stork955

Gday, Make sure there is some small clearance between the lever and the piston in the master cylinder. This is vital. Cheers, Stork

Gday, further to the above, clean the exhaust system as well. It will need it at that age. Performance will sparkle afterwards. Cheers, Stork

Gday, yes, it sounds like fuel. I'd clean the carb and refill the tank with fresh fuel. While you're at it, check and clean the air filter as well. Cheers, Stork

Gday, Rev 3 08 top clamps fit. I have one coming for my Evo. The rev 3 clamp is a "traditional" 4 bolt style. Much cheaper than the Beta racing set. Cheers, Stork

Gday CDI's rarely give trouble, a dead short at the source coil shouldnt affect the unit either, the CDI will just see 0 volts. There are aftermarket stators that fit Techno's, dunno about Rev's. Genuine ones will probably exhibit the same fault eventually. A rewound one should be OK in the long term for you. Cheers, Stork.

Gday, mine is a slow/fast. Cheers, Stork

Gday, 18.8 meg ohms is way too high and means an open circuit. I Only have an 03 diagram but looking at that it seems there is a ground (possibly Black), a hot wire from the source coil (Possibly Red) and a hot wire from the trigger (Possibly Brown). Source coils usually run around 50 ohms but this can vary and triggers around 170 ohms. Any more or less and there are issues. Generally variations will be major and easy to spot, such as 0 ohms, or 18 meg. I would try to either trace each wire and find the actual source coil or re-measure between the 3 wires and look for figures around the ones above. There should be no 0 ohm resistances to earth (ground) which would indicate a dead short. Otherwise look for voltage outputs - around 1 volt AC for the trigger and 70 or more V AC from the source coil. See how you go and let us know what you find. Cheers, Stork

Gday Jim, foulksey is right, the stator runs 2 circuits, one for ignition and one for lighting/fan. If you have shorted the fan side it is unlikely that you have affected ignition, unless there is some dirty work afoot. If you find the stator output to the ignition you can check for a voltage output on that wire with a multimeter set to AC. You should see around 70 volts at kickover. Download an owners manual for your bike (links in the beta forum everywhere) and go from there. Cheers, Stork

Gday, what colour is the plug? And recheck for spark again, use a known good plug or proper testing device and keep them away from the plug hole. You may need a mate to help. Let us know what you find. Cheers, Stork

Gday, before doing the above make sure you have a small amount of free travel at the leverbefore it begins to push the piston. This is vital. Cheers, Stork

Gday, as mentioned above, 70:1 synthetic is good, I think the techno's were aluminium, at least my old one was, however coolant changes are needed regularly on anything, once a year is fine. Use a good quality coolant, any known brand. Change brake fluid at the same time, but dont let it run out at your peril...Run Dexron 3 in the transmission, it works well and is cheap. As far as learning to ride, tight turns are the starting point, and then basic obstacles. Balancing and hopping are advanced and Im jealous of those who can do it... Cheers, Stork.

Gday, I have one on my evo (X-Block) . I like it, it has calmed down the early part of the throttle and still lets me get full throttle easily. Suits my lack of ability quite well. The quick throttle was too much for me. Cheers, Stork

Gday, look for the cause of the pitting on the piston. Most likely cause would be ignition timing, but fuel issues could also cause this. Good news on the rod, that will save some work for you. It will also pay to check the ring end gap before final fitting as well and make sure the ports have a little chamfer on each edge. Cheers, Stork

Gday, you need to check stator output voltages on the multimeters AC range, not DC. I'd recheck that first before anything else. You should see around 50-100 volts max at say 2000 - 3000 rpm. If thats no good you need a flywheel puller and just remove the centre nut. Impact guns are good for this. Leave all other bolts/screws etc in place, they hold the magnets into the inside of the flywheel. There are aftermarket stators available for these as someone mentioned above, as well as the rewind options. Cheers, Stork

Gday, sounds like a rewind. Is the Yellow shorted to ground? Cheers, Stork

Gday, check the side clearance of the rod with some feeler gauges. You should see between around 12 - 20 thou. Someone may have the actual specs for this bike but these are a good rule of thumb. More than this means a crank rebuild, with or without up-and-down play. Cheers, Stork

Gday, Im not sure about the rear shock on the Rev 3's, however the front end is pretty similar across the range. You need to find the rebound adjustment, which will always be the little screw, and play with that. Less damping will make the suspension rebound more easily and quickly and vice versa. The adjusters are on top of the fork for the front, on only one side and I cant remember which, and on my Techno it was at the Top of the rear Shock. You will work it out, it is the one that does not affect the spring preload (not under the spring itself). Hope this makes sense. Cheers, Stork

Gday, it might pay to double check the clutch adjustment under the sprocket cover first, the procedure is in the manual. Let me know if you dont have one. After that, Dexron 3 spec is fine, it is the "common garden variety" ATF used in many automatics from the 60's onwards. Pretty much any brand is OK too, although go with a known brand, Castrol, Shell, BP, etc. High spec stuff is not necessary as the bike transmission is understressed compared to an Auto in a car. Its also the cheapest! Cheers, Stork

Gday, as Tony said, check first. Pop the rings (one by one) into the bore and square them using the top of the piston. Keep them away from the ports to prevent damage. Dont use any force. You should have roughly 4 thou per inch of bore (0.1 mm per 25 mm of bore), a bit more is not a problem. You should check this every time you are fitting rings to anything. Cheers, Stork

Gday Fray, have a look at http://www.trials.com.au. That might get you started. Cheers, Stork

Ok, if the plug looks good maybe it is as simple as a mixture screw adjustment - it can make the bike hard to get through the transition between idle circuit and needle. That may well be what you are experiencing, lets hope so eh! Cheers, Stork

Gday Eddie, I havent tried to measure them but I imagine they are around 4 inches or so, (100mm) pretty standard. I find the same thing with most bikes, I am 6'1 (1850 mm) tall. Cheers, Stork

Gday, talk to your local Car engine rebuilder/machinist. They often use a cold parts cleaning solution, safe for aluminium. Get them to soak the pipes etc in that overnight and it will be like new. I have my own tank for jobs like this, however my local guys dont charge me if they do it for me. Remove any plastic/ orings etc as they will not survive the bath. Paint also will not survive. Cheers, Stork

Gday, pull the spark plug out and have a look. What colour is it around the tip? And what are the numbers on the spark plug? It seems you have some strange things happening there. The mixture screw does not affect anything much above idle, however it can give clues. Cheers, Stork

Gday, dont worry, thats what these forums are for! Yes you can disconnect your pre-lube system. TY Trials UK make a little kit to blank off the oil pump mounting hole or you could make something yourself if you want. Its best to remove the pump totally. I also block the holes for the pipes and cables and drill a smnall drain hole in the bottom of the pump cover to keep water away. Make sure you block the inlet port for the oil system into the carb or manifold. On my 250 A I used a short 6mm panhead screw with a suitable copper washer under it to block the hole into the base of the barrel in the manifold. I run my TY's at 40:1, others may vary this. Cheers, Stork