stork955

Gday, I cant help with the ring, but a rule of thumb is that if the rod side clearance is getting over 20 thou, its time to rebuild the crank. You may be able to find an accurate specification somewhere on the net. To measure it just slip larger and larger feeler gauges in between the rod and the crank until you can no longer get one in. The largest one that fits is the side clearance. Cheers, Stork.

Gday, does it seem harder to start if it has been sitting for 5 minutes or so? Like when you are waiting in the queue before riding a section, or is it hard to start always when it is hot? Cheers, Stork

Gday -thats normal. The seals act as a return mechanism for the piston as well as sealing, so they need some "firmness". Have you got it bled yet? Cheers, Stork

Gday, if you want to lubricate any brake parts only ever use rubber grease or brake fluid. Anything else will destroy the rubber seals. Also never wash brake parts in any solvents. Hot water only. I wouldnt lube a new caliper - it already is! Cheers, Stork

Gday - is the air inlet restricted in some way? - over oiled filter for example? Your exhaust should be reasonable at this age but it might pay to have a look in there as well. Maybe repack the muffler at least. Cheers, Stork

Gday, all sag is adjusted with the spring pre-load adjuster. A lot of folks get these back-to front - in that they try to adjust sag with the damper and "feel" with the spring. Front forks - the adjuster is on top of the fork/s, rear shock the adjuster is the large ring under the spring. Cheers, Stork

Whoa! have you got an unblocked lube pipe on your carb? If so -block it now! A rubber car type cap will work, or a bit of hose with a small screw in the end. Basically you dont want any air leaking in that doesnt go threough the carb. Cheers, Stork

Gday, after doing all Dan's stuff, check the timing with a light, and if that is OK its time for a decoke. Generally just the head and the piston crown will do. Also clean the exhaust, its also due. (That wont help pinging though). Cheers, Stork

Gday, its probably the stator. Check wiring loom for any damage (outside chance) but most likely that is the issue. There is heaps of info -search the Beta forum. You are right - a sheared key will still give a spark, just at the wrong time. Cheers, Stork

Gday -it wont be rings. That will give you no compression. Oily black looking plug means too much oil, a dry lookinh black plug is fuel. Plug fouling in a 2 stroke is - 1. Wrong Plug 2. Too much oil - 70 to 1 in the Techno. 3. Too rich fuel mixture - Air Cleaner blocked, float level wrong, worn needle and needle jet (the ones under the slide) or someone "fixing" it in the past -wrong jetting. Go with standard settings. 4. Leaking Crank seal on the gearbox side - your trans. oil level will drop over a period of time as the engine sucks oil through. Check it in that order. Clean the exhaust anyway, front to back. Cheers, Stork

Gday John, resistor caps increase secondary ignition coil resistance and can cause coil and CDI failures when used on things that were not designed for them in the first place. Cheers, Stork

Gday, clean the exhaust system front to rear. If the internals were well coked up your exhaust will be as well and so cant breath. The bike is over 10 years old so it needs it anyway. Your carb and timing sounds right at this point however someone has been "fixing it" so it may pay to check they have not changed jets from standard -it seems rich too especially if it needs no choke to start. 100-400 meters above sea level will make no difference, you will see more change in atmospheric pressure from hot to cold days... Double check timingwith a timing light to confirm if you wish. Idle mixture screw will not effect full throttle, 1.5 turns is pretty close for a techno. Fuel/oil should be 70:1. Keep us posted! Cheers, Stork.

Gday, use a Rev 3 top yoke from a 2008. Cheapest and easiest by far. ( $170 aus for the yoke and bar clamps as my poor memory goes) Then just use standard bar risers. The Rev 3 yoke is a little higher naturally than the Evo so factor this in when deciding how high to go. Cheers, Stork

Gday John, these early Suzuki CDI's are all similar in operation. Connecting the wires as per colour coding should produce a result. You can check your stator coils (they are the most likely to fail in the entire system anyway). I have no actual specs, even for my PE's. Using rule of thumb you should see around a couple of ohms between the R/W and B/R wires. The same or slightly less between R/W and B/W. You should see the sum of each previous test between B/W amd B/R. B/W should be zero to ground (no resistance to the stator plate or some good earth point on the motor. ) Test again with the B/Y disconnected -this is the kill switch - to check the entire system. The actual ignition coil should read around 2 ohms across the primary side to ground and around 5000 ohms across the secondary side (between the primary terminal and the plug cap). It shouldnt have a resistor plug cap, if it does remove this and fit a normal one, and recheck. Also, double check all connectors and check continuity of all your wires between each component. They can fail under the insulation and still look OK from the outside. Hope this might help, -Just found some specs for you from a PE owners manual - R/W to B/W - "Several hundred Ohms", B/R to R/W - "several ten ohms". Cheers, Stork.

