stork955

Gday, you still need the iron barrel to nicasil onto so there would be little gained there. Look for other ways to save weight if that is the main goal, like drilling levers and mountings where possible, removing "excess" frame lugs etc. Good luck, it should be a nice bike when you are done. Stork

Gday, I'd stick to the cast bore. Nicasil wont give any real advantage in the Ariel and sourcing the correct rings to use might be difficult. At the end of the day you could spend that money on other areas of the engine, eg the head. Cheers, Stork

Gday, some of the parts catalogues you can see online have a page with identification details. Try www.servicehonda.com or www.cmsnl.com for a start. Cheers, Stork

Gday, that is a fuel mixture issue, it's running too rich. Your Carb needs adjustment - I think there are a few threads on this already so have look through and you should find the cure. Cheers, Stork

Gday, this phenomenon is called hot soaking. Your bike goes rich for a few minutes after running as the heat from the engine evaporates fuel from the bowl. This leaves a cloud of fuel vapor in the inlet tract which causes the hot starting issues. As mentioned above, cracking the throttle slightly fixes it by leaning the mixture (you are letting more air in!). This is common and there is no cure apart from using the correct techniques as the others have mentioned. Dont be concerned that holding the throttle open will cause flooding, it doesn't and the flooding already exists. Hope that clears things up a bit. Cheers, Stork

Gday, Dot 5 is brake fluid. Dont use that in your gearbox... Why not try the Beta clutch fix in the beta section? I cant see why it wont help. Cheers, Stork

Gday, after making sure there is free travel in the pushrod, also make sure that the reservior is not full to the top when cold - so there is some room for the expanded fluid to go! Cheers, Stork

ATF is OK in forks. It is designed as a hydraulic fluid, amongst other things. If 5 weight is specified, it will firm damping up a little bit, although I dont reckon I could tell the difference. Your results may vary... Cheers, Stork

Gday, I have a 2010 250 with risers on it. I had to fit a Rev 3 top clamp to use them. Works well for me. Cheers, Stork

Gday, Poor ground? Dirty connector somewhere? Dirty switch contact? Have a look around in the loom. Cheers, Stork

Gday, its a strong possibility that you have a damaged fork. If so, a case strip is the only option. Check under the damaged cover first however, there may be some other issue. Cheers, Stork

Ok, hot off the bike - Source coil specs = 292 ohms (Blue/Red), Trigger = 313 ohms (Black White) no connection to ground. There coils are floating earth so there should be open circuit to ground. Brown wire is grounded however. There are measured at the CDI connector. This might help eliminate the stator. Cheers, Stork

Gday, Ignition timing OK? Flywheel installed properly with a good key? Just thoughts... Cheers, Stork

Gday Neil, on reflection ignore all that above...Doh - I was thinking of floating earths, which the beta wont have if only 2 wires come from the stator. Mines in the back of the shed and hard to get at to confirm, but I'll look at it on saturday when it gets prepped for sundays Trial. Stork

Gday Neil, its hard to hold the meter and kick and keep the leads in the wires etc etc etc.... You can check each stator wire to the engine for a short to earth. Find a nice clean bit of alloy to put one lead from the meter. You dont need to kick for this test, you just need to make sure there is no dead short or reduced resistance to ground. Most stators are around 2-3 ohms and triggers are around 150 ohms. Any less is no good. To get a good idea what yours should be you can remove the coil from the bike, measure between the lead and the earthing point on the coil, and then refit and see that the reading is the same. Hope this makes sense, Cheers, Stork

Gday, you could probe the power wire with a pin or similar to test, be careful to not let it short onto anything. The stator can fail, but the regulator (black box) is also known to give trouble. Cheers, Stork

Gday,If the usual things wont work it is usually a blocked transfer port. That is the tiny hole from the reservior. Cheers, Stork

Gday Neil, it does appear that the CDI is at fault, however the Stator output does seem a bit low, I would expect to see around 50+ volts from it when kicking. When running it will be around 200 V. Does it check OK to ground? (Open) Have a really close look at the terminals in the CDI and coil connectors and in the loom - corrosion there will cause a similar issue. If all that is OK try substituting another known good CDI to confirm before you spend money. Let us know how you get on. Cheers, Stork

Gday, if Compression is OK and after a new plug it still wont go, pull the flywheel off and check the woodruff key. Cheers, Stork

Gday, and further to Feetup's advice, dont forget to grease the inner lips of the seals as well - otherwise they will last as long as it took you to fit them... Cheers, Stork

For the transmission? = ATF Dex 3. Cheers, Stork

Gday, the first thing to do would be to crack the carb drain and see of there is in fact any fuel in the bowl next time it plays up. That will eliminate or confirm a supply issue - if there is none then proceed as you believe. I have no knowledge of the electric tap, but it could be an issue. Hope this helps, Cheers, Stork

Gday, master cylinders are the same - i.e. one for a road bike is the same basic design as our trials ones. The important thing is the diameter of the cylinder. They must be the same, otherwise it will alter the braking force that you apply. Bigger cylinder = less pressure, smaller cylinder = more pressure. Apart from that you have your usual details like thread size/type and style of pipe fittings, access to the cap, mounting point dimensions etc etc. Hope this helps, Cheers Stork

Gday, have you cleaned the front parts of the exhaust? If not, do this first before stripping it. There are many threads on how to do this in the beta forum here. Afterwards, check compression - dont strip it just yet until you have eliminated all the easy stuff! Cheers, Stork

Gday, stator issues are pretty common on earlier Beta's. There are aftermarket new ones available, or go for the rewind as mentioned above. Otherwise, they are a pretty good bike. For peace of mind you could go through all your various connectors and check for cleanliness and the presence of corrosion, but you will likely find this does not help. Costs nothing to look though :-) Cheers, Stork