the primary side of the ignition coil. if the points don't actually connect to ground because of tarnish on the pads u will never make any voltage. . I would find a wiring diagram for the bike, wire it exactly as shown, install new points so u know u are getting the connection to ground, set the point gap to the wider side of the specs so u get adequate dwell providing a good spark. when the points are closed the coil in the motor creates voltage that goes to the primary side of the sparkplug coil, when the points open the collapsing voltage field has no choice but to go out thru the secondary side of the coil that ups the voltage by winding ratio and sends it to the plug causing the spark. u need adequate dwell to give the spark time to happen before the points close again building up the primary field before disconnecting and sending the voltage to the plug again. the capacitor is not a critical component to running, its only function is to reduce the arc at the points and extend the life of the points, the bike will run wthout the capacitor but the points will have a shortened life from arc pitting. hope this info helps. capacitor and condenser the same part my bad reference

ethanol fuel has closed off the pilot jet, that's a great deal for that bike. I would buy it and soak the carb in hondabrite for 24hrs and install new jets and enjoy a great running honda. after the carb is done use the hondabrite to wash the bike and find out how a proper bike wash does for removing dirt and grease. full strength hondabrite will strip varnish from inside the carb. with the 24 hour soak.

Thanks for the link to the 2017 , I was not finding that one yet. the advice about the chain is correct as well. i've been looking and u cant find any chain in the states as light weight and durable as the oem. Also would like to purchase the long kickstart as well so my wife can have more joy attempting to start the 2015 4rt we bought for her. im looking to keep my bike all oem , I find that's the cheapest route in the long run most of the time. noticing now what I need is more available than I thought , I had forgotten how to find the part numbers and work with them.

thanks jimmy, I need to use google more often, didn't think of that.

with my single cylinder close proximity tachometer I have to set the rpm to 900/950 to achieve the proper idle of 1800/1850 . this has led me to think its only firing on the power stroke somehow

what I was really wanting to know is if any honda dealers have made the microfiche available to the public . I would like to be able to choose my own parts and purchase and have them sent to my shop. that's how I maintain all the other bikes in my riding and racing program. im not interested in trying to communicate with a parts guy at a dealership, thats not how it works anymore . I just called my favorite parts distributor and requested that they look at making montesa parts available thru their program, hopefully that solves my problem.

Oh , thanks lineaway I did not know that.

Im wondering if the recent increase in new montesa 4rt bikes in the states might help with parts availability. I know I can get parts thru exclusive distributors, but I would like to be able to go on Hondas microfiche and select and purchase parts thru my own choice of distributor.

I would put in new hydraulic fluid on the clutch system first if u have not yet

hello , the Honda tl is a great bike, check out my wifes post in Honda as "happy new year". we love our tl's . both bikes were built from ebay parts and the 250 painted by me in the garage. the 125 is a new oem tank with original paint,

Good morning Lineaway, I hear you about the warranty, but that's not the point. the sport of trials needs new participants. I personally don't see any company beside Honda working to bring anyone new into the sport. Honda has posted up the bike on their international website and welcomed one and all to come get a bike and try this wonderful discipline of trials motorcycling, that's what started this post, Honda making a bike accessible to this gentleman.

Hey Black, I feel like everyone missed the point here. the Honda montesa cota is first and foremost designed to bring in new riders to the sport of trials. in true Honda fashion its a bike that can satisfy beginners thru expert alike. maybe its not the favorite of folks that have trialed all their life and know where to get the low volume brands that might be lighter and more maneuverable than a cota . u didn't get excited about buying a sherco or beta or gas gas , u got excited about a cota because it was accessible. and u know there is a large company behind that product to support u in case of any issues it may have. so being a Honda fan is actually a good reason to get into trials in spite of what some here might think. I had been waiting for years to get into trials as a lifetime motorcyclist having had nearly 30 new bikes in my riding career. but it wasn't till the Honda showed up that I pulled the trigger and got in as a beginner buying a 2015 260. now I practice on a trials bicycle daily and have vintage tl Hondas I built for my wife so we can ride at her level. she loves her tl125. check out the pictures in Honda forum under the "happy new year" post. I could say more but I should stop here. flame on everyone

I would replace the carburetor inlet needle and seat. on two stroke engines the vibration from the engine wears the inlet needle and it starts to not control the inlet fuel perfectly and will cause a rich condition. on my arctic cat snowmobile I used to have to put new inlet needles in every season or the engine would not run right thru the second season with the worn inlet needles. it would be rich and down on power. if u inspect the inlet needle and it has any visible wear at all on the tip it is bad. the wear is actually not the tip but a ring around the tip where the needle sits on the seat.

there should be a stopper ring or a c clip visible. and the bolt is supposed to be m6x8. I think the clip has been lost and the upper spring seat has been staked into place.

the idle mixture screw will have no effect because the engine is running rich from the main jet bleeding a small amount of fuel. when u pull the throttle u move the needle out of the main jet. and the engine runs on a combination of the idle circuit and the main circuit. when the throttle is released the needle jet has to fully plug the main jet or the engine will display all the symptoms u are talking about. because its running partly on the main with the needle jet not positively held u can never tune the carb.

have u pulled the slide and checked that the needle is held from moving up. I think u are getting extra fuel not air causing the run on

the fluid in the clutch hose has broken down at the slave cylinder. if u look thru the inspection windows for the brake and the clutch u will notice the clutch is murky and u cant see thru the inspection window because the clutch side heats up and kills the dot 4 brake fluid. and u loose hydraulic pressure to open the clutch adequately the transmission gets notchy and hard to shift and find neutral because the clutch is dragging. my 4rt did this at around the first month of playing in the backyard. u have to use a brake bleed tool attached at the clutch slave bleed nipple and pull fresh dot 4 thru till it comes thru clean. u will then have a clutch working better than new , the bikes are delivered with fluid already contaminated from age. I found I like to change the clutch hose fluid about every month when I'm riding a lot and that is barely enough to keep it fresh.

hello, check the slide needle to make sure it is held in place properly. if the hold down clip is missing the needle will slightly rise out of the emulsion tube allowing excess fuel to be delivered to the engine at idle and cause the engine to not return to idle quickly. the needle has to be positively held or the vacuum created at idle with the slide closed attempts to pull fuel thru the main jet and feeds the motor with excess fuel at idle.

I purchased jitsie bicycle trials parts last year when building a bicycle and the stuff was so cheap and so far out of tolerance I threw them away , I believe they are selling a lot of cheap china made parts . I personally will never buy anything jitsie again.

Hello, another shot of 99's bike for the Honda fans out there, and my 250 as well, enjoy

I'm thinking back and faintly remember a fellow trailer I ride with in Michigan saying his 2016 300rr came with the racing headlight visor kit included in the box with the owners manual

the gentleman in spain with the website full of optional accessories is a really great experience to order from , I believe he was a factory team minder years ago. he hand signed a thank you note in the package and also included a collectible decal for a nice extra bit of kit to make his customers happy.

I forgot to add u have to order the graphics separately to match the year and model of bike u have