stork955

Gday, I cant find carb specs, however mine (99 270) is standard and runs well. I have replaced the reeds though - it would pay to check yours. The float level is set by making the float arms parallel to the carb body. Probably more important to clean the entire exhaust system. It makes a massive difference! HTH Cheers, Stork

Gday. I tend to agree, your bike is not that old so it is unlikely that the bottom end is tired, however dont rule it out. You can remove the stator and have a look at the end of the crank for a buildup of dirt/rubbish around the seal face. This often happens when a seal or bearings fail. Also have a feel of the crank to see if it has any up and down playor roughness while rotating. There should be zero. As to the hole in the cover - I dont know. Perhaps someone with a better knowledge of these bikes will chime in! It may well pay to have someone check your bike out (a local mechanic) rather than doing any long term major damage. Even if just for peace of mind. I'm just wondering if the noise you hear is pinging, this is likely if there is a buildup of carbon on the piston crown and the head. Its not hard to whip the head off and have a look. With 2 strokes, cleaner is better and excessive smoke always leads to a buildup in the combustion chamber and exhaust pipe over time. Cheers, Stork

Thats what I was thinking, but didnt want to say that yet... - check the gear oil level to see if it has dropped. Have the Sherco's got a sight glass? Cheers, Stork.

Gday - to check compression it is best done with the engine warm. Use a compression tester (a car one will do on these) in the spark plug hole and make sure the plug is in the lead and tucked well away from the open hole. Open the throttle fully and kick several times until the needle stops moving. You should see better than about 100 PSI if its OK. If thats all OK you may have bigger problems. Try to describe the noise in more detail if you can - and if it is different when hot or cold, does it alter with engine speed or load etc. Cheers, Stork.

Gday, check the compression before you pull the motor down, you may save yourself a bit of cash. Better still - Check all the easy usual things first - is the aircleaner element clean and not over-oiled? Did you accidentally add too much oil to the fuel? Has it fouled the spark plug? (Dry and Black looking). Is the exhaust system clean and free flowing? Is the carb nice and clean inside? Try these first. An 06 125 probably wont need rings yet, unless you ride it every day. HTH, Cheers, Stork

Gday - Head Gasket only if its a 4 Stroke. Otherwise water pump. Is the oil a creamy colour and consistancy? That is water. If its silvery coloured with obvious flecks you have a bearing failure. HTH, Cheers, Stork

Gday, just remove the CDI unit ( the Black box) from the bike. Everything else should be OK. Cheers, Stork.

Gday, my Dad restores Old Cars and he uses a mixture of Molasses I believe in a large tub for much of his larger work, like springs, transmission and engine components etc. I dont know anything about it, apart from the fact it is fairly slow, but safe for the base metal (Iron and Steel) and very effective. Maybe a google of that might come up with something. It sounds a lot easier and safer for larger jobs too. HTH, Cheers, Stork

Gday, run stock jets. Make sure the exhaust is properly clean, search around in here there is heaps written on it. Also, if you still have fuel leaking issues after sorting out all the above, check there is no wear on the needle itself - if you can see a " ring" worn into the taper you will need to replace this part as it will not close off properly. PS - the "upright" tang on your float arm is also bent considerably - it should be virtually at 90 degrees to the rest of the arm. This allows the flaot to drop and fill the carb correctly! Check it out as well. HTH, Cheers, Stork

Gday, Try these links - http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/pr...d-gas-tank.html Here in Aus at least you can buy commercial rust removing solutions, not that cheap however. That stuff is Phosphoric Acid. Maybe try a Google search on that. Fuel tank repair kits like "Kreem" include it as a preparation solution. HTH, Cheers, Stork

Thanks for that, that should get me underway with the rear wheel at least. Cheers, Stork.

The fan in my Techno failed, which I replaced with one from some common Japanese bike that I matched up at the wreckers. Cheap! Remember too, you can check the fan itself by powereing it up from a 12 volt battery. If it runs OK you will need to look further for the fault as mentioned above. Cheers, Stork.

