johnnyjazz

Thank you so much as always for such knowledgeable help! New OKO carb it is! i'll put the TK in the box along with all the other stuff ive been replacing on the bike

Hello again friends and greetings from NY. Hope you are all well! sorry to be such a noob...but i was hoping if someone with more expertise and experience would tell me if my slide is worn past the point of no return and needs to be replaced? bike seems to run ok but trying to give it as much TLC as possible while its in my custody! i recall 'feetupfun' saying the TK carby was really awesome and when working as intended is hard to beat, though if the the slide is worn it can run rich. however, im looking at $50 on eebs for a new slide but can get a whole new OKO carb from mid atlantic trials for $100 so not sure which my best option would be.. any ideas/opinions? and also, in my parts manual it says my slide is a #3 but the only one i can find online is a #2.5. would this matter much? many thanks always, johnny

ah! yes of course thanks tony...choke = more fuel not air. my bad. and does that mean if the manual says a #114 main jet when the bike ran the oil pump from new then premix would require like what a 116 or 118 jet or something? this is all new to me jetting and stuff... but exciting. thanks so much for your help and input

wowsers guys, you are all the best! coming here is like going to school for me so thank you senor feetupfun, thank you always for such valuable chunks of knowledge and experience. i totally understand now how the choke would help cool the engine by letting in more air. however, after much trial and error, at your recommendation i stuck with the original 12/53 gearing and just working on super slow stuff. trials all the way! i have the carby set to all the correct specs as are in my manual, 114 main, clip position 4 etc. she's running a beaut now after replacing that o-ring, i feel so lucky and pleased to have her in my care for a while. Trials is so great and just as in music, the slowest stuff is the hardest and most challenging. im utterly rubbish mind you, but getting better in the empty parking lots and industrial estates around Brooklyn! the cops haven't been best pleased at times, but having it all street legal w/ insurance etc really helps. but wow, good to know potentially with right jetting and gearing a ty250 motor could do 80mph and one question, hypothetically, if i were to be riding on a highway at 60mph what size main jet would i need? bigger yeah to let more fuel through? and presumably at higher speeds 40/1 is a much better choice than 50/1 pre mix? not that i'd run her like that, but great to know just in case... really inspired to be learning so much about something new. thanks again to all. best wishes, johnny

sorry to revive an old thread...hope thats ok! but 80 mph!! really?? you kiddin?....im lucky to get 40-45 out of mine, tops!!! (w/14-53) though interesting you talk of the choke as an 'enrichment valve'. does that really work like a booster switch or something at high speeds? i'm curious also when you say you could never overheat the ty250a motor...can you rev the absolute beejezus out of the thing? im just worried about blowing the engine in case i got the pre mix wrong!...(.im at about 45.1....) thanks for any advice, johnny

Thank you Section swept! great advice

Thanks again feetup fun for all the help. The O ring i meant is not the air screw but rather for the screw that holds the needle jet/main nozzle in place. i believe this being worn (as it is) can cause running rich, but im pleased to know to diagnose wear on the needle and needle jet too. Can't find any new needles on eebs with part #434-14336-00 for the TK, are there any other ones that fit? that said, it seems by the time i replace any TK parts it might be more efficacious to get a new carb altogether? if that's the case would i go for a mikuni 26mm yeah? or is the oko carb from mid atlantic trials any good? thoughts and opinions as always, gratefully received.

hi scifi, i got the metric (mm) set but they are all skinny. i need one like a dougnut. i think ive found some on eebs for a few $ so i'll take a gamble...but i realised i gotta change it as im running rich and im pretty certain its that! (again thanks to this awesome forum) btw, totally noob question so please excuse my ignorance...but in my manual it says the clip on the needle needs to be in position 4. Does one measure from the top so the clip is one notch from the bottom or vice versa with it being one notch from the top? many thanks always

Pm sent great links too, thanks!

Thanks again friends! methinks i have enough on my plate with my TY project anyway (and keeping the wife appeased) The ad never stated the model so i was just guessing it was a 247 from my (very) limited knowledge of montys, but as always i learn so much here! he did say it was original though...if anyone else is interested i can post the ad? best wishes from brooklyn

sorry, slightly off topic from original post, but could anyone tell me the size or generic part# of the o-ring i need for the needle jet set screw in the TK carb bowl. i got an 'automotive o-ring set' but none fit properly and the part# on my yamaha list brings up nothing on ebay. many thanks!

Thank you so much!! this forum is just the best for guidance and knowledge. really appreciated and costly mistake avoided!

Hello Friends, new to Montesa forum. Guy selling this locally, says its all original. seems like a pretty good price? (compared to what i paid for my minty TY) any advice or guidance gratefully received! are these bikes easy for parts/spares, anything i should look for specific to these bikes if i go to see it? wife certainly not happy at the thought of another bike but trying to convince her it could be an investment?. many thanks always, johnny

Thank you so much Brewtus! great advice and really appreciated. fingers crossed the crank is tight, though if i have the left side off (and have the parts already), i'm guessing i might as well do the points, condenser and coil too? i just want to try and make it nice

Thank you as always so much for your response 'feetupfun'! Thats where i'll start, with the magneto side and check play before i do anything else. so grateful to be able to receive all your knowledge and guidance. Snowy day in NYC so good excuse to be in the workshop i'm in awe of all you mechanical masterminds! have a great weekend, humbly, johnny

Thanks so much dear trials friends, your advice is, as always, invaluable. Methinks I am going to go with the if it ain't broke, don't fix it route! For now anyway. I do have all the new parts on hand and access to a workshop where everything one would need tool wise is available. i guess its all down to confidence. i changed the front fork seals with fantastic lessons from feet up fun and want to learn more about mechanics. Im thinking the only way to learn is to jump in?....though i understand fully that time spent on reconnaissance is seldom wasted (hence my coming here). @tony27 thanks always and Kia Ora! gee i miss NZ, best to john lawton please. will the bearings definitely be shot you think after 30 years? am i correct in thinking that's much more involved and you have to split the cases? @scifi thanks for awesome electrical maintenance suggestions. and @ Goudrons thanks for the great and sagacious advice! i wasn't planning on splitting the cases, but rather drilling the seals and extracting them with a drywall screw....well, that's if i can zip up my man suit and muster the enthusiasm, but as tony says if i should do the bearings too then i wonder if i'm getting in over my head?! as always, really appreciate your time and responses. thank you. best wishes from brooklyn.

Dear exalted shamans of mechanical knowledge and expertise, Thank you so much for all the insights and advice on this forum thus far. My little bike is coming on a treat thanks to you guys helping me learn how. So i was wondering, as the bike had been sitting for 30 years, is it fair to assume its a given that one must change the crank seals as a matter of course? They don't seem to be leaking and i did 'feetupfun's suggestion of measuring the oil and none had gone from the right side (i think my oily plug is telling me to be a little more sparing with the pre mix ratios)-but is it inevitable that its upcoming and i should muster up the courage and determination to get them done? I've found some great posts on the forum about how to do it but any 'top tips' would be welcome as i am a newbie to this stuff and don't want to mess it up. also, even though the bike runs fine should i do the points/condenser/ignition too or is it a case of if it ain't broke don't fix it? they have been on the bike perhaps for 30 years too. and finally ( i do hope i'm not outstaying my welcome) is it a big deal i noticed i don't have any vent pipes coming of my carb? does it make a big difference or is it ok just to leave it? i enclose a pic of the mellow machine before when i got it and where i'm at now with it, and again thank you so much for all your help as you guys have walked me through alot of stuff thus far! sending best vibes and bright moments from the land of trumptonian dystopia! johnny

Hola friends, just wanted to say thanks y'all for all the invaluable help. i came here a mechanically ignorant novice, and thanks to your help and guidance feel i have put together a pretty good bike. here's a pic of before and after...having sat 30yrs...now back in action on the streets (and empty lots) of NYC! i made it road legal, sorted electrics, changed fork seals, clutch seal, new cables, removed oil pump, fabricated bash plate, new rear shocks, new mudguards, new chain, block and sprocket, new tires, new handle bars, grips, re built carburetor, repacked and cleaned exhaust, getting pinhole leak in tank welded tomorrow...etc etc. life is good, feeling a bit puffed up all thanks to you! (esp senor feet up fun, the worlds TY mastermind). really appreciated. thank you also for the sense of community in a fractured world. best wishes from Brooklyn...

Holy Smokes! night and day feeling so much more confident to tackle this stuff and learn more....knowledge is power!! thank you from the bottom of my heart for all your help and kindness in this forum, esp senor lahey who seems the most effervescently resplendent mechanically minded TY chap this side of the galaxy!

alright dear friends (who are probably tired of me by now!)...totally the last question i promise then i will go into hibernation mode.. after fitting my new falcon shocks today i notice i have very little, if any, clearance between the spring and the chain. i can fettle it by hand to get a few mm's but if not they are touching. is this how it should be or have i messed something up? any suggestions/solutions? thank you, thank you and verily thrice fold thank you always. humbly yours, 'novice junior mechanic' johnny jazz over n out.

thanks so much Senor feetupfun! your knowledge is only exceeded by your kindness and willingness to share it. May you receive an abundance of good vibes from the universe my friend. My falcons arrived in the mail today. deepest joy. they look so nice i'm thinking i might as well go ahead and pimp my ride and get a new tank from clarke! there is every probability that i will fall off in my attempts to get better so i'll just put this one on the shelf if i ever sell the bike also, feeling pretty chuffed as having followed your advice in other threads got the fork seals out and replaced them. having the air gun indeed made it effortless. best wishes, johnny

Dear super trials friends, what are your expert thoughts on 'Caswell' tank sealer? after trying to do some research it appears its the best option there is for the pin hole seam leaks i have. is it a good choice for a steel tank. i read mr. feetupfuns advice that it's not good if you bend/ding the tank- although it was used to good affect on fiberglass tanks. i guess either that or maybe i need to get a new tank. i see clarke racing make one that will fit. is that a better idea at this stage- and retire this one as a shelf trophy? id rather pay $40 for sealer than $240 for a new tank but want to do the right thing in the long run (and also @ feetupfun those dings in the forks were at 50mm so happy days!) many thanks always for any revered guidance and encouragement...

Thank you so much my friend! i am truly in your debt for your kindness in helping us newbies learn this stuff. thank you so much for passing it on im hoping my stanchion is ok and below the 57mm mark...it looks close though. though i should think for a beginner like myself it is less imperative to get it fixed as it probably wont be facing the vicissitudes that a pro like yourself would put it through? anyways, it was a lovely afternoon in Brooklyn and i found these two spots today where no one seemed to mind me playing around. i revisited my 70s classic Don Smith 'how to ride trials' book, and was just working on going as slow as possible in 8s and trying to bunny hop a brick. i cant wait for my new falcons to come! thanks you for your recommending those too sir. so much to learn about trials skills and mechanical skills...so onward and upwards! wishing for you all a great weekend of riding and thank you for making me feel welcome in your forum...

OK, salutations once again friends, so i disassembled the top bit of the forks..tho .cor blimey.gov! that cap nut was a bit of an ordeal. got there in the end my fork springs each measured exactly around the 400mm mark and after changing the oil (from half a cup of sludgey grime) to 125cc of nice fork oil, there was a huge improvement. i did notice i am missing the the packing # 434-23163-00. is that something that i should definitely have? fork seals are still leaking too so that's the next job. however, i noticed today when i pulled down the top left gaiter the chrome seems a bit damaged. is it high enough up it doesn't matter or do i need to have the leg re chromed so i don't damage the new seal? lastly, traced the gas leak to what i think is the seam on the underside on the right. that said, it only seems to leak with a full tank of gas. i drained half of the tank and so far it hasn't leaked. im thinking of my options.... does somewhere like this look any good to you experts? does it look rubbish inside the tank or ok you think? http://www.motorcyclefueltankservices.com/about.html i enclose a few pics for your advice and guidance. humbly yours and wishing for you all a great weekend!, johnny jazz

Thank you again so much 'feet up fun' for your wisdom and kindness of sharing it. i see in the manual the fork springs should measure 400.5mm. i am hoping to get to it tomorrow so will report back my findings. i hope very much too that the leak is on the underside at the bottom. if that is the case, i see the procedure for welding it is fairly straight forward in the hands of the right person. again i'll report back my findings. still love your quote. always timely. hamlet yeah? talking about Denmark i always loved the one from that play 'There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio than are dreamt of in your philosophy' thanks again guys! great advice.