stork955

Gday, grease the release cam while its out. I just did that to mine and it makes a considerable difference, as well as lubing the cable which you have probably already done. Cheers, Stork

Gday - there are as many opinions as riders on this subject. For what its worth, this is what I try for - Set the spring first, this is what actually does the work. On a trials bike virtually no sag when unladen, and go for about 1/3 total travel when you are on the bike. Check sag with all damping off (compression and rebound if you have them) for the front and the back. Don't check front sag with the front brake on. After that is OK, then go for the damping, this is personal preference. Its probably best to start with everything set in the middle and go from there. Adjust only one at a time and note what you change so if you don't like it you can go back to where you were before. Remember that compression damping affects how the fork responds to a hit - exactly that - compressing the spring, and rebound affects how the spring comes back to rest - spring extending. Sometimes it can be worthwhile to ride the bike with each setting flat out to get a feel for what each can do (one at a time, and with the spring set correctly first). The most important thing is to remember that the spring does the work and the damping controls the spring after that. If the spring is wrong, changing oil weights etc will not stop it bottoming out or not moving at all when you hit that rock. HTH, Cheers, Stork

Gday, no thats it - apart from a small very fine coil of wire. They aren't designed to be pulled apart and there is nothing you can fix internally anyway. Failures usually come from the coil - internal shorts or breaking, and when they get older the magnet can lose its grunt lowering output below what is needed to trigger the CDI. Aftermarket ones are quite cheap - they are a pretty common thing these days. Cheers, Stork

Gday Graham , Im not sure if this has been covered before, but check the transfer port in the m/cyl. This is the smallest hole under the reservior inlet pipe. This was blocked on my bike causing the trouble with the brake in the first place. If this has rubbish in it they will not bleed for love or money. You may need to gently prise the rubber inlet fitting out to get at the hole, then check it with a fine wire. Remove the piston etc first. Cheers, Stork.

Around 250 ohms. No circuit to ground. Or of you like it should make around 0.7 volts AC when kicking over. Cheers, Stork

I recently went through this with the Techno. The only way it happened for me was to remove the entire system off the bike (which meant I had to let the top shock mount go) and bleed it up on the bench. I put the m/cyl in the vice at an angle that allowed the air to get up into the cylinder, Caliper low (on the floor) with its inlet pipe facing up, A syringe acting as the reservior and suspended above the m/cyl. The method I use to bleed most bike brakes is to very gently just "crack" the piston a couple of mm, say 1/8 inch and let it back out. You will see a small air bubble appear in the reservior from this. Tap on the fitting etc with the handle of a screwdriver. Repeat. Repeat. Etc. Once the m/cyl is primed up and I have a semblance of a pedal/lever only then do I bleed the caliper. Dont let it run out of fluid... Then refit the lot to the bike. I have vacuum bleeders etc and none of them worked on the Beta. HTH Cheers, Stork

Gday - Sorry - you are in trouble. The best option now is to look here - http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php# and try to find a trigger coil that looks like the one you have. They are available aftermarket but you have to match the design. They are easy to check but not now you have pulled it apart... Good luck. Cheers, Stork

Gday - I never fit a gasket with sealer or grease etc. 2 reasons - 1. The sealer/grease etc acts as a lubricant and can cause the gasket to split between the cases thus failing and 2. A lot of modern gaskets have a sealer built into them which is activated by the heat from the engine. If there is something else present (other sealer/grease etc) this doesn't work anymore and leaks. I can understand the greasing of gaskets to make them easier to release but this school of though comes from the 1920's and 30's (last century) when disassembly of parts was frequent. Things have come a long way since then and no manufacturer anywhere now recommends this. At the end of the day a gasket is cheap and it costs more to do the job twice if it leaks, so better off sticking to current practice I reckon. Modern sealants are an excellent total gasket replacement today also, for things like clutch covers etc. If money is a problem go that way. Use 3 Bond which will cause no problems down the track - everyone uses this from new (Yamaha, Suzuki, Harley, Honda etc etc etc. ) Centre gaskets must be used where they were fitted originally as they affect crank and transmission endfloat. I have never had one fail when properly prepared and I do this for a living! Long winded sorry but HTH, Cheers, Stork.

Gday - Yes, and No. Its more critical on a multi-cylinder bike. On a single it could change the balance factor of the crank/piston but not by that much. I'd fit it and not worry, it sounds like it is just about the same anyway. Make sure all your gasket surfaces are perfectly clean and dry when you re-assemble everything, that's more important. Use a household scourer pad like a scotchbrite etc. HTH, Cheers, Stork

Gday, if it doesn't need choke to start it might pay to re-check the carb settings. It could be too rich - I'd check the float level and needle for wear and position. It also might pay to clean the exhaust system, especially if the bike is a few seasons old. Cheers, Stork

Gday, you need a thing called a Speedy Sleeve which is designed to repair shaft damage like that. They are a thin Stainless sleeve which you tap over the shaft after the bearing is fitted and the seal will run on that. Obviously you need to clean up the damage first but that shouldn't worry the bearing. In Australia they are available from all bearing sellers. They come in various size ranges so you measure your shaft and then match the one you need. Easy to do and much cheaper than any other option. Cheers, Stork

Gday, Wiseco Part Number S278. This pin is 62.81 long so you may need to grind a bit off the end. Woessner Part No WP042. Same dimensions. Cheers, Stork.

Gday, Also make sure you have a good free flow of fuel through the fuel tap. Take the fuel feed pipe off the carb and run it into a bottle. You should get a solid stream of fuel that doesn't slow down or dribble. This will check the tap isn't blocked, the hose from the tank and the tank breather which runs inside the frame down to the rear wheel via a small hose. Take the front cover off around the filler and you will see what I mean. Also check there are no kinks in the fuel feed hose when its fitted to the carb. Cheers, Stork.

Gday, in no particular order, have you checked the valve clearances? What does the plug look like? Air filter clean and oiled? Cheers, Stork

Gday, there needs to be just enough oil to cover the entire filter and no more - after application put the filter in a clean rag and give it a good squeeze. You dont want oil dripping out of it, just enough to leave your finger "damp" if you touch the filter. Hope that makes sense. If you still foul plugs afterwards its time to look in the carb - any issues here will most likely be either float level, wear in the needle and needle jet that it runs in or incorrect settings - needle circlip in the wrong position. The Idle mixture screw may contribute but minimally as it is really only effective at idle speed. Cheers, Stork

Gday, in theory they should but in practice they might not. I wouldn't use WD40 near any brake parts as it contains petroleum stuff, which will hurt the rubber seals long term. If you want to try cleaning pistons without removing them (not a bad idea actually) just use some detergent and a toothbrush. I do this before fitting new pads on pistons that are out to remove any rubbish before pushing the piston back in for the new pads.

Gday, If you have freeplay at the lever it would most likely be a seizing piston. Double check the piston in the master cylinder returns fully to the circlip with some free travel first though. That may save a heap of angst when you go to re-bleed the bloody thing after a rebuild... If the pistons seem free (check before pulling them right out) it may also be a bit of rubbish blocking the tiny transfer port in the master cylinder. The only way to get into that is to dismantle the master cylinder and blow it clear with an air line. Good luck. Cheers, Stork

Gday, the safest way if you dont have a press is to cut the outer guide part off the bearing, then grind the race as close as you can to the stem without touching it. In most cases the bearing inner will now fall off. Worst case is a few light taps with a drift and off it comes. Most importantly is to repack the new ones correctly - it is not enough to wipe grease around the outside as most do, you need to push grease into the bearing between the rollers and the race by "wiping" the bearing into a palm full of grease. Do this until you see grease appear at the other side, then move around slightly and repeat - do this until the whole bearing is lubed all the way around. Its messy and harder to describe than to do but it will ensure long life from your new bearings. I also like to put a good glob of grease above the lower bearing to help keep water out of it as well. As for grease - I just use a good disc brake wheel bearing type. When refitting the new lower bearing find a tube or similar that fits over the stem but inside the diameter of the race so you don't hit the cage or rollers. I often use the old race as it fits but will come back off afterwards! HTH, Cheers, Stork

Gday, before pulling the carb apart check the air filter! Clean and oiled with all excess squeezed out in a clean rag. Fit the correct plug immediately. It sounds like someone has been chasing this issue before. Cheers, Stork.

Gday, ATF should be fine in the Beta. It is what I use in mine. Cheers, Stork

Gday Neo, Hunters products make it, they are nearby me in Tassie. Try this link, http://www.apchem.com.au/HTML/Industrial/A...ngine.html#8770 which I just found via a quick google. They have a similar product at the bottom of the page. Cheers, Stork

Gday, that sounds like someone has been fiddling. VM's only ever had the 3 hoses - 2 fuel bowl vents and an overflow from the bowl at the bottom. If that extra hose goes into the main air bleed someone has definitely been playing with it. Does the bike run OK? Cheers, Stork

Gday Neo, heres a thing - are you sure its running lean when it plays up? I reckon do what Cope says and if it plays up have a good look at the plug, (start with a clean one to get a good base point). It may be overly rich. I was thinking of this on the weekend with another Beta in our club - its just a little bit "flat" and its rider told me he has the needle fully down (circlip in the top groove). Needle jet and Jet needle wear methinks. Not saying your bike is like this but there may be over-richness contributing here. Cheers, Stork

If it held 32 psi it must be OK. Maybe though the leak (if it has one) doesn't happen until its hot. It might pay to get it real hot and repeat the test, although it will take a bit of time to set up it still may reveal something. Worth a try anyway. Cheers, Stork

Gday Neo, 3-5 psi is plenty. It should hold a vacuum (if you can do that) for around 15 minutes or more also. Id just use a bicycle pump. Remember to block off the exhaust port and the inlet manifold securely too. You may find caps off spray cans, deodorants etc will plug the holes nicely. Soapy water brushed on with your missus' pastry brush will help find the leaks. Don't get caught using her indoors' kitchen gear. Take the flywheel and stator off too so you can get at the crank seal on the maggy side. Mark the location of the stator before removal! Good luck. I'm itching to see how it goes. Stork