Gday all, does anyone have either or both of these laying around that they could measure the length of for me please? Thanks in advance, Cheers, Stork

Gday Victor, I'm no RTL expert, but does it have electronic Ignition? If so (I see the TLR 200 from that year does), does the bike still have spark at the spark plug when it stops, and does it then only restart after a cool-down period (say around 10 - 20 minutes) or does it immediatly restart? If it doesnt restart straight away it probably has a failed Ignition Pulse coil which is situated on the outside of the flywheel. You can measure the resistance of these coils with an Ohm meter or Multi-meter and they should be around 300 OHMs. Any more or less than that and they have failed. Its a common problem on many bikes. You may find that one from other Hondas will fit it as a replacement. Good luck and let us know how you go. Cheers, Stork

Good one, that should do the trick. Any marks or corrosion on the pistons means they will need replacement - you will never stop the leaks otherwise. Polish them up well and lubricate them with some Rubber grease or Brake fluid and you should be OK. Also make sure all the corrosion scale is cleaned out from the grooves that the seals fit into. It might pay to change your front brake fluid while you're at it, this should be done evry 2 years at the most anyway. Good luck and let us know if it fixes it! Cheers, Stork.

Gday, the rear brake on my 99 Techno is fine, do you have some other issues with it? Like contaminated pads for example? Seized caliper etc. It may be easier to fix than you think. Cheers, Stork

Gday, Im not sure about the Rev 3 but you certainly do on the Techno. I Imagine its fairly similar and not a major job. It would be easy to check hoses while you are in there, if they feel "crunchy" or very soft they need replacement however mine are nearly 10 years old and still in good shape. Just a thought as well, you can check the fan by jumping 12 volts straight to it from a car battery or similar. It should spin up quite quickly and run without getting hot to touch while pushing out a fair gust of air. Might be an easy way to further check it before removal. And, is the radiator nice and clean in the fins to allow good airflow? Cheers, Stork

You will need a flywheel puller (available from any trials bike shop near you) and basic tools. Remember to replace any circlips you remove with new ones, and it would probably pay to replace the crank seals while you are in there. I think Beta sell an oil set with these in there. Bearings are standard sizes, you can get these off the shelf from any bearing supplier if you need any. Check for any roughness after cleaning them and lightly oiling. Make sure all your gasket surfaces are perfectly clean, a kitchen scouring pad like a Scotch-Brite is perfect for this. If the cases wont fit back together on assembly dont hit them with a bigger hammer - have a good look to see what is stopping them fitting up. Thats all I can think of for now, just be careful and you should be OK. HTH, Cheers, Stork

I had a fan fail on my Techno. It was a japanese one and I found a second hand replacement from my local bike wreckers from a ZZR 250 kawasaki or something like that. It might pay to check and see if you can revolve it easily by hand. If not chase up a new one. The other thing I found (with the Techno at least) was that the stator was supplying the fan with over 50 volts at times. I fitted an aftermarket regulator to keep it at 12 volts and it has been good so far (2 years now). HTH, Cheers, Stork

Gday, sounds like you might have a crook earthing point onto the frame. Look for an eye shaped terminal that is bolted to the frame up near the steering head somewhere. It should be bright and clean with no corrosion between the terminal and frame. HTH, Cheers, Stork.

Gday, this seems to be a bit common on the older Techno's. I used ATF (Automatic Trans Fluid, Dex 3) in my 99 and it helped considerably. If it doesnt work, check those steels as mentioned above. Cheers, Stork

Have a look at the spark you get with the plug out and sitting on the engine somewhere - keep it away from the plug hole though as the flame you can get is spectacular. You should see a fat blue spark across the electrodes. If that is the case all should be well and you have trouble somewhere else. Also - check the plug is clean i.e. the centre electrode is white, any fouling on it will give you grief. If unsure, get a new one to try before tearing into anything else. Cheers, Stork.

Clean the exhaust from front to back and repack the muffler. That should help. Cheers, Stork.

I've got one, and its a good bike. Look out for the usual lack of lubrication of swingarm bearings etc, change the fluids and off you go. Cheers, Stork.

Gday Graham, 1 1/2 to 2 1/4 turns. Look for the best idle basically. Turn in for more fuel (richer) out for leaner. HTH, Cheers, Stork