Gday, timing will be majorly wrong for trials with the RM unit. All sorts of problems - the RL motor is way different too so there may be engine damage down the track also. My parts cross reference says the RL had a unique stator/magneto/CDI unit, obviously set up for trials. I guess the closest unit would be from an early TS 250 or similar, with tamer curves to suit. The flywheel is probably heavier on the RL also. The Beamish's probably used their own ignition but I have no idea about that really. Good luck! Cheers, Stork

Gday, does the clutch master cylinder piston return fully to the circlip? If not this will block the port and make back bleeding impossible. It also may be blocked with rubbish inside. Have a good look in this area first. Cheers, Stork

Gday, 126 cc in each leg. Cheers, Stork

Gday feetup, most bike engines are like that as you know. A quick example - Honda XR 400 max piston to bore clearance = 0.004 inch (0.10 mm). Similar engine in that it is air cooled, Cast Sleeve in an alloy barrell. Most pistons in use these days use struts cast in to control expansion, and are cam ground so the piston expands into a perfect (reasonably anyway) circle. God knows what boat engines are made from... Bogwheel - Also, I just remembered, it is important to check your ring end clearances as well before fitting up. Rule of thumb is 4 thou per inch of bore size. Use the piston crown to set the ring square into the bore and watch out for the ports. Too much is better than not enough. You can carefully file the end as needed but be gentle as rings can break easily. I set them in a vice with soft jaws and go slowly. Cheers, Stork

Gday, a dry looking plug means too much fuel from somewhere. Check - air filter, float level, carb needle and needle jet. Also check you are using the correct plug. Cheers, Stork

Gday, it depends whether the plug is black and "wet" looking, or "Dry" looking. If wet - too much oil in the fuel, if dry - too rich fuel. For fuel - check air filter, float level and needle position/wear. The mixture screw will only affect idle mixture, not the full range as everyone seems to believe... The UK guys seem to run a 5 plug also. Cheers, Stork

Gday, if the piston you are using is a wiseco or similar, it will come with an instruction sheet specifying bore clearance. 2 thou is pretty right on the money as a rule of thumb. Living in Aus wont make any difference apart from the rest of the world building their engines upside-down in comparison to us. A larger piston wont necessarily need a larger clearance - my ship engineer mate uses similar specs on the big boat motors he works on (that make horsepower in the thousands...)Also very important is to chamfer the ports as Jon mentioned. I do this with a small file. This prevents the rings from catching in the edge of the port and is possibly more important than getting the exact clearance to within 1/2 a thou. Cheers, Stork

Gday, if it wont back bleed you have either a blocked transfer port in the master cylinder (the very small hole closest to the inner end of the m/c), or something is preventing the piston in the m/c from fully returning to the circlip. This will also block off the transfer port. It also pays to remove and check the bleeder nipple is not blocked, especially if it missing the rubber cap. You will only get swollen seals if you have put oil in a brake fluid system or vice versa. As far as I know Sherco's dont use oil, only brake fluid. Cheers, Stork

Gday, you should also check rod side clearance by measuring with feeler gauges at the big end). This is usually more informative. Rule of thumb is that getting towards 20 thou is too much - check the specs though to be sure. Before any of that it might be worth while decoking the bike first - remove carbon from the head and piston crown, clean the barrell and the exhaust pipe. You could check your rod stuff at the same time. That may be all you need to do. Cheers, Stork

Gday, bore clearance is one of those things people get confused about. Often too much clearance will cause a nip-up as the added clearance does not allow the piston to transfer heat to the bore wall. The piston relies on this close tolerance as the only other way to pass heat on is through the rings which are pretty thin by comparison and by radiation into the combustion chamber, which is pretty ineffectual. The best bet is to go with the manufacturers specs every time. 1 1/2 thou is pretty normal, 4 thou is getting pretty large and will probably be a bit slappy when cold. Cheers, Stork

Gday, go with Jon. No sealer - these gaskets aready have a compound impregnated in them which is activated by heat. Using sealer can lead to the gasket sliding out or breaking when the cases are torqued up. They must be perfectly clean and dry for assembly. Make sure there are no nicks or scratches in the gasket surfaces. Use a green scoth pad or similar to clean all traces of the old gasket off and then some solvent to degrease thouroughly. You will not get any leaks this way. Cheers, Stork.