stork955

Gday, according to my Beta parts manuals the 2 cranks have different numbers. It may pay to check with a dealer to see if the 99 crank supercedes the earlier one. The pictures look similar which means nothing of course. Which part of the crank is broken? If it is the pin, that is replaceable relatively easily. Cheers, Stork

Gday, its good that it is fixed. Seems weird that the stator repair was initially unsucessfull... that doesnt help diagnosis eh! Usually triggers fail completely or only work at higher revs. You learn something new every day:-) Merry Xmas to all, Stork

Gday, further to Feetup's post, new spokes are available from Yamaha at a reasonable price. 175's and 250's are the same. It may be easier to go with what you have. Cheers, Stork

Gday, I havent used one, but it seems good value. The gearshift issue on the 125/175 is not that easy to fix otherwise - I have done this myself... It would have been easier to just fit the new parts, and they are modified to last longer to boot. Regular greasing is the key to long life as well. Cheers, Stork

Gday, its unlikely to be a water seal. Crankshaft seals - especially the one in the gearbox side - could be a problem as mentioned above, but clean the exhaust first before worrying about those. It may well be OK and its cheaper to do the pipe! Cheers, Stork

Gday, Tony is correct with his technique, but at the moment your bike will be heavily flooded in the engine from the fuel leaking past the float valve. You need to dry off the plug, give it a few kicks with the plug out - Be careful - make sure the plug and lead are not anywhere that a spark can light the fuel/air coming out of the plug hole. It might pay to hold the kill switch in while doing this. Refit the plug and with no choke and full throttle try to start it. If that is no good after 3 or 4 kicks, remove the plug and repeat this procedure until the bike starts. Cheers, Stork

Gday Coop, that'd do it - if the choke is not sealing off it would get worse as the bike warms up. Are they a Dellorto? If so, I think they use a needle and rubber seat plunger arrangement - someone will confirm this - it may pay to check the seal is OK too, to make sure it is fully off. Cheers, Stork

Gday, does it run OK on the choke and then play up when you turn it off then? Cheers, Stork

Gday, check the chain itself while you are there. If it will lift off the sprocket (in the middle of the cam sprocket) more than about a 1/3 of its own width, a new one is in order. Hope that makes sense, Cheers, Stork

Gday, the bulb will tell you that it has fired. If the plug is fouled, and so is shorted, it wont show as it takes very little voltage to pass electricity through the short. Find the cause of the plug fouling and you have solved the problem. Black plugs are caused by too much fuel, or not enough air. Or the Wrong plug!. You are this far - keep going, you will find the trouble. Cheers, Stork

Gday, clean the entire exhaust. If you remove the front pipe from the engine you will most likely notice it has a buildup of black oily carbon in there. The entire system will be like this. Do this first before spending money on things that probably wont help it much. If it starts and runs OK the carb is clean, if it is missing at lower speeds it could either be some dirt in the pilot or a badly adjusted needle, if it is missing at higher RPM check the ignition system components. Worn Needle and Needle Jet can be an issue on a bike this old, and having the needle adjusted to the top clip will give a clue, but clean the pipe first then see how it runs. Cheers, Stork

Gday, tune it first. Make sure the ignition timing is spot on, it makes a big difference with those engines. I had one many years ago when i was much "lighter" with a powroll 150 kit and cam in a motorcross frame, and regularly blew it up (conrods, crankshafts, pistons) so you can tune them beyond what is reliable. Get it running well as it is and see how it goes for you. Cheers, Stork

Gday, or you can pack coins or washers into the spring at each coil to get it long enough to drop on, then put the stand down and the coins will fall out. Too easy. Cheers, Stork

Gday, the black fouled plug worries me. You did try a fresh one and found no difference didn't you? If not hold off on that CDI until you try the cheaper option first. The fouling on the plug will probably short to ground especially under some load (higher RPM's) and may look like a failing ignition. It is true however that failing ignition can cause the fouling but I reckon that is less likely. Try a new clean plug and see if it runs OK, even for a short time. Cheers, Stork

Gday, search in the forum here for Beta Coolant - case failures - there's heaps of info that will help you. Cheers, Stork

Gday, the only "special" tool you need for any work is a flywheel puller. You may never even need that. Anything else including the clutch is simple -just your basic metric stuff will cover that job. Square that away and you should have a trouble free time with the Techno. Cheers, Stork

Gday, how did the old plug look? (This is important - it will give a clue as to what is happening) Cheers, Stork

Gday, my money is on a fouled plug - caused by the carb or air cleaner. Or a really blocked exhaust. Check the plug and see what colour it is - there are many pictures on the net of what you should have. If its black it is either too much fuel (carb issue - needle, float needle etc - see post above), wrong spark plug - Champion N7YCC or equivalent, I think a BP7ES NGK, blocked air filter - clean and re-oil but not too much oil! If its pure white (which I doubt very much) its suffering from fuel starvation. Let us know how you get on. Cheers, Stork

Gday, it sounds awfully like fuel to me... Blocked main jet perhaps? It seems very unusual to cut out over 2000 or so. Cheers, Stork

Gday, does the bike actually cut out or just run badly? If badly - check the exhaust front to back and check the airfilter. What colour is the spark plug? If cutting out - check the plug cap and wiring. Cheers, Stork

Gday, check the exhaust front to back and check the airfilter. What colour is the spark plug? Cheers, Stork

Gday, have you measured the coil and checked the plug cap? Also double checked the loom and the kill switch? Best to do that first, CDI's rarely give trouble. Cheers, Stork

Gday, have you cleaned the front pipe? Cheers, Stork

Gday, its virtually impossible to buy a carb, bolt it on and have it go like the factory one did, unless they are pre-jetted for the application you are using it on. It sounds like you need to alter the slide cutaway if you have a big flat spot off idle. This is possible but it takes time and trial and error. After it is setup properly it will be a good thing for a long time - the modern carbs are much better than the Older Amals etc. Cheers, Stork

Gday, you'll need to know compression height - distance from the pin to the crown, where the ring locating pins are in relation to the centreline of the piston and the dimensions of the pin. After that you need to know whether you can match the skirt design to fit the ports you have. Talk to your local Pro-X aftermarket dealer, they may be able to help you out. Cheers, Stork