stork955

Gday, have a look up the end of the engine pipe first - thats a good way to see if it needs it. Any more than a very thin layer of carbon and it needs doing. If its alloy burning it may well be the easiest way. I use a cold parts cleaner that doesn't hurt metals. If its steel get it hot tanked at your local automotive machinist place. Or cut it open - that will be the most effective way to do the job. Cheers, Stork

Gday, as far as I can tell from my parts books, that Techno should have a Mikuni fitted (my 99 certainly has). I'd say someone's has been "fixing" it. See if you can get a Mikuni from a later techno and fit that. It would solve your issues in one foul swoop. Carb swaps dont work easily as there is always setting up to be done. Cheers, Stork

Gday, you could probably put one of these together yourself. I'm sure I've seen a fitting like that in a catologue for car parts somewhere and then fit whatever switch you like in it. It'd be worth a search around to see what's there. Its just a matter of finding the right diameter so it fits the hose correctly. Cheers, Stork

Gday, clean the exhaust out from front to rear. It will make a huge difference. Cheers, Stork

Gday, Id stay away from the press. Heartbreak will be the result of that. Stick with heat from the air gun and penetrating spray and sharp knocks from a hammer (not too sharp!). Get plenty of heat into it but try to stay away from the bolt itself so you are expanding the case. It will let go eventually. Cheers, Stork

Gday, none other than Phil Irving (the bloke who built the Vincent and a heap of other engines including the Seagull outboard) had a theory that the carbon in a combustion chamber would reflect some of the heat "back inside" so that may be why your engine temp is slightly higher Neo. All that aside, I would not worry as ambient temp could make that difference. Interesting to note how the bike runs now - good stuff. Cheers, Stork

He he. Stealth Techno! Stork

Gday, warm up the area around the bolt with a heat gun and spray CRC or similar (rust release spray). Knock it through with a good large punch. When reassembling apply some grease to all the bolts and threads. Cheers, Stork

Gday Neo, looks like things are looking up. Check the crank where the seal runs for damage - sometimes seals will wear a groove into their shaft and that will make sealing difficult for the new seal. You can fix this by using a speedy sleeve or if possible fitting the new seal in a different position if it has occured. As far as cleaning the bottom end out fuel would be the go as Cope said, if the mains are sealed Carb cleaner might not do the seals any good. You could get a lot using an old toothbrush in the crank etc. and rinse out well, even lifting the bike up so the fluid can run back out afterwards. Cleanliness is next to godliness! A scotchbrite pad stolen from her indoors will work well for removing gaskets, but make sure you clean all that residue out well also. Cheers, Stork

Gday, clean the carb and put fresh fuel in. Thats most likely whats happening and easy at this stage. Cheers, Stork.

Gday, yep agreed to the above - far too much oil coming in there. The base gasket does look like it has been leaking too, right in the middle where it is cleaner than the outside bits. The bore looks glazed too, a light hone would pay unless its a chrome/Nikasil type. You never want a mirror finish these days -its a sure sign of bore wear. It should have a light 60 degree crosshatching visible. Cold parts cleaner will fix the glaze but you need to repaint afterwards. If you do crank seals it will pay to strip the lot so you can clean the crankcase properly. The cleaner it is the better it will run. It would also explain some of the "blubbery" running that it has been doing. Carb cleaner will do the same job if you dont strip it. Check the side and back clearance of the ring grooves too with the new rings before re-assembly. If there is excessive wear there it will need a new piston too. I use the old rings to clean the grooves but watch the ring locating pin at the back. "N" stands for Top, so the letter goes up when fitting the new rings. The clean ring around the top of the barrel could be a coolant leak - remove the head and check the O rings out. It will pay to replace them anyway, cheap insurance. Is there a clean area on the piston corresponding to the clean barrel area? Cheers, Stork

Gday, I was thinking older pre-ECU vehicles - around the 80's, early 90's. Ones that had a thermo switch in the radiator for the fan. Have a look - http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product....=483&P=2014 Cheers, Stork

Gday, the front pipe can be hot tank cleaned if it is steel. They are on the twin shocks, dont know about the later ones. This can be done at your local automotive machinist place, they usually have this for cleaning engine blocks etc. Mufflers are repackable, if not easy to get apart they can be cut, packed and rewelded but it may well be easier to get an aftermarket one as mentioned above. Cheers, Stork

Gday Neo, It might be worth taking into your local Bursons, Repco etc and getting them to try matching it up with a car one. They must be pretty similar in function as car fans start around 98C ish (they both have pressurized systems) so its mainly finding a thread to suit. Shouldn't be too hard...(famous last words :-) Cheers, Stork

Gday, I'll just add my 2 cents... A lot of seizes are caused by too large a piston/bore clearance - the piston is cooled through the bore wall effectively by its contact with it. If the bore is too large, the piston cannot transfer its heat away and nips up. Ring gaps are only an issue if too small - rule of thumb is minimum 4 thou per inch of bore size (whatever that is in metric...) A larger ring gap is not a big problem unless its huge. When your ring gaps are up around 40 thou its a good indication of ring wear, but at that stage Im always measuring the bore to see if the piston is also worn. The best bet is always go with what the manufacturer says, if thats at all possible. Cheers, Stork

Gday, yes, you need a voltage regulator so you don't burn the fan out. They also need a rectifier which I don't think they fitted originally. I have both on mine now. I'll have a look at mine over the weekend and tell where they all go in the wiring loom. I wish there was a good quality Techno wiring diagram, does anyone have one kicking around? I might have to make myself one when I'm not bored one year... Cheers, Stork

Gday, On the Rev 3 the stop switch hooks into a White/Black wire exiting the CDI and grounds on the other side. I cant tell if the Techno's are the same, if there isnt one on yours let me know and I'll have a look at my Techno for you. Cheers, Stork.

Gday Neo, I have a Mityvac unit that I use for this stuff. You could hook up the missus' vacuum cleaner I spose, and look around for an old Inlet manifold pressure gauge like the ones that came in "tune up" kits years ago, you'd probably get one off ebay for a couple of dollars. This covers the basics. After that If I suspect a leak from a particular seal (the one under the stator particularly) I cover the area in grease and see if it stops. Have a look at - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RYCO-Vacuum-Gauge-i...#ht_2007wt_1166 and http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-in-box-52mm-Vac...#ht_1504wt_1166 You don't need mega accuracy, just a check to see if it changes. Cheers, Stork

Gday, I have cleaned a couple of Rev 3 ones with a cold parts cleaner (My version is called carbo clean, and is used for decoking pistons and barrels, cleaning carbs etc. ) It will remove paint and destroys some plastics etc but doesnt harm metal. An automotive machining place may be able to help you out with this one. Cheers, Stork

Gday, there is a machine screw down inside the end of the points cam under where the rotor goes. Undo this, and it should slide off unless the points cam is seized. Mark the notch fore the rotor on the baseplate so you don't re-assemble it 180 degrees out. Penetrating lube and heat will help if it is seized on. It also pays to mark the weights so they can go back on the right way around and keep the springs on their correct weight. Cheers, Stork

Gday, the engine needs to be split. If you are unsure of the job, pay someone to do it for you - much easier and less worry for you. Cheers, Stork

Gday, search for brake bleeding threads, there are heaps. Check your plug, it should be a coffee colour on the centre electrode. If its black, check your air filter and clean and re-oil it. Not too much oil. Try it again and see how it goes. Cheers, Stork.

Gday, you have a fouled spark plug for starters. This is probably caused by the blocked air filter - get a new one and clean out the air box - you will be getting dirt into the engine which is not a good thing. The new filter may require a light oiling, some are pre-oiled. I use an air filter spray on oil, but ATF will do the job. Remove any excess oil after - search around for air cleaner maintenance threads. The easiest thing to do next is grab a new spark plug (NY7CC champion or better a BP7ES NGK) from any automotive parts place/bike shop (cheaper from a car parts place) and check spark again -you checked it the correct way before - just be careful that the spark does not ignite any air/fuel coming out of the hole while kicking. try to keep it well away from the hole. Having an assistant might help to make it easier. If you have spark - great - put the plug in and start it up, see how it goes. If not, the most likely issue apart from poor electrical connections is the stator (It is a common problem). Check all connectors first as suggested, they must be clean and bright. Let us know how you go. Cheers, Stork

Gday, the engines are relatively unstressed in the 4RT compared to their "brothers" in the CRF. I have rebuilt quite a few of those... Regular Oil changes and other maintenance seems to be a key factor, just like with any bike. It will definately pay to check and measure the gudgeon pin as that is a weak area in that motor. I think the CRF's were meant to be replaced every 15 hours or so in the earlier bikes but this would be overkill on a trials bike as the revs are nowhere near as high and sustained. Cheers, Stork

Gday, did it still have a spark at the plug? Cheers, Stork