stork955

I think my 270 Techno just uses a 3-legged bolt puller but it has been a while since I pulled mine off. Most use a similar type, screws into the flywheel centre. Available on the internet for not much from many places as well as plenty of bike shops. Of course there are many variations, I have a set of about 15 different sizes. If you use the 3-legged type careful you dont screw the bolts in too far as they can touch the stator and damage the coils... HTH, Cheers, Stork

Make sure the exhaust system is clean! and practice. Its the best performance modification for any bike (says me who could do with about 10 years solid practice...) Cheers, Stork

Gday, Check the air filter! Fuel/Oil should be 80:1 IIRC (4% Semi Synthetic). Cheers, Stork

Gday, you can short the 2 wires to the sensor together. That will check the fan itself and all its wiring if it runs OK. If you suspect the sensor you can drop it in a pot on the stove with a multimeter hooked up to it. It should show continuity when the water temp gets up around boiling. Cheers, Stork

Gday - It can help if the caliper is higher than the master cylinder. Rotate it as well to try and get any trapped air out (air always goes up). Do all this with the cap off the master cylinder reservoir to help the m/cyl prime between pumps. Make sure there is free play between the pushrod from the pedal and the m/cyl piston when it is at rest - this is absolutely vital. Go VERY slowly - take your time - quick pumps just emulsify the fluid and make it harder still. Your pads sound worn past the limit at under 1 mm (unless you meant 3 or 4 mm which is OK), if you are doing this with the caliper off put a bit of wood or something flat between the pads to simulate the disc surface and give the pads something to push against. Dont let the m/cyl run out of fluid or you will have to start again from the beginning. HTH, Good Luck, Cheers, Stork

Gday, further to all above, make sure there is some small amount of clearance between the actuating rod from the pedal and the caliper piston when it is all fitted up. This is critical! Cheers, Stork

Gday, my Techno rear has had a tube in it for over 3 years, no problems, apart from a valve cap failure... Mind you I ride the back end of C grade so Im not that hard on the bike. You still need to cover the spokes up with a rim band or tape etc. Cheers, Stork

Gday, it shouldnt worry it in the steamer I would think, but why dont you use some Throttle Body/Carb cleaner from an aerosol can? (Available from any automotive parts seller) That stuff is designed for the job. Make sure you remove plastic bits first like the floats etc. and you can stick the little tube up all the small orifices and make sure they are really clean and open. I always take a can in my toolbox for those "moments in the field". HTH, Cheers, Stork.

Gday, because it has sat for so long it would also pay to change coolant and clean the spark plug. Fresh fuel absolutely, and check the air cleaner while you are at it. Lastly make sure nothing has made the muffler into their house with a stick etc. After that you should be OK to go. HTH, Cheers, Stork

Gday, sometimes this will happen when you have an air leak in the exhaust system too. Easy to check before you remove the carb. Cheers, Stork

Gday. Back that adjuster off! You must always have clearance between it and the m/cylinder piston. What happens is this - The m/cyl has 2 holes in it, one is tiny and is called the transfer port. The other is large and is the main supply port between the reservoir and the actual cylinder. As the piston moves forward in the bore it closes the transfer port with the primary seal (the "front" one). The the supply port remains open behind the secondary seal (rear seal). Then pressure is generated and the brakes apply. If the adjuster is wound in it generally closes the transfer port which should be open while the brakes are "at rest". This is to allow fluid to easily pass between the cylinder and reservoir when the brakes heat up and the fluid expands, or to allow fluid to enter the system to compensate for pad wear. The fluid normally passes backwards over the primary seal from the supply port when the piston is released. A one way type of system if you like. If the transfer port is closed continually the amount of fluid in the system cannot change as pads wear or heat is generated, and the master cylinder will never self-prime. Usually one of two things happens next - either the lever goes spongy, or the brakes self apply. Neither is good. So - back off the adjuster until there is a small amount of clearance, say 0.5 mm, gently pump the brakes a few times while checking fluid levels - dont let it run out! You may find the brakes return on their own. If you have adjusted this to fix another problem in your brakes back it out again and go looking for the real problem. Hope this makes sense, Cheers, Stork.

Have a look at the plug - it is the window into the engine. Check a website such as NGK etc. and they will have a plug reading guide there - compare to yours and see what you have. If there is a carb fault you will find it this way. HTH, Cheers, Stork.

Gday, I have what I think is an 01 Rev 3 wiring diagram and it doesnt show all the stator wiring. What I can work out is - Red to Black - (one coil) should be either the lighting or most likely the Ignition coil - test between these wires and one of them to the frame. (disconnected from any other wiring first!) Yellow to Brown (one coil) looks like the lighting coil, test as above Plain Black should be a ground, no resistance to the frame - possible problem area! There may be 2 black wires, one from a coil which also may be grounded on the stator plate. I imagine that the remaining wires are the trigger. (Black/White and White) Test between each wire, should be no ground and about 200 ohms. It might pay to remove the stator and physically trace each wire to see where it goes so we can get a bit accurate here. The manual and wiring diagram is poor at best and incomplete so not a lot of help. If you do this use a proper flywheel extractor, the cost will far outweigh the trouble you can give yourself by not using one! Cheers, Stork.

Gday, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns is about right for Mikuni's on 2 strokes. 2 turns will lean the idle out a bit too much. ( This is an Air screw) HTH, Cheers, Stork

Gday, you dont need a hot start kit. You can do the same thing by holding the throttle open just a crack (when its hot of course...). All those things do is allow a little extra fresh air into the manifold to lean the mixture slightly. The throttle does the same job, lets in a little extra air and leans it out slightly. This is most needed when the bike has sat for a minute or two, like when you are waiting to go into a section with the engine off. HTH, Cheers, Stork.

Gday, I often start bleeding bike brakes by just cracking the lever slowly and gently many times, only a few millimeters. This helps prime the m/cyl and gets the process started. This may work if the bike has been upside down for a bit too and has a spongy feel afterwards. Easy, no tools and may get you sorted to continue riding for the day. Just a thought, Cheers, Stork

Gday, I run a Scottoiler on my Tiger. 50 000km on the orig chain - good stuff. what about putting the delivery system just behind the front sprocket? My mate did that with his Multistrada and it seems to work nicely. It would keep the gubbins away from the rocks. Cheers, Stork.

No worries Bob, that will be the go. Use 3 Bond, its expensive but the best stuff by far. Also sold at Yamaha dealers as "Yamabond". Use the Grey "Case Sealant" type. Cheers, Stork.

And do you have a good lever (firm and "normal" ) sometimes? Stork

Gday, Im no Fantic expert but - You could probably seal it externally with "3 Bond" and save the hassle of removing the cover. Clean it very well first with Brake cleaner or similar. There will be a gasket behind the cover, so plan on that if you do replace it. Is there a chance you can measure the sight glass and then compare to say one from a kawasaki. Most of these things are built like an oil seal on the outside and so are similar in dimension to source a replacement. A Rubber plug wouldn't be a good choice as the oil will perish it and you would end up with a leak bigger than what you have now. HTH, Cheers, Stork

Gday Neo, find the leak first! Wash it down well with degreaser and ride a little bit till you find the actual location of the leak. (Use Talcum if neccessary as Alan said above) Then have a good look at it to see what's going on. If you can avoid splitting the cases it will be better for you! "3 Bond" is the only sealant to use, available from a Bursons Auto Parts near you. Use they Grey Case Sealant. It will work even if you apply it to the outside of the case at the leak point. Cheers, Stork

Theres no real way of testing CDI's apart from substitution with a known good one. Its unlikely to be the culprit although we are talking Italian electrics here (no offence intended). I dont think the rectifier would affect the ignition system, although it will definately affect the cooling fan. It must be fitted for that to work. Further checks to the actual ignition coil are in order, test the primary side (the single wire from the CDI and ground) it should be around 3 ohms. The secondary side (stick one probe into the plug cap and the other to the primary wire) should be something like 10 000 ohms - 16 000 (10 - 16 K) and without the plug cap about 6000 ohms - 10 000 ohms IIRC. Obviously major differences are an issue here. It is not unknown for the plug cap to fail. I have seen CDI's fail because a resistor type plug was specified but not used, pretty rare however. Double check all the electrical connections everywhere as described above. See how this goes, Cheers, Stork.

I have wound the odd source coil before. The more you can get on them the merrier. Triggers are a different kettle of fish. I suspect they are reliable as it seems that most Beta stators are fixable so the source coil is the next item on the list. Use the same gauge and get as much on as you can. It wont hurt anything. Good luck! Cheers, Stork.

Yep. You will have to work out exactly which wires do what as the wiring diagram in the owners manual is not too specific, but we have a lighting coil, a source coil (for the ignition) and a crank trigger for ignition (2 of them on my Techno). The ignition source coil will look "individual" i.e. there will only be one coil that looks like it. The lighting coils are just that - many, going virtually all around the stator and all connected together ( 5 on my Techno) . The trigger (or 2) are encased in black plastic, are smaller and often have little metal posts sticking out of them. The source coil should measure roughly between 20 to 200 ohms. Any less (0 - 2 ohms ish) and they are shorted, any more (100 000 ohms +) and they are open circuit somewhere. They should not have a circuit to ground. Someone may have the actual specs for our Betas. This is a good ballpark figure though. The actual output measured with an AC voltmeter should be a minimum of about 60 volts kicking it over. The crank trigger resistance should measure around 300 ohms. Same as above for the rest - 0 ohms and 500+ is no good) You should see AC output around 0.7 volts at kickover. Again ballpark figures but if there is a problem it will be quite different from these. Yellow and Brown appear to be for Lighting purposes on the early Rev 3, Red and Black are Source Coil? and the Trigger... I cant see it on the diagram. Post your results and this will help others in the future by perhaps building a reference for the various models and specifications for testing. HTH, Cheers, Stork

Getting somewhere now :-) Exhaust first! - dont pull the head unless you really need to. Clean the exhaust, it'll need it. Dont change your mixture screw if it runs OK (apart from what we know) as it will not affect smoking anyway. Fresh fuel might help too. Always stick to the easy stuff first. Let us know how it goes. Cheers, Stork