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Gday, given that the bike has the correct plug recheck your pilot jet and passages and check the gear oil level like NZRalphy said. Crank seals will cause the smoking. It will also pay to clean the exhaust system front to rear, this wont fix the starting issues but will help the bike run like it did when new after the other issues are sorted.
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, it is unlikely that you have jet wear problems as they wont affect starting, hot or cold. There is a whole host of other issues you might have, most likely is a blocked pilot (slow) circuit but the best place to start is to pull out the the spark plug and tell us what you see (colour, type etc) and we can go from there.
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, yes, providing you can mount it as the original and resistaqnces are similar. However - it might pay to go to your local bike shop and have a look in their aftermarket catalogues as there are heaps of coils available for many bikes and you may be able to match the correct one. Or get the original rewound which will be the best solution.
Cheers,
Stork.
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Gday, it is a bit low. This could indicate some shorted turns in the coil. A rewind or replacement is the best way to go.
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, those numbers look OK. The charging coil is mainly for the lights/fan etc so dont worry about those. From here you can assume components are OK, check the flywheel itself - a quick test is to see if it will hold a large screwdriver. Check all your connections for cleanliness and tightness. Measure each wire looking for continuity - you may need to wriggle and pull on them to make sure they are OK.
Good Luck
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, Dex 3 is fine for all bike transmissions. Cheapest, and easily avilable, even from supermarkets here in Aus.
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday - have a look through the Beta threads, there are many posts on cleaning the exhaust. Repacking the muffler is a good idea - over time all 2-strokes build up carbon and goop in the exhaust from the oil in the fuel. Getting the exhaust clean greatly affects performance. Good luck, its not hard to do.
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, there is no permanent repair. You could try filling with super glue etc but to fix it properly you need to replace the tube.
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, no, not reeds. Do what the guys said above, if it still doesnt suit, check and clean the exhaust system. After that, all you can really do is get a 290. It is highly unlikely there is a problem with the bike unless someone has been "adjusting" it. Mine is as a sharp as a tack and I have the slow throttle on it...Thats just me I guess :-)
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, it needs fresh fuel before you do anything else. Drain the old stuff completely and go from there.
Cheers,
Stork.
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Gday, just to help some others that may be having similar issues - the plug picture you showed us was fuel fouled - clean that plug up and it will do as a spare. The bike was running too rich - this was confirmed by you saying that it was OK when cold and no good at running temperature. The cause? Well, we may probably never know but it is a possibility that poor fuel/oil mix was the issue.
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, its most likely Carb related, blocked pilot circuit is the culprit. The jet and passages are tiny, you need to be careful they are really clean. Compressed air is the best way, and blow from both directions through every hole you can find to make sure its OK. Failing that, check the supply and float needle condition.
Good Luck,
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday Jon, I do. It is a bit quiet compared to here.
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, that is OK. The return part of the pump is larger than the feed, so it always trys to remove more oil than is put in by the feed side of the pump. A few air bubbles means that it is working OK, no return at all is a problem!
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, theres not much else to try, apart from checking the flywheel key hasn't sheared and moved the ignition timing. Probably worth a try. There is "wetness" on the plug after a few kicks so fuel system must be OK.
Good Luck,
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, an off idle hesitation is usually either lean pilot jet or the wrong slide cutaway. I can never remember which way to go with the slide - someone will chime in here...
Cheers,
Stork
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G'day Neo, Get it starting and idling properly first -this will effect the whole range a bit. Next get the slide cutaway right, so you can get the bike off idle -clean acceleration - then set the main jet for wide open, and finally the needle for mid range (everything else) Its no black art - its hepas of trial and error... after all of that you will probably find that it is the same as what you had before...Good luck!
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, what Max is saying is that new points come with a protective coating on them which needs to be cleaned off with solvent. Flywheels can lose their magnetism, a quick test is to see if a large screwdriver will stick and take "some" force to remove again. Check for continuity to ground at the coil, there should be none with the points open. You should have a low reading for when the points are shut -just the resistance of the source coil, around a couple of ohms as you have measured.
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, its most likely you will need the kit as the bearing runs on the pin and in the rod. If the bearing has failed it will take out those components as well.
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, go with the Morgo, I have fitted a couple on the square 4's and they are good. Otherwise Draganfly can probably sort out a refurbished Ariel pump. Stick with original valve clearances but play with the timing to your hearts content. I wish I had one myself...
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, middle box and muffler cant go in the hot tank (aluminium). You can cold tank clean them as long as the fluid is compatible with aluminium, or use the "burn" method (lots of info in the forums here). The Muffler is repackable. You will be glad you cleaned them out, it helps a lot.
Cheers,
Stork
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Hang in buddy. What goes around etc etc.
Stork
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Gday - dont go near it with an easy out. Break the easy out off and you will be replacing the caliper. Try bleeding from the banjo as mentioned, the actual repair - get the engineering guys to do it for you.
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, it sounds like you have a CDI type coil fitted, this coil does not have enough primary resistance and can increase current flow in the primary side of the ignition. You need to check the stator coil, points and condenser, it is probably where your problem lies.
Cheers,
Stork
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Gday, use Grey 3-bond for the cases. Also known as Yama bond etc. Expensive - but awesome - make sure your gasket surfaces are very clean first. A scotch pad works well.
Cheers,
Stork